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MF weeks 6 tonne trailer

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In the old numbering system for the dropside / double dropside weeks MF trailers like in Pauls first pic,

MF21 = 3.5 ton

MF22 = 4.5 ton

MF23 = 5 ton

then not sure about the 6 and 8 ton if they were the 24 and 25,  but 

MF 26 = 10 ton


not sure if the Monocoque bodied trailers like Pauls second pic took the same system of numbering 

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Guest tedroosevelt21

When ferguson merged with massey ferguson   the original ferguson 3 ton dropside tipping trailer became the matey ferguson 17 they then introduced the massey ferguson 18 5 ton tipping trailer with double sides all in metal both were rubbery owen/sankey. Then came the Weeks/Massey ferguson  tie up the (20) range  both convertible /dropside and monocoque bodies all in red with yellow wheel centres i believe these were imperial ton versions and not tonne . The massey ferguson 200 had black chassis and were tonne capacity.

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4 hours ago, Tractorman810 said:

only brouchure i have is the more modern one,mf 200 dropside and mono versions, so have all the sizes ect ,just not the older  model numbers, 

Hi tractorman does it have any dimensions in it as I think they may be the same? Would be most grateful if you could send me a photo of it


Many thanks 


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  • 3 months later...

Right, I have sourced a 25m brochure so about to embark on my first ever scratch build!!! Open to any tips or hints that some of you more experienced makers may have on the way :-) 

first question is what are recommendations regarding glues. Construction will be largely styrene plasticard whatever you call it. Is superglue ok to use? Don't see any reason why not but i see people talking of plastic weld? 

Thoughts please 


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16 minutes ago, MadMark said:

Super glue will go brittle overtime and I find can be a bit of a pig gluing bits together and leave glue marks, if you do use super glue I would use the gel rather than liquid.

Thanks Mark. Yes used the gel before. So what would you use out of choice? 

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34 minutes ago, alf aphid said:

Thanks Mark. Yes used the gel before. So what would you use out of choice? 

Personally,I would never use Superglue on plasticard,you need to use a "poly cement" to "weld" the pieces together,"melt" to form a joint,

Either Revell contacta https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=REVELL+CONTACTA&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&client=firefox-b&gfe_rd=cr&ei=UM9gWZX_MeaE8QeI26LYCg#q=REVELL+CONTACTA&tbm=shop

Or Humbrol liquid poly, https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=HUMBROL+Poly+Cement&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&client=firefox-b&gfe_rd=cr&ei=o89gWfyvDeaE8QeI26LYCg#q=HUMBROL+Poly+Cement&tbm=shop

Or indeed EMA plastic weld, https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=EMA+plastic+weld&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&client=firefox-b&gfe_rd=cr&ei=39BgWfzaFq3VXofUp8AK#q=EMA+plastic+weld&tbm=shop



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18 minutes ago, Tractorman810 said:

i would use plasti weld to be honest, does exactly that,forms a weld like join, preffered use on styren card and plast strut  by me and i suspect a good few other scratch builders

Thanks tractorman which brand is that? Had a quick look and nothing immediately obvious 


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the last link joe posted or what marks linked nice and easy to work with, allows a bit of movement when setting to get things right. just do not use it on really thin plastic as it will just melt it into a mess 

i did a 6 ton monocoque bodied single axel way back,swapable back doors and  removable silage tops ,the silage bit has a tight-on door rather than a steel/mesh one, but i cant find a pic right now,still in the box in the loft, will try and get a pic sometime 

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5 hours ago, Stabliofarmer said:

Looking good so far Alf, though you may find a thinner sheet of plasticard easier to use for you're next build. I largely use 0.5mm going up to 1mm if the strength is needed.

Ah thank you. Interesting point you make there about the thickness. I was wondering what to use, I opted for this size as I was concerned about the strength and didn't want it to flex. But I will bare that in mind for next time thank you. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

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