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Choosing a replacement for the County+ Weathered Krone Optimat


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Hi everyone,

 

As some of you know I like to weather some of my models but after doing many a 1:32 for both my collection and some customers I felt like having a go at a 1:16 scale! So I picked up a UH County 754 and got to work using a few old techniques and also a few new ones. If you prefer your models kept in a box look away now  ;D

 

First was some research and google has a ton of old County pics of some very sorry looking machines, I want to go for the look of one that was well worn but not ready for the scrap heap.

 

After getting the beast out the box, I set to removing the main removable parts including rear mud-guards, wheels, hydraulics, bonnet, radiator, tyres and steering column. I then used a technique on the rear mud-guards called 'chipping' which strips the paint, does a base layer, a rust layer, a layer of chipping agent, a few layers of lighter rust and then white. Once dried I then 'chipped' through the layers to get a rust finish. The bonnet and radiator were not suitable for chipping so I machined some wear and tear into certain areas, wet and dried selected parts and then used a method of hand painting a lighter blue colour then several rust colours up to the edges of the lighter blue to give the effect of deep rusting.

 

This process takes a long time as you wait for drying, and some of the enamel paints to go off. So in this time I started the laborious process of wearing the tyres which consists of hand cutting the treads individually, machine wearing the edges off and then hand sanding them to a finish, this was needed to ensure they would take weathering pigments.

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Next was a long process of weathering using paints, airbrushing, a wide range of pigments, weathering agents, chipping fluid, oil effect solution, wet look fluid, rain water effects fluid (all made by either MIG or AK Interactive- if anyone would like a list of items please ask) Weathering pigments, unlike a spray, need to be built up which takes a lot longer but offers far better results as I hope the pictures show. As I weathered I slowly put the County back together. I added a 'sponge' seat to the original, filled the air filter with a rusty solution and rusted chains to the front weight. Once you have the raw weathering done it is then time for finishing which I am in the process of, this bring out more subtle effects and takes away the harsh colours as seen in some of the pics.

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Thanks everyone, your comments are much appreciated. A small update, I created a 'roll bar' out a plastruct and sprayed it to the design of one I used to see all the time on a little massey 135 when I was a kid. Just need to drill the rear axles for fitment and of course weather it so it doesn't look out of place  ;D Just final weathering and finishing to do....

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wow great weathering! slightly of topic but in one of your first pics you have a Humbrol paint can holding up the axle  and I noticed it had some dried paint built up around the lid, I have that same problem and was wondering if you have found a way of preventing the paint inside the can to dry out? Sorry for the random question. ;D 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I'd be inclined to add greedy boards to the little Krone to make it a better match for the 754.

 

For loading, I think the Fordsone Major with loader would be the dogs'.

 

 

Another option would be uber greedy boards in the form of silage sides. I have a vague memory from pre-historic times when tipping trailers were just starting to be used and muck spreaders were often called into action to cart away from those new fangled silage harvesters.

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