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David Brown 990 Selectamatic


David Brown

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  • 2 weeks later...

I now have both examples, the Selectamatic and Implematic 990. Although they are both very accurate in the main there are things on both models that I can see are not quite right. The Implematic is the most accurate but this model is a 'second series' tractor that was manufactured from 1962/3 and not as UH state on the box 1961. This model had a longer wheelbase, the front casting being 2 inches longer to accommodate the front mounted 12 Volt battery, the previous model had 2 6 Volt batteries, one each side of the seat in the cross-box. Another fault is the fixing position of the sway chains on the lift arms, they were never anchored to the drawbar. Another fault is that the heavy electric battery cable from the starter motor is trailing to the rear, it should be going to the front where the battery should be. The 'High-Low' gear lever is too long also. I have not unscrewed these models from the boxes so I can't comment at the moment on the underside.

Faults on the white 990 are, no front grille securing fastener representation, radiator bonnet flap not silvered, top link clevice 90 degrees out, 'High-Low' gear lever too long, rear wheel centres should be the same as the red model, battery cable on the starter trailing the wrong direction, reflectors on mudguards too high, 12 speed decal on the grille should be six speed as there is not a 3rd gear lever on the box, toolbox mounted in the wrong position, louvre bar pressings on the sides of the bonnet nosecone too far forward. Sway chains anchorage should be under the PTO housing, not on the drawbar. Seat cushion piping should be yellow not white, no engine stop control.

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I now have both examples, the Selectamatic and Implematic 990. Although they are both very accurate in the main there are things on both models that I can see are not quite right. The Implematic is the most accurate but this model is a 'second series' tractor that was manufactured from 1962/3 and not as UH state on the box 1961. This model had a longer wheelbase, the front casting being 2 inches longer to accommodate the front mounted 12 Volt battery, the previous model had 2 6 Volt batteries, one each side of the seat in the cross-box. Another fault is the fixing position of the sway chains on the lift arms, they were never anchored to the drawbar. Another fault is that the heavy electric battery cable from the starter motor is trailing to the rear, it should be going to the front where the battery should be. The 'High-Low' gear lever is too long also. I have not unscrewed these models from the boxes so I can't comment at the moment on the underside.

Faults on the white 990 are, no front grille securing fastener representation, radiator bonnet flap not silvered, top link clevice 90 degrees out, 'High-Low' gear lever too long, rear wheel centres should be the same as the red model, battery cable on the starter trailing the wrong direction, reflectors on mudguards too high, 12 speed decal on the grille should be six speed as there is not a 3rd gear lever on the box, toolbox mounted in the wrong position, louvre bar pressings on the sides of the bonnet nosecone too far forward. Sway chains anchorage should be under the PTO housing, not on the drawbar. Seat cushion piping should be yellow not white, no engine stop control.

Just what I was looking for Tim great explanation of detail, see these things wrong put me off as I am a firm believer of if you do a replica it should be back on with detail.

As for accuracy can you recommend a detailed example of these models?

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I don't think there is a single David Brown model Oliver that is precise in detail and in whatever scale produced and in my opinion the main reason being the difficulty in replicating components exactly as they are on the real thing mainly because of the practacality of strength and build of the model, there has to be a certain amount of compramise on this. However, this does not excuse parts of the models that I described as wrong, and these parts, which can be levelled at most models especially the vintage and classics, are wrong because the real tractors that they have been replicated from have been restored with 'spurious' parts that are either not as original but have been added by the restorer. Back in the earlier years a lot of models were reproduced by using a set of blueprints and measurements from the original manufacturers of the real thing which unfortunately does not happen now so concequently there is a certain amount of 'guess work' in it so you can't really blame the modellers, if there is anyone to blame, it's the restorer of the real tractor who either does no research into what replacement parts should be fitted or just fit parts that will do just that, fit. If you are looking for a David Brown model that is as accurate as it can be, there is one exception,with the producers actually researching the real tractor and knowing what should or should not be on it then the best ones to collect are the D.B. models from Martin and Ged Leftly, G&M Originals, yes, they are quite expensive but you are paying for a model that is all hand built to an exacting standard and when you know how much time and work goes into creating these models then the price they are will come into perspective and will in the not too distant future be of greater intrinsic value as they are quite unique and very limited in production numbers. I'm afraid that you have to pay for quality.

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With prices for models as they are accuracy and build quality is the most important criteria but I think that minor inaccuracy's may be forgiven as sometimes they can, with a little care and a dab of paint here and there, be rectified. As I said previously, I bought all three models in this 'range', both 990's and the Oliver and at a very reasonable price of £50 each with no post or packing charges as I picked them up direct from my 'supplier'. That price is £8 above cost of wholesale so if you look around at the price other suppliers are selling for you'll get an idea of what their mark-up is.

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Yeah sure I am thinking I make take the plunge and get the UH Selectamatic its a model I just keep looking at, but you say the Implamatic is the better of the 2, I think I need to get to my local model stockist and see them in the flesh first.

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