catkom3

Tidy print Sean, seems to be a lot of " stringing " on some parts might be worth your while googleing that, Do you know what speed your printing at I print at 50mms, but the Pro will go upto 180mms that would speed up your prints significantly, what it might do to belts and bearings is another thing though. Regards Joe.

Was that printed as a complete piece then hand painted James, Regards Joe.

Now your CAD savvy, it's fairly easy to sketch / print almost anything, For over 6 years I depended on Yeggi / Thingiverse etc, Now any part I need I sketch up myself and print it, Also you might be able to avoid makeing new sketch's for the slightly bigger trailer merely by re-scaling them in your slicer, Also if your making left and right sided part's if the hinges and "clasps" are at the same spaceing you can simply "mirror" them in the slicer, saves an awful lot of sketching. Regards Joe.

Looking good there Sean, would it not be possible to sketch up the part for the depth wheel, ?? Regards Joe.

Ha ha, been there done that, and at school. Regards Joe.

I've been working on another project and just finished printing the second door for this artic trailer never done anything like this before, But the holes printed in the door and it's surround are 1mm in diameter, The one on the left is straight off the printer and the one on the right has been tidied up a bit, with a length of stainless steel wire pushed through, That's a common dress makers pin 0.7ml diameter and 26ml long never dreamt it would work but it does. Zoom right in for fine details. Regards Joe

LED's Phil, I reckon the Massey 8S would have looked better if it had those as well. Regards Joe.

I've just read this in Farm Machinery Journal and thought I'd share the info on here' https://www.tivysideadvertiser.co.uk/news/19926341.red-diesel-will-not-permitted-tractor-runs-april/ Regards Joe.

Could be the colour, I've found in the past issues with red and yellow, but black white silver and even wood effect print really great, wonder if it might have anything to do with the pigment used to colour the pigment, ?? Regards Joe.

Just a thought, But when you level your bed do you do it hot or cold, doing it cold means when the bed and nozzle heat up they expand altering the gap between them, ? Regards Joe.

It might be an idea to try a test print that will show up any issues Sean, This guy Chep makes some great prints as test's, The video is very informative too. Regards Joe. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3235018/files

I think if you tried white flexible TPU the colour and texture might just be spot on, might be a little shiney but can't say as never used white, Regards Joe.

Nice to see tyre pressure systems on new releases. Regards Joe

Your CAD skill's are better than mine I very much doubt you would need to manipulate any files in your slicer, When I watch a tutorial if I don't get it first time forget it, My short term memory was never very good, Part of the reason I never read books, By the time I get to the end of a paragraph I've forgotten what happened at the start, Regards Joe.

Guessed you'd have sussed that, have you tried useing Cura to manipulate / fabricate parts, The things you can do with that is just amazeing. Regards Joe.

Ha ha, Snap, Did the very same with my Swift. Regards Joe.

Very nicely done Sean, printing could be tricky though. Regards Joe.

That's just weird, most folk with printers won't use raft's claiming they are useless, I'm beginning to think there may be some form of conflict between Ios and Cura software, Have you tried sketching anything useing different CAD software and printing that direct to Cura, ?? Regards Joe.

I've been thinking about this a lot Sean, the only other thing I can think of is the initial layer height check both your slicer mine is set at 0.3 if the one that doesn't stick is less than that there won't be enough "squish" to form a decent bed for the other layers to stick to, Regards Joe.

Just been looking around to try and solve your issues Sean, I reckon if you make this your next print it will show which temperature is best suited to printing your blue PLA, You notice there are 10 different levels on this tower your printer will print each level at a different temperature which will let you see exactly which temperature you need, https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3912855/files Regards Joe.

The software that came with mine was Creality as well, The + will be higher tech possibly with different settings that's what the + will signify, Might be worth while cross referencing the temperature settings in your slicer compared to the temperature marked on the box or the label on the spool. Regards Joe.

Little bit of confusion creeping in here I think Sean, There is only one Cura, which is the property of Ultimaker, 4 Years ago when I got my first proper 3D printer I was useing Ultimaker Cura version 3.6.1, I am now useing 4.11.0, and I think you are most likely useing 4.13.1 which I reckon could be giving you some grief as that version is a bit to advanced for me at this stage, I reckon if you uninstall 4.13.1 and then download and install 4.11.0 that should help, In Cura 4.11.0 there is only a choice of eSun PLA+ Black Grey Purple and White, Is your filament PLA + that little plus could be quite significant, Try doing a test print, Use the wee Benchy boat I popped up the other day and change your setting to Generic PLA, See how that goes if it prints that torture test Benchy it'll print anything, Regards Joe.

Just had a thought Sean, What type of filament have you selected, In my photo you will see I have selected eMotionTech PETG, yours should be either Generic PLA if you are useing PLA or specifically the brand you are useing, Cura has all these specification assigned to all the different filaments out there if your useing the wrong one your bed and nozzle temperatures will be wrong, hence the print not sticking.That's a drop down box by the way multiple filament choices in there. Regards Joe

Sorry Sean bit of a mystery to me, Could you message me the stl files and I can try printing them myself, Regards Joe

No worries Gavin a lot of prints require a brim especially tal thin prints and a little glue never goes wrong. Regards Joe.