james f

Looks a bit like the new fastrac 8250 with the big back wheels and all when you think about it

All of the forager drivers blow to the right here, it's safer when you want to get out etc.

Yes they do bring an extra trailer to everyfarm normally on the back of the forager.

No rake  Must take you ages?

Now why would the forager driver want to get out while filling a trailer?? ;D

As for raking, the grass is usually gouped 20ft into one swath, plus people around here tend to take heavier cuts later, so any wider and the forager couldnt cope. Wont see any action until June I expect.

what was the other more tractor like one they did on the same principle as the xylon marcus,can see it in me mind just lost the name,only just stopped doing them

Maybe your thinking of this, the Fendt EVO, much like the Xylon but with a bonnet and unequal wheels. It was developed as a prototype in the early 2000s but was subsequently axed

Why does the forager driver blow the silage to the right, most I've seen blow to the left?

Also, do they bring an extra trailer around to every farm? Our contractor would usually have an extra trailer, but youd have to get it out of his yard yourself. He doesnt use a rake mind you, and the mowers would be way ahead

i remember pics of her last year :P :P *

thanks for the memories SPN ;D

Yes Stan you really have a thing for these Valtra ladies dont you!!( * )

Not my favorite tractor but most fun driving was a Valmet 8050 drawing silage last year. Hopefully I'll be back on it this year (or something better ) if i ever get to leave this cursed college ,

At home I enjoy driving our super major, especially bringing silage bales out into the field or attacking the dumg in the dungstead. Shes not the most powerful or easiest to drive but for the sheer primitveness its great fun. The Dexta is also good fun, especially at high speed, but for long jobs give me our Valtra 6650 for a bit of comfort. I also like driving the Ford 6610, a very handy tractor especially when the loader is off.

Did you use copper bar or brass?

well gate no2 went ok, gate no3 went very well. then gate no4 went Boobies up :'( :'( one joint came apart, took  an hour to get it to take again. >

Ah, you should've used the heat sink :

How strong are the gates when they're done?

Try attaching a large cold mass to whatever your soldering to act as a heat sink and prevent the heat from travelling. Works better with flat objects, but its worth a try.

hi all, after the arrival of yet more new machinery, we needed to make space. so i held a little farm sale, sadly though nothing sold! so all the more models for me ;D anyway there was alot of interest in that baler!

heres the pics..... :D :D

Yes, from two practically identical shepherds!! :D

You can use the car spare!

If its the type that sucks the paint up from the bottom, my advice is to throw it in the bin and get a gravity feed one with the paint cup on top. Then you only have to worry about the needle setting once youve wopped in a bit of thinners

I drilled out the body of a rivet lately and forced a small screw into it to hold it all together. It was on a Britains MF 6290 and was bloody hard work. That die cast stuff they use seems to clog up the drill bit \

Think you should do the smaller one at the front.  Think they'd be a bit more common.  Gandy are the ones i've seen

http://www.gandy.net/feed.php3

I think thats the one my local fella has too

Either Humbrol or Revell do pots of paint that are as near to Claas green as makes no difference

take off the outside bits and it mightnt look too bad

toyfarmer3, though you wont have seen me bid on anything farm model related lately

Thank you

Sorry for the vocabulary, I don't know all the words \

No problem for pics of my models

No worries Nico, I'd probably do the same if I was writing in french

Great model by the way, and thanks for the tip about the power harrow dust, it really is perfect for 'dirtying' models

I think he means by artisnal that it doesn't work (like an artistic impression  )

Lads I think he meant scratch-built when he used the word 'artesanil', like, made by an artisan. He probably looked it up in a dictionary, or made it up out of his head because I dont think its a proper english word

AH I see, i need one of those where me get one, cause a knife is crap

Plastruct is easy to cut. You just score it along where you want to cut it and then give it a bend and it snaps right in half exactly where you marked it.

six wheel jcb muck spreader

Hmm, sounds interesting, got any pics?

Thanks for that Andy. Cant wait for some of that stuff. That Ferguson looks the business!

Pulled this off Google image search as an example of what I'm talking about. You can see that the main section including the seed hopper is rigidly attached to the back of the power harrow, and the coulter bar is mounted on a pair of paralellograms, one of which is visible behind the seed pipes going from the hopper to the coulters. the air fan is usually belt driven off the back of the power harrow gearbox

got any pics then James PLEASE!! ??? \

I'll have a look tomorrow for you if I get time

Some drills mount straight onto the power harrow like the Amazone one in my Drilling spring barley topic, others are mounted to the power harrow via a linkage of some description so they can be lifted up seperately, handy on heavy land that needs 2 passes of the power harrow which is why we operate one like this on our heavy land

True Gavin but the ones that lift up and down seperataly are known as box drills and are a completely different style to the britans type of drill. As far as doing a conversion based on a Britains model goes, the coulter bar on the real ones are mounted on a paralellogram linkage so that the coulter height can be adjusted using a turnbuckle on either side, but hydraulics would be wrong.

Why do you guys want the drill to move, they dont on the real thing, theyre just mounted lower and rise up and down with the harrow on the lift.