Fang

The start of the tracks.

I'll have to get a Molotow marker and give that a go I think

After failing to source suitable lights to use on my models I decided to have a go at making some myself.  Pretty pleased with how these turned out.  Had trouble getting the camera to get a decent photo.

A couple of better photos

The latest (and hopefully final version!) of the main engine/gearbox/rear axle centre housing for the 6600.

Ford 5000 skid unit with reduction box.  Behind is a pre-Force 5000 for another project, and the 6600 for the Highlander.

13 hours ago, Stabliofarmer said:

Great bit of casting there Andy, is there any particular reason you're casting all the links rather than printing a batch, I assume the master pattern is printed?

 

 

Yes printing the pattern.  I'm not overly keen on the 3d printed resin, it's rather brittle, whereas the cast resin seems a bit more flexible before it breaks.  Also I have my printer set up for fine detail prints which means it takes forever to print anything, whereas I can print one pattern, and knock out a batch of links every 20 mins using castings.  I'm using cast resin for the main parts, and small high detail parts like the water pump, alternator or dynamo, etc will be 3d printed.  

Experimental resin casting of track links, didn't come out too bad I thought.  Need to make a bigger mould to make several at once.

On 1/4/2024 at 8:21 PM, super6 said:

The 6 cylinder ones used some County components, bonnet and fuel tank being the obvious parts but I don't doubt they used other items.

I'm also drawing up 6-cyl County's, so it was my intention to do a 6-cyl version as well at some point.  The engine, tinwork, etc was all from County (the engine being to County spec with County sump, etc).  But the rear axle trumpets were the original Ford parts.  All the Barth trenchers were also fitted Howard-County reduction boxes.  An alternative to the tracked machine was a wheeled 4-cyl or 6-cyl which used a complete County as base unit. 

On 12/24/2023 at 2:33 PM, Anderson Agri said:

Look forward to seeing this. I think I have the brochure for one of these if you would like me to scan it if it's any help! 

I have a few brochures on these already but would be interested to see which one you have.

14 hours ago, ginjaninja95 said:

Out of interest have you drawings or is it off pics? The lever of detail rival's manufactures drawings 

The basic dimensions off sales literature, etc, then hours measuring actual machines, and filling in the gaps from photos.

1 hour ago, 844john said:

I agree, this looks like it's going to be an amazing build. With regards to your question James, I think it depends on what you want from a model. If your after a perfect representation of the real thing, there is no doubt in my mind that this is the way forward. However, for me, I can't help but think that, from the perspective of someone who enjoys making models, this would feel more like assembling a model kit than setting to with some styrene and a knife and making your own personal model. I have to admit that I'm in awe of the quality and accuracy that 3D printing can produce, and also the people who produce the drawings,(being a major technophobe!), but there are a lot of very talented builders out there and i still think and hope there will always be a place for a craft knife and a cutting mat 

The first thing with 3d modelling on cad is the time.  I've been at this in my spare time for about 3 years now, measuring a real machine and drawing all the parts, so unless you're doing this full time its certainly not a quick process, far quicker to get out some styrene and start building something, so there is that drawback to it.  I want to build a few other County's, so the advantage is I can use the parts on the cad for other models.

Even when modelled and 3d printed, there is still a lot of traditional model building required to complete a model.  A lot of people hand make a master part out of styrene and then cast in resin, using 3d to create the master means you can get a lot more, more accurate detail, but you still end up with a resin casting.

Another point to remember is that although you could just 3d print the complete model, I don't think it would actually be a very nice thing, and incredibly delicate.  Some parts on this model I won't be 3d printing, because they are far better made from a bit of styrene or brass.  One of the problems with 3d printing is that if you print something thin, it will tend to warp, and is very easy to break, whereas if you used styrene it would just bend.

My personal approach to this is to use 3d printing where it is required, such as masters for castings, tiny detail parts, etc, but if I was to build say a grain trailer, then I think you'd be better with some styrene or brass, maybe use a 3d print to create a master for the mould for the tyres.

I think 3d printing certainly has its place, and is the way forward, but its not going to replace traditional model building completely.

Excellent models.  What resin do you use as it seems to cast quite a thin section?