Fang

The start of the tracks.

I'll have to get a Molotow marker and give that a go I think

After failing to source suitable lights to use on my models I decided to have a go at making some myself. Pretty pleased with how these turned out. Had trouble getting the camera to get a decent photo.

A couple of better photos

The latest (and hopefully final version!) of the main engine/gearbox/rear axle centre housing for the 6600.

Ford 5000 skid unit with reduction box. Behind is a pre-Force 5000 for another project, and the 6600 for the Highlander.

Yes printing the pattern. I'm not overly keen on the 3d printed resin, it's rather brittle, whereas the cast resin seems a bit more flexible before it breaks. Also I have my printer set up for fine detail prints which means it takes forever to print anything, whereas I can print one pattern, and knock out a batch of links every 20 mins using castings. I'm using cast resin for the main parts, and small high detail parts like the water pump, alternator or dynamo, etc will be 3d printed.

Experimental resin casting of track links, didn't come out too bad I thought. Need to make a bigger mould to make several at once.

I'm also drawing up 6-cyl County's, so it was my intention to do a 6-cyl version as well at some point. The engine, tinwork, etc was all from County (the engine being to County spec with County sump, etc). But the rear axle trumpets were the original Ford parts. All the Barth trenchers were also fitted Howard-County reduction boxes. An alternative to the tracked machine was a wheeled 4-cyl or 6-cyl which used a complete County as base unit.

I have a few brochures on these already but would be interested to see which one you have.

The basic dimensions off sales literature, etc, then hours measuring actual machines, and filling in the gaps from photos.

So nearly a year since I posted this, but have been busy all that time. I now have my own 3d printer to print my own patterns and small detail parts which is proving very useful. Every time I looked at photos I noticed details that I had missed, so I now have 5 different engines from 5000 6X to 6600, not including Ford turbo variants, 3 different gearboxes and 3 different rear axle centre housings, along with the variations on the County parts. I have done a front axle in resin, but I'm not convinced it will be strong enough so I'm going to do a brass version instead. Hopefully I'll have something looking like a tractor by the end of Christmas. And a Barth K140 should be on the way too, but I'll start a new thread for that

I've had a final play around with the CAD model, and now have the final versions of the 3d prints for the main castings. I have nearly finished all the moulds and tried a few castings, pretty pleased with the results. I glued a few of the scrap castings to see how it will look. A few more bits to sort out moulds for, and then I can start on the brass parts.

I have a batch of 3d prints so I can now for more parts, so hopefully will have something looking more like a tractor quite soon. Some of the smaller more detailed parts will have to stay as 3D prints I think. The front end details are going to be a one piece 3D print, quite pleased with how this has turned out

I've finally got round to having a go at making a mould from the 3d prints and casting in resin. This my first attempt at this. I made a simple open mould to cast these as I need to print another as I've changed a few details, but wanted to try it to see how the fine details come out. I don't think it came out too bad, a few little air bubbles, but all the details seem to be there. A few more drawings to finish and hopefully I can get the base tractor completed.

Is it better to have the protruding ring round the centre to hold the tyre on or is it not really needed?

The first thing with 3d modelling on cad is the time. I've been at this in my spare time for about 3 years now, measuring a real machine and drawing all the parts, so unless you're doing this full time its certainly not a quick process, far quicker to get out some styrene and start building something, so there is that drawback to it. I want to build a few other County's, so the advantage is I can use the parts on the cad for other models. Even when modelled and 3d printed, there is still a lot of traditional model building required to complete a model. A lot of people hand make a master part out of styrene and then cast in resin, using 3d to create the master means you can get a lot more, more accurate detail, but you still end up with a resin casting. Another point to remember is that although you could just 3d print the complete model, I don't think it would actually be a very nice thing, and incredibly delicate. Some parts on this model I won't be 3d printing, because they are far better made from a bit of styrene or brass. One of the problems with 3d printing is that if you print something thin, it will tend to warp, and is very easy to break, whereas if you used styrene it would just bend. My personal approach to this is to use 3d printing where it is required, such as masters for castings, tiny detail parts, etc, but if I was to build say a grain trailer, then I think you'd be better with some styrene or brass, maybe use a 3d print to create a master for the mould for the tyres. I think 3d printing certainly has its place, and is the way forward, but its not going to replace traditional model building completely.

A few years ago I decided to start building a model of a few James Jones converted County's, starting with a Highland Skidder. After many hours drawing I have got most of the 3d CAD model completed, and today received the first of the 3d printed parts. The intention is to build the model out of resin castings for the main parts(using the 3D prints to make the moulds), 3D printed parts for the tiny details, and some brass and plasticard.

Excellent models. What resin do you use as it seems to cast quite a thin section?