MB Trac Posted May 3, 2011 Share Posted May 3, 2011 I machined these at the weekend from brass. I am not selling them just yet as they are complex to make. Could be used on tractors or implements I reckon and are adjustable. Screw thread M1.5 x 9mm on the large one Fair bit of work in making them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MB Trac Posted May 3, 2011 Author Share Posted May 3, 2011 Hi Yes Identical. I purchased these actual ones on eBay to see if I could make them up on the CNC lathe. Really complicated and fiddly. The ones I bought on eBay are 1:43 scale so I scaled them up. Will get a pic up of them tonight. I managed to machine them exactly as the purchased ones. I managed to solder in a small brass rod into the middle of the tube to allow them to be adjusted as the hole needs to be 0.9mm in diameter for scale. I would like to make a batch of them up but I think there is just too much work in them. I attempted one with a hook at the ends but it is very difficult to machine without breaking off the eye completely or breaking the cutter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MB Trac Posted May 3, 2011 Author Share Posted May 3, 2011 Toplink Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catkom3 Posted May 3, 2011 Share Posted May 3, 2011 The one's that are available on E-bay etc are mass produced in Poland,and readily available from model shops at around £2.50 a pair,unless your cheaper than that I think I'd have second thought's, Regards Joe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MB Trac Posted May 3, 2011 Author Share Posted May 3, 2011 I have used some of them before on models and they work ok for toplinks if you buy the right size, the question is could you make them and sell them cheaper than what modelshops or ebay sellers sell them for? if so then you might be onto a winner. I was hoping the CNC would make it easier but I was well out on that one. The model shop ones are 1:35 for military or 1:43 for military models. Alot of people have asked about making some up in 1:32 so I made 3 off at the weekend but there are 6 or 7 operations and alot of setup time. Would be almost impossible to make one for less than €5 I reckon. I also machined some insulators for electricity poles which are simple to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MB Trac Posted May 3, 2011 Author Share Posted May 3, 2011 I came across these ones also http://www.sussex-model-centre.co.uk/shopexd.asp?id=20694 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrewstanford Posted May 3, 2011 Share Posted May 3, 2011 be cool if there was a nut on the thread for setting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
powerrabbit Posted May 3, 2011 Share Posted May 3, 2011 I bought a number of the larger ones from eBay a couple of years ago and these were about in scale to 1:32 tractors and do work very well. You do of course have to fabricate a clevice for the tractors hydraulic cross-shaft for them to fit on and the implement, especially the earlier Britains tractors. Gives a more realistic fit on hydraulic mounted implements and machinery and being ajustable allows you to level the implement to a more realistic and accurate position. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deere-est Posted May 7, 2011 Share Posted May 7, 2011 Popular with model ship enthsusiasts and usually referred to as turn buckles. Does anyone do them with a Cat 3 open end? That would be nice for the bigger tractors. . . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
case 1056xl mad Posted May 8, 2011 Share Posted May 8, 2011 they look prety good i might get some of ebay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Posted December 22, 2011 Share Posted December 22, 2011 Just bought some from ebay 9806pavel [table] [tr] [td] M [/td] [td] O [/td] [td] L-min [/td] [td] L-max [/td] [td] D/d [/td] [td] Ref No. [/td] [td] Price each [/td] [/tr] [tr] [td] [/td] [td] [/td] [td] [/td] [td] [/td] [td] [/td] [td] [/td] [td] [/td] [/tr] [tr] [td] M1 [/td] [td] 8 [/td] [td] 12 [/td] [td] 18 [/td] [td] 1.8 [/td] [td] #019 188 [/td] [td] £2.00 [/td] [/tr] [tr] [td] M1.4 [/td] [td] 9 [/td] [td] 15 [/td] [td] 21 [/td] [td] 2.2 [/td] [td] #019 229 [/td] [td] £2.00 [/td] [/tr] [tr] [td] M2 [/td] [td] 12 [/td] [td] 20 [/td] [td] 28 [/td] [td] 3 [/td] [td] #019 312 [/td] [td] £1.50 [/td] [/tr] [tr] [td] M2 [/td] [td] 16 [/td] [td] 24 [/td] [td] 36 [/td] [td] 3 [/td] [td] #019 316 [/td] [td] £1.50 [/td] [/tr] [tr] [td] M3 [/td] [td] 14 [/td] [td] 22 [/td] [td] 28 [/td] [td] 4 [/td] [td] #019 414 [/td] [td] £1.50 [/td] [/tr] [tr] [td] M3 [/td] [td] 18 [/td] [td] 26 [/td] [td] 40 [/td] [td] 4 [/td] [td] #019 418 [/td] [td] £1.50 [/td] [/tr] [tr] [td] M4 [/td] [td] 40 [/td] [td] 52 [/td] [td] 82 [/td] [td] 6 [/td] [td] #019 640 [/td] [td] £2.50 [/td] [/tr] [/table] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dalethecaptain Posted December 26, 2011 Share Posted December 26, 2011 I have found that the problem with a lot of realistic linkages (e.g. Schuco, Wiking) is the lack of adjustability in the top link makes posing or mounting the implement difficult. I have swapped a few top links from Weise Fendt models, which are open ended and adjustable and these work great. If you could machine some, and leave a bit of extra 'meat' on one end, I could hand file the hook end of the top link into them as required. And I would be willing to pay what it costs for your efforts because I think for those fanatics like me who have gone to the trouble of replacing the linkages (like on UH models), even though the PMA top links are ok, an adjustable one would be loads better. I did get some from a dutch guy, but the centre body of the link was a bit too bulky, and on the longer length links it did not look right. If you could copy the top links (front and rear) of the Weise Fendt 824 for example, that would be a winner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdc Posted December 26, 2011 Share Posted December 26, 2011 You can file the eye open to form a hook then if you are very pernickerty use plasticard to make the latch etc. Looks like everyone uses the same image. http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh000001.pl?REFPAGE=http%3a%2f%2fwww%2ecornwallmodelboats%2eco%2euk%2f&WD=bottlescrew&PN=rb_bottlescrews%2ehtml%23a63119188#a63119188 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.