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nice work, the nose highs not noticable i must say, but the easiest way to deal with it is file the top of the mount of the front axel,  you will know what i mean once removed,pin still sits ok after for steering then

really must finish my uh based one sometime to :D :D

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Looking good.

Must try myself also one time.

But as you lads al can see it can take about a year when i finish some models :-[ (but what the heck they get finished :P:D )

There where a litle 500 serie's in Nordhörn and i thougt maybe in the future i buy a real one ;D

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very nice , does the floorpan fit easily ?

might give one a go one day :)

The floor pan needs a bit of cutting. You have basically got to cut the whole of the floor out, and shave a bit off the depth under the mudguards. It's a lot easier if you can keep the rear bulkhead in place. You will however need to cut a slot for the Britains linkage lever. I did put in a bit of plastic strut behind the drivers seat as a second bulkhead as i was using a reproduction floor pan that was threatening to snap.

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http://www.farmtoysforum.com/index.php?option=com_wrapper&view=wrapper&Itemid=27

Did the above as a 250 from a 362. Not sure how close i got ?

I would think a 362 is a bit "heavy" for a 230/240.

The one i keep looking at to make out of a 362 is a 420.

By the way the 250 now has proper turf tyes on the back, looks a lot better.

Sorry, mucked the link up and can't work out why ? Check out "More things to do with an MF 362"

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

just had another look see & think next week may see me trying one of these , do i take it that the chassis also needs taking down where the bonnet sits ? as looks a bit wide for the 595 bonnet & think i'll try to shorten the wheelbase while i'm at it

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just had another look see & think next week may see me trying one of these , do i take it that the chassis also needs taking down where the bonnet sits ? as looks a bit wide for the 595 bonnet & think i'll try to shorten the wheelbase while i'm at it

Yes, you do need to grid some width of the engine block area, the area in front of the dash, and the front of the chassis.

I also cut the weight block off to make the length about right. The bonnet fits about right once the weight block has been removed.

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well managed to finally build my 550 & yer right thats almost the whole floor cut out ! & it certainly gets flimsy when the cut into the rear is made , i had a practice on an old one first & snapped it ! also i couldn't find a good 2wd axle so had to sort of rebuild / rehash one & it sort of works .

as well as letting the front sit lower as could grind the pin ring at the top side , when reversed it shortens the wheelbase , looks a bit pigs ear but paint will improve it's looks !

have also got to find something other than the red cap to fit to hold the axle in place

hope you dont mind the pictures just click on them to enlarge

post-211-132639167498_thumb.jpg

post-211-132639167503_thumb.jpg

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You have made a nice tidy job of that.

The front axel works well, and the whole thing has good proportions.

thanks , can i ask where the decals are from ?

i saw nigel & seans 550 biult a while back but wasn't much to choose between them i thought the 135 & 362 chassis worked well

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