dalethecaptain Posted July 21, 2017 Share Posted July 21, 2017 I picked up a Marge TW25 gen 1 recently and it had a bit of a dodgy finish to one of the front wheels, so it was ripe for a bit of conversion. I have always wanted a Gen 1 TW30 but all the models out there are not quite anatomically correct. The Marge TW has an independent oil filter, which can be removed with a little gentle caressing, so I can add the external side mounted oil cooler and distribution rail the older twin filter F401 type engine block featured (later generations had single high efficiency oil filter and internal oil cooler core/relief valve at the gear pump I believe). It also needed the correct front axle with the offset differential, and having seen Ian's work on the TW30 with the Hydrocut Giraffe, I thought I would have a go at building the correct axle to complete the model. I always recalled TW30's with bigger boots than the standard machine, so I ordered a set of large wheels from Farmodels.nl which I intend to modify further when I get back to work and have the use of a lathe, more to follow on that part. First job is getting the wheels and rear track set up correctly. This meant using brass spacer rings between the wheel and chassis, which will allow me to make a mock up for modifying the wheels at a later date. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dalethecaptain Posted July 21, 2017 Author Share Posted July 21, 2017 Its quite a wide beast, but the front axle will need to be shortened slightly to more accurately match the real thing. The Marge front axle is pretty good to start with, it was possible to rotate the front hubs so that the linkage is facing forwards, after removing the front mud guards of course. Its necessary to grind off the spigot on the standard marge hub, this will get painted later after the fit up is done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Palmer Posted July 21, 2017 Share Posted July 21, 2017 nice start Dale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1/32 farmer Posted July 21, 2017 Share Posted July 21, 2017 its going to look good Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dalethecaptain Posted July 21, 2017 Author Share Posted July 21, 2017 I also wanted the front wheels to rotate and sit without too much play, so I pressed a 4mm brass tube insert into the wheel to act as bushing, and then used a 3mm machine screw to carry the wheel through the hub. With a few washers and some thread lock it sits well with the weight of the model and rotates very smooth.Farm models wheels are top quality machined pieces, so they feel and look the part. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dalethecaptain Posted July 21, 2017 Author Share Posted July 21, 2017 24 minutes ago, Paul Palmer said: nice start Dale 24 minutes ago, 1/32 farmer said: its going to look good Thanks guys, I have spent a week planning before I took to the tools, having seen everyones conversion work on the forum, its still difficult to estimate the amount of time that needs to go in, and I'm a project manager in my day job.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dalethecaptain Posted July 21, 2017 Author Share Posted July 21, 2017 The Farm models wheels are very tight and foul on underside of the Q cab models, Henry has a guide for fitting them so they don't foul but it means stripping the whole model, and lightly filing the casting in way of the gearbox, and removing 2mm front the bonnet. The locating pins for the marker reflectors also had to be ground off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mb86 Posted July 21, 2017 Share Posted July 21, 2017 Looking good so far dale. I'm looking forward to seeing this progress. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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