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Whats on your workbench???


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2 hours ago, WillTEF20 said:

Many thanks James, rightly or wrongly I don’t use plasticweld anymore as like you say it can make the plastic very dirty! I also find it deforms the plastic depending on the application. I’ve been using ‘Gorilla’ super glue for 5-6 years now and haven’t had any issues with things breaking or degrading so that’s what I’ve stuck with !

 

2 hours ago, Janval said:

I've been doing the same, those screws would come in handy though. I have different sizes of regular m1 nuts and bolts which are great to use as well for different things.

Also agree with the plastic weld stuff, when I started I used Tamiya which gives off nasty gases as well.. Loctite superglue is my go to glue now, better to have glued fingers rather than breathing toxic gases!

Interesting, I have to say I prefer plastiweld for its instant strong bond, but I have been using the blue cap gorilla glue for any acrylic plastic work, and it is very good stuff, but feels slightly less controllable.

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19 minutes ago, Stabliofarmer said:

 

 

Interesting, I have to say I prefer plastiweld for its instant strong bond, but I have been using the blue cap gorilla glue for any acrylic plastic work, and it is very good stuff, but feels slightly less controllable.

Might be differences between brands, the Tamiya ones (with the green cap) took a while to to set and was very unstable until that happened. The Loctite glue sets pretty much instantly and is odourless + I get it cheaper and locally.

The one glue I have been wanting to try though is the one in a blue bottle with a yellow cap and a "needle" to dispense it with (name eludes me at the moment). Could be handy for the small stuff.

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4 minutes ago, Janval said:

Might be differences between brands, the Tamiya ones (with the green cap) took a while to to set and was very unstable until that happened. The Loctite glue sets pretty much instantly and is odourless + I get it cheaper and locally.

The one glue I have been wanting to try though is the one in a blue bottle with a yellow cap and a "needle" to dispense it with (name eludes me at the moment). Could be handy for the small stuff.

It's Revell Contacta Jan, I use it quite a lot actually, it seems to work in a similar way to plasweld in that it melts the plastic slightly to make a very strong bond, but it isn't quite as instant and takes several hours to fully set. Like you say, it's handy for smaller parts, but having said that i still probably use plasweld the most. And yes, my plastic does get dirty, but I blame that on my mucky hands, and anyway you don't see it once it's painted!;)

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plasweld does get mucky, but it sands off ok, i do tend to use super glue on fine parts now, especially working bits like door hinges and alikes as i found plasweld does deform thinner stuff, takes a bit of care to not overload the glue and block holes, but it can be re drilled after if required.

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8 minutes ago, 844john said:

It's Revell Contacta Jan, I use it quite a lot actually, it seems to work in a similar way to plasweld in that it melts the plastic slightly to make a very strong bond, but it isn't quite as instant and takes several hours to fully set. Like you say, it's handy for smaller parts, but having said that i still probably use plasweld the most. And yes, my plastic does get dirty, but I blame that on my mucky hands, and anyway you don't see it once it's painted!;)

That's the one! The regular superglue bottles dispenses a bit too much sometimes. My superglued bits are getting dirty as well, especially with dust from sanding.. but I always sand off any pencilmarks or dusty bits anyway.
 

2 minutes ago, Tractorman810 said:

plasweld does get mucky, but it sands off ok, i do tend to use super glue on fine parts now, especially working bits like door hinges and alikes as i found plasweld does deform thinner stuff, takes a bit of care to not overload the glue and block holes, but it can be re drilled after if required.

I've had that happen as well with intricate parts, but the toxic fumes were the reason I did the swap in the first place. Gave me headaches even with a face mask and spread into other rooms quickly. Wasn't very pleasant. 

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10 hours ago, Janval said:
 

I've had that happen as well with intricate parts, but the toxic fumes were the reason I did the swap in the first place. Gave me headaches even with a face mask and spread into other rooms quickly. Wasn't very pleasant. 

To be honest the smell doesnt bother me, that said i only use it in the shed and unless its really cold  theres always a window open or the doors ajar so prob helps, plus anything in progress is out of little ones hands, or the wifes tidying obsession 

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Just a quick mock up to see whether it's looking the part. Not decided if I'm going to mount the crane on the tractor or to make a trailer to mount it on. Ideally I would have liked to have both, so might do several of these once I've gone through all the adjustments.DSC_0005.thumb.jpg.1dd706e0c87190df3f9a98b5a62b23e7.jpgDSC_0006.thumb.jpg.5484b59f5ce3d718c5001a7bec02dc66.jpg

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1 hour ago, Janval said:

Just a quick mock up to see whether it's looking the part. Not decided if I'm going to mount the crane on the tractor or to make a trailer to mount it on. Ideally I would have liked to have both, so might do several of these once I've gone through all the adjustments.DSC_0005.thumb.jpg.1dd706e0c87190df3f9a98b5a62b23e7.jpgDSC_0006.thumb.jpg.5484b59f5ce3d718c5001a7bec02dc66.jpg

looking good, why. not  make it a 3 point mounted one ? tow eye on the back for the log trailer .  be a bit different i guess then 

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16 minutes ago, Tractorman810 said:

looking good, why. not  make it a 3 point mounted one ? tow eye on the back for the log trailer .  be a bit different i guess then 

That could work, have some time to think about it though as I'm about to tackle perhaps the most complicated part of it now. When painted up it should still be able to move in all directions as long as my plan works.

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  • 2 weeks later...

started the glazing today,in between the silo, still needs some fine adjustments as its pushing the door tops out,so they dont close that well any more, and i have also managed to run out of some glue to fix them,so stopped for now in case i loose the bits . also fitted the indicator pods, seen loads with and without, so went with, 

3D57D73D-3D6B-4B3F-9630-149D3DE9FA25.jpeg

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56 minutes ago, smithy said:

we had fords with the indicators on the mudguards, they was ok but in the dark they sort of blinded you as they flashed though the windows , we fixed them up on the roof so they stuck out like a pair of ears :D  

i often wondered why, when they fitted the larger rear brake light bit,they didn't merge them like a lot of the other stuff that was round then. 

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41 minutes ago, Tractorman810 said:

i often wondered why, when they fitted the larger rear brake light bit,they didn't merge them like a lot of the other stuff that was round then. 

Then they’d need to put one on the front Sean, the butler ones were just one each side that were seen from front, back and side

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1 hour ago, mb86 said:

Then they’d need to put one on the front Sean, the butler ones were just one each side that were seen from front, back and side

true, didnt think of that,although you could have easily swapped the small cab marker lights with an indicator maybe. can just see smithys rolling along with big “ears” flashing away on the cab top 

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