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MF weeks 6 tonne trailer


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1 minute ago, Fenside MF said:

yep pauls pics shows what i was explaining perfectly gonna be fiddly in 32 scale size them latches.

You’d be surprised what you could do mate with pateince and planning. I think it looks more intricate and difficult than it is mate, it looks like the best way of replicating that mechanism to me. 

If you look at it in separate pieces rather than the whole thing it’s not gonna be to bad to make. 

 I guess it’s a latch shape cut out of brass or plastruct, a 1mm whole in the middle of the latch for it to pivot on using a 1mm brass pin.

Then you could just tack the chain to the latch with some glue. Then fit the bar to the chassis that holds the chain. And finally tack the other end of the chain to the bar on the chassis. 

Sorry if I sounded like a know it all... that’s how I’d make it :);) 

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4 hours ago, alf aphid said:

Ah thank you, so weeks had that set up too, right top swinger it is!! 

Just to manage expectation, Andy is infinitely more skilled than I! I will be lucky if it hinges let alone has a release mechanism ! 

 

Thanks for all your assistance’s 

No bother Alistair, glad to be a help, i still hunting for the other brochure that you wanted for the taskers, but not managed to put my hands on it yet.....

 

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that latch systems possible in 32nd i recon, small chains are easy enough, cheap neckless or similar, only thing i would say is try and shape the latch its self out of a thin bit of metal, at that size and thinness  plasti card will warp and mis shape with paint , plus it will be a tad stronger for you to mount it as you will need to drill two holes in it ,plasti card will just fall apart , a small brass dome head nail will hold it in place and allow movement 

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2 hours ago, Cheshire Farm Models said:

You’d be surprised what you could do mate with pateince and planning. I think it looks more intricate and difficult than it is mate, it looks like the best way of replicating that mechanism to me. 

If you look at it in separate pieces rather than the whole thing it’s not gonna be to bad to make. 

 I guess it’s a latch shape cut out of brass or plastruct, a 1mm whole in the middle of the latch for it to pivot on using a 1mm brass pin.

Then you could just tack the chain to the latch with some glue. Then fit the bar to the chassis that holds the chain. And finally tack the other end of the chain to the bar on the chassis. 

Sorry if I sounded like a know it all... that’s how I’d make it :);) 

Yes all do’able I’m sure. This is my first scratch build so I’m still very much learning. I may give it a go. I do want to be able to “use” the trailers with grain doors too, will see!!

1 hour ago, Valley Axe Man said:

No bother Alistair, glad to be a help, i still hunting for the other brochure that you wanted for the taskers, but not managed to put my hands on it yet.....

 

Don’t worry Paul thanks all the same, super6 Paul uploaded one for me. The build has started !! See here, needs re naming now as title is a little misleading 

 

1 hour ago, Cheshire Farm Models said:

Taskers fertispread thingy ? 

 

All sorted sorted now thanks as above 

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Call me lazy, but I’ve decided on these to have fixed rear doors, as for purpose of display it doesn’t matter. For me to get them right would involve serious rework and I’d rather spend my time on some other projects. I also run the risk of creating something ugly in the quest to make functional, appearance to me is more important. I’ve learned what I need to plan for on my next trailer!  

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Looking very smart indeed! Personally, I agree with your decision Alistair. I've often found that it is almost impossible to replicate some working features in 1:32 without them either being so fragile that they break if you touch them, or looking massively over scaled, a good example being the hinges on the opening cab doors and windows on some manufacturers models. As you say, for display it's better to look right than be fully functioning but then end up looking more like a kiddies toy. 

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36 minutes ago, 844john said:

Looking very smart indeed! Personally, I agree with your decision Alistair. I've often found that it is almost impossible to replicate some working features in 1:32 without them either being so fragile that they break if you touch them, or looking massively over scaled, a good example being the hinges on the opening cab doors and windows on some manufacturers models. As you say, for display it's better to look right than be fully functioning but then end up looking more like a kiddies toy. 

Thank you John, That is absolutely true, and I would, with my limited experience have fallen straight in to that category. It’s all a learning curve! 

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  • 1 month later...

Well managed to steal an evening tonight and after much debate I decided that I should put a tipping ram on, ok not 100% authentic I know. But it works and I think looks ok! Ready for some paint tomorrow hopefully :D 

is this the slowest scratchbuild on here ;)

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Well im trying to get it painted. I bought some kramp acrylic paint, but am really struggling to get finish. It’s almost like I’ve sprayed in damp conditions. Now I think on it I think I’ve got fed up with kramp paint before. Anyone any experiences or advise please?  Have attached pic. Not sure if it’s clear. 

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Bloody kramp paint, bought some to respray a tractor (real one) luckily only got the doors painted as the primer reacted with the too coat  and went like crazy paving so had to be stripped and re done. 

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39 minutes ago, mb86 said:

Bloody kramp paint, bought some to respray a tractor (real one) luckily only got the doors painted as the primer reacted with the too coat  and went like crazy paving so had to be stripped and re done. 

I must admit that’s what I'm beginning to think. I’m hardly a seasoned painter, but I’d say I have reasonable experience with usually reasonably good outcome! Might buy some Halfords bright red for the other one! 

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Had this happen before with acrylic paint. Don’t worry. Get it on as flat as you can regardless to it drying dull... then give it about 4 coats of clear lacquer start first few light then give it a heavy coat to bring out the deep shine and remove the “orange peel” look from the paint. That’s how I tackled the bonnet on the 3645 I did. I used ambersil Massey red and it came out very dull and the lacquer brought the shine out nicely. Can’t really tell from the pic but gave off a nice reflection. 

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what primer did you use? dont use acrylic myself but looks like  your holding  spray too far away to get that finish,maybe try rubbing back with fine wet dry paper before next coat and spray closer.paint reactions are usually more severe than that,then clear lacquer to seal it and give nice high gloss finish.

think its more down to your technique off holding far away to avoid paint runs. mind you  do you use clear lacquer with acrylic as i only use cellulose sprays becareful as too many coats can lose detail onshapes  mouldings etc,kill it with paint is the term.

 

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i have had similar in the past , pretty sure it was using a cheaper primer than normal, luckly it was only one coat on, just as a basing coat really, and it went  pretty much straight away, managed to wipe a fair bit off, then let it dry and sanded the rest down , since then i have always used halfords primer, normally their filler primer just to loose any small scratches etc i have missed . never had an issue since no matter whis top coat paint i use 

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On 5/25/2018 at 10:43 PM, mb86 said:

Do you think you will be able to paint over it once it hardens or will you have to strip it and start again? Not sure how you would with plastruct. 

I hope not, like you say with plastruct not very easy, the paint looks fine when you apply but dries with that mat look. Weirdly the tailgate is super glossy. 

 

On 5/25/2018 at 11:03 PM, Cheshire Farm Models said:

Had this happen before with acrylic paint. Don’t worry. Get it on as flat as you can regardless to it drying dull... then give it about 4 coats of clear lacquer start first few light then give it a heavy coat to bring out the deep shine and remove the “orange peel” look from the paint. That’s how I tackled the bonnet on the 3645 I did. I used ambersil Massey red and it came out very dull and the lacquer brought the shine out nicely. Can’t really tell from the pic but gave off a nice reflection. 

 

 

Thanks Sam, I’ve never had to use laquer before. You think it will be safe with the acrylic paint?  I’m going to try another blow over and see what happens. Very frustrating having got all this way. Paint isn’t something I usually struggle with. Acrylic is banned from now in. 

 

On 5/25/2018 at 11:43 PM, Fenside MF said:

what primer did you use? dont use acrylic myself but looks like  your holding  spray too far away to get that finish,maybe try rubbing back with fine wet dry paper before next coat and spray closer.paint reactions are usually more severe than that,then clear lacquer to seal it and give nice high gloss finish.

think its more down to your technique off holding far away to avoid paint runs. mind you  do you use clear lacquer with acrylic as i only use cellulose sprays becareful as too many coats can lose detail onshapes  mouldings etc,kill it with paint is the term.

 

Halfords primer,which I always use. I’m 99% sure it’s not a reaction between the two. Regarding technique, I’m doing nothing differently to normal so not even sure I can take the blame on that one.that was my concern on the laquer too ! It’s one thing if it’s a metal model that can just be chucked back in the nitromors, but this isn’t quite so easy!! 

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4 hours ago, mb86 said:

Excellent alistair, paint has turned out well, very neat and tidy.

Thanks Martin, it’s not great paintwise, but better than some Britains have chucked out over the years !!  Won’t be buying kramp acrylic again unless there are no other options! 

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