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WHITESNAKE01

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Posts posted by WHITESNAKE01

  1. Hi all,

     

    Thank you guys for your replies! Hope you enjoy what's being produced!

    The next challenge were the steps. Made of square tubes in real life, but i didn't have anything which suited that. So there's nothing left (again....) to scratch something, and to be honest: it really isn't that hard. You just take a piece of round iron wire, thick enough, two hammers with one of them in a vice, and a great part of patience and a sharp view to produce your own square rod. The individual steps i've made of a narrow strip of plastic mesh material i purchased to make a realistic grille for my Caterpillar D8H (maybe i should open a Post on that one someday....🤔).

    Some images of the process:

     

    IMG_6078.JPG.e468fa99f764de3deaa991de0bb580c2.JPG

     

    IMG_6080.JPG.4438a000f53a4b5480c7610d193b6938.JPG

     

    IMG_6081.JPG.a13f992708dec246ea23ad32ef55c0a7.JPG

     

    IMG_6097.JPG.a156cad3d5b36ff0c074ed546d7c5265.JPG

     

    IMG_6098.JPG.838e6235f521089ec8f6d251ff111b02.JPG

     

    IMG_6099.JPG.0469ecc686cbb77c375edf9e9d08152b.JPG

     

    Glueing them to the bottom of the cabin, i realized they're mounted in a small angle, so that ultimately had to be done in the latest step.

    IMG_6100.JPG.0b54d0b5cea34b8fb5359dc6505ce8ea.JPG

     

     

    Scratch-made mirrors don't function without a real (looking) mirror-glass off course, so that part was done also today:

    IMG_6095.JPG.39bc80e05b00e79ac328273164d1186d.JPG

     

    IMG_6096.JPG.759fb979eea1122487ea556b7957e795.JPG

     

    A tiny piece of a chromed sticker i once saved for issues as this!  😉

    Perfectionism will pay off in the end........🤣

     

    Have yourself a nice weekend!!

     

     

    Best regards,

    Jan

     

    • Like 8
  2. On 1/23/2022 at 8:01 PM, justy 46 said:

    About 3 weeks. Longest part was stripping the paint and maybe 6 days waiting on the few bits from Dave.  It was not time consuming to be honest. Could probably have turned around quicker if I wanted to. 😁

    Hi,

     

    Can i just give you a tip in what paint stripper i'm using?
    I've been struggling this subject years ago, using paint strippers from the lumberyards, but this quality just sucks. 😡

    So i finally found me a much better solution for this: i visit the local car damage repair company, and ask them to sell me just about a liter or so from the paint stripper they use. And thát is form a professional quality, and thát is what one remarks!! The paint is off in minutes!!!! But beware: only to be used on die-cast-models. Any plastic will be useless after it gets in contact with this liquid.........

    Just to give you an idea, here's a YouTube-video i once made:

    https://youtu.be/DxVddDElpEA

     

     

    Best regards,

    Jan

    • Like 1
  3. On 1/29/2022 at 4:50 PM, Stabliofarmer said:

    Looking great so far Jan, what primer are you using in your airbrush? 

     

    Hi James,

    I'm a big fan of all products of Zero Paints, located somewhere in the UK, but supplied by a local Dutch supplier over here.

    They make a wide range of colors, and are increasing their products in the "agricultural" and "earth-moving"-equipment!

    All pre-thinned and ready-to-use from the bottle! Although this white primer i  just thinned a bit more.

    Here's their website: https://www.zero-paints.com/

     

    Best regards,

    Jan

    • Thanks 1
  4. Hi again,

     

    And as we continue, the first thing to build, but not on pictures here to see, was the rear hitch and drawbar. This was made from a kit from Artisan32, a French company which makes a lot of stuff one can use for building and detailling agricultural models. The version i've used was this one:

    relevage-arriere-06.thumb.jpg.214fbf3ee1931a803251856d430612fc.jpg

    To make a toy change into a serious scale-model, this is a first priority i.m.h.o.

    Then there's this issue about the interior of the cab, there's simply nothing in it which is like the real thing. So there's a lot to do!

    225977D7-8FBC-4F0C-B717-F7B3C6489850.thumb.jpeg.bc2370c30735f5fac70a9193a3eb95d2.jpeg

    C92AD820-BC4E-426F-B027-F9F4EDDEC874.thumb.jpeg.26b019e37a7b487971bb0b4cbb124655.jpeg

    7903D625-9D13-4248-8F1E-D419C47ACBED.thumb.jpeg.33458260dbfd3d59c7262f86dcc1f422.jpeg

    459887CE-1476-4316-A450-69B3EF4FF5A8.thumb.jpeg.27f66ce4224b69d0d73562dea7d8a1d4.jpeg

    6E88B60A-2960-48D1-96DD-774111D72F76.thumb.jpeg.2793959b2a0a1f337aab73712b11d9f4.jpeg

    12AB11B1-997A-46F9-99DD-590968C95518.thumb.jpeg.2a6d303439937cdcf6d96ca987a8e7e0.jpeg

    And i hope it's quite obvious to see, but i'm a BIG fan of details! It's sometimes really hard to do because some parts are really too small to hold in your hands, you definitely need a pair of tweezers, but in the end...............i just love it!!

    The seat i've used was a left-over from a Zetor-building-kit i've built last year, made by a Czech supplier.

    For those of you who would like to take a look ahead in the proces: take a look at my scale-modelling website:

    https://modelbouwjan.jouwweb.nl/landbouwminiaturen-trekkers/landini-6550-veloxdrive-1-32

    There's a whole lot more to see there, you know.....😉

     

    To be continued..............

     

    Best regards,

    Jan

    • Like 9
  5. Hi all,

     

    As i've worked on dairy farms in my puberty an adolesence-time, i recall fine memories from working on a local farm using a Landini 6550 VeloxDrive.

    So, collecting scalemodels with which i have a certain affinity, there should simply be a model of that type Landini.

    But as you all probably know, there aren't that much scalemodels of Landini tractors.

    So that kind of leaves the only possibilty to try to make one yourselfs. For that reason i purchased a model made by ROS, a Massey Ferguson 1014, since these models look quite the same, in real life as on scale. That purchase may be some 15 years ago, but it always was there, in the back of my mind, that the day would arrive to start re-shaping it to the Landini 6550. In the mean time i'm about four weeks busy now, and the result is coming to what i want it to be.

    Time for some pictures now:

    First of all some pictures of the original model from ROS, the MF1014:

    2006619049_MF1014ROS-2.jpg.271bf7d79881f2478a161291d94327a2.jpg

    674054327_MF1014ROS-3.jpg.c0c886fa8bc15237603abaf2eadba9d6.jpg

    MF1014ROS-1.jpg.e8fcc6ba7eacfcbe342fbfeb4af1662c.jpg

     

    399280710_Schermafbeelding2022-01-03om20_11_01.png.578809d1fa1bbfdcbe96d433ac0a4e62.png

    Seems ther even was a collectors-set with a tracked-version, as shown above.

     

    Now, dis-assembling wasn't that hard to do, but there was still a lot to re-shape, so saw and hand-file were needed a lot. For instance i assembled and mounted a drawbar and hitch (European version) to make the model look more realistic, and no longer a toy.

    This is a picture i made from the frontpage of an original leaflet, which i collected bakc then, which shows the 1:1-version, almost like the one i've worked with:

     

    IMG_5684.thumb.jpg.51cfbaa78e78ab8e4e608f7b1a02a8cf.jpg

     

    Next thing to do is to put the die-cast body and parts into the paint-remover. Back when i've worked in a trading company which imported and recovered tractors, i got to know the difference between the paint remover sold at lumberyards, and the professional version a simple consumer cannot get anywhere. Well, that made a hell of a lot difference.

    So, starting to work on the Landini-project, i dsicovered my stock was down to zero, and i had to visit a local car damage repair company, and ask them to sell me some new paint remover of professional quality. Simply because that does do the trick in minutes!

    Here's the result:

    IMG_5588.thumb.JPG.104eec9e2bfa157fa82a481d44e9379e.JPG

    IMG_5589.thumb.JPG.0f8e0a4421c749aa488e79baffbc0fd5.JPG

    IMG_5649.thumb.JPG.46e5b3979fce65b281a0177486e741cb.JPG

    IMG_5650.thumb.JPG.d5682fede1490a84f362b2c31da50c10.JPG

    IMG_5651.thumb.JPG.5041dac69c611bebd47fb1a2491bb118.JPG

    • Like 5
  6. Hi,

     

    Well, regarding printing White, that indeed is only possible with the unaffordable printer Joe says. So i had to find another possibility.
    Since there are two sorts of waterslide-decalsheets, namely Transparent or White-based,  i choose the White-based version for whenever i need someting which has the white color in it. For example: i'm making the building-kit of the Caterpillar D8, bought me years ago a half-built copy secondhand, and there where no decals with it anymore. No problem, i can make them myself!

    As mentioned in another topic, also started by Joe, i recommend the programm "InkScape", which i use for something over a year now after my computer crashed and i lost my Illustrator-app. Whenever you need to have white fonts on a colored background, as Joe's example here above, i make the colored background first and then put the needed text in it, making the textcolor white! That way you can easily place the text where you want it.
    I'll show you the picture of the Cat-logo i've made in InkScape below:

    IMG_5255.JPG.99c9cbe5fa8d62fdce0bdf017939eb39.JPG

    As you can see it is printed on White waterdecalsheet, leaving it to dry white after assembling.
    Right underneath the logo you'll see a small piece which i've cut out, that's where the type-numbering will be, but this is meant to be having the yellow background.
    So that number "D8H" i will print separate on a piece of Transparent decalsheet, and place it afterwards in the niche.
    The "old" CAT-logo i've designed using the drawing function, drawing a black square, a white circle and two black stripes. Just place them as you like to get the logo as it needs to be.

     

    Any questions, don't hesitate!

     

     

    Best regards,

    Jan

     

    • Thanks 1
  7. Hi there,

    I've been making my own decals for about some 20 years now. Originally using Adobe Illustrator, but after a computer-crash i've lost my copy.

    So i had to look for something else which apparently became the app "InkScape". Probably not to mention i'm using an iMac, since the Mac's simply give better results in these fields of work, according to everybody who works with it.

    The problem you might have with these fonts Joe (Catkom3), is that they seem to be like a ".jpeg"-file. The biggest disadvantage of that, is that these files are built-up from small pixels, which results in a worse visibility when you decrease them. Increasing them leads to un-sharpness also. I took a small example from the decals on your Claas combine, and there it shows quite good: The "CLAAS" word is very sharp (yes i know, it's original!), but the "Hay Farms" and the street name (if that's what it is) are un-sharp.

     

    Example.png.2206eded3a93463d2c4e4201c5773654.png

     

    What you need to have is a program which works with so-called "vector-files". Meaning that the files e.g. fonts and pictures always stay sharp, whether you increase or decrease them. It has no effect on the sharpness and visibility.

    I can recommend InkScape to you. I'm using this now for over a year, and i'm very happy with the results, although Illustrator remains my favorit! Another large advantage of InkScape is that it's freeware! So you can download it for free!! Here's the link: https://inkscape.org/nl/download/

    Another thing which is of direct influence, is how your printer is set for printing: i always use a high resolution for printing on decalsheets, just in order to get the best results. Choosing another version of paper might be also affecting the result. To go short: trial and error is my method and i ALWAYS make some examples on normal white paper before printing on decalsheets.

    Good luck!!

     

     

    Best regards,

    Jan

    • Thanks 1
  8. I also agree guys. Since becoming a LCN-member, back in 1990 or so, i haven't missed one single fair. I remember in the early days it was held in Dronten, but when that occasion became too small for the amount of visitors, they choose Zwolle, which is a great building for such fairs.

    Rumors however are going round now for several years that even Zwolle will disappear, seems the owner of the building has plans for renovation or even re-building from the ground.

    We'll see what happens, hopefully this virus-misery is going away quickly!

     

     

    Best regards,

    Jan

    • Like 2
  9. On 5/18/2021 at 10:14 PM, Goodiestractor said:

    Hi Jan welcome to the Forum have or do you attend the LCN show at Zwolle as several Collectors on here do make the trip as and when the show is on

    I hear no announcement about this years show has been made but something is going to be said in June apparently is it possible you could find this out and confirm something to us.

    Thank you for sharing some of your collection they all look very nice and well cared for

    Kind regards

    Goody

    Hi,

     

    Thanks for your reactions to my post.

    Unfortunately there will be no LCN-show at Zwolle this year also, due to Covid-restrictions.

    As (one of the first) LCN-member(s) i also regret this, but the organisation has decided so a while ago.

    You have to understand it takes several months of preparation to organise a fair like this, and they do not see any chance to do so.

    When there will be any change, i surely will let you know, but personally i do not think it will be held this year.

    We'll see what comes next year.

     

    All the best to you!

     

    BR
    Jan

    • Like 2
    • Thanks 1
  10. 3 hours ago, robbo said:

    Limited edition set from Poppema Agricultural Miniatures

    https://www.poppemalandbouwminiaturen.nl/Universal-Hobbies-UHMFset-MF-set-MF-675-4WD-amp-MF-690-2WD-132-limed-750-stuks-PRE-ORDER-leverbaar-in-augustus-gemaakt-iov-Poppema-Landbouwminiaturen-prijs-is-voor-de-set-beide-modellen-komen-in-1-verpakking/?fbclid=IwAR1S3QD7KGlS-YeLSapiZqA3vVj3qkzN1ZvNH48E9zJ93k61LGadjiurCRA

    Massey Ferguson 675 4WD and Massey Ferguson 690 2WD.

    I don't wish to be critical but I would have thought that it would have been better for the 675 to be the 2 wheel drive version and the 690 to be the 4 wheeler, having said that, I will probably order the set

    Hi all,

     

    Visited this supplier, my "regular one",  yesterday, and immediately ordered this set.

    I know this guy quite some years now, and what he brings out, is mostly perfect!!!
     

     

    Best regards,

    Jan

  11. 32 minutes ago, mb86 said:

    Welcome to the forum Jan. You have a fantastic collection. We all collect for different reasons but it is always that bit more special when it has a personal meaning. 

    Thank you all, Martin here in particular.

    Indeed, one can collect everything which is (or: was) available, but you'll definitely need a second house or shed for these amounts.

    I personally am very happy with the newest members of the suppliers, like Universal Hobbies, Wiking, Replicagri and Weise, for instance.

    When i was a kid, there was only Britains, and i was happy that Siku entered the ring with agricultural models in 1:32 scale.

    I remember my first Siku model: it was a Fendt 308LSA, having a white-plastic cabin, and it was painted in Deutz-green.............😱

    Nowadays one feels ashamed to have such a "toy" in your collection.

    So, through the years, as getting older, and for that possibly somewhat more sentimental,  you'll see your collection growing in a more specific way, which i think is common and healthy. ☺️

     

    Best regards,

    Jan

    • Like 3
  12. Aah, now i see!! Thank you David!

    But i don't remember seeing one of these around here?

     (i was just checking the WWW for pictures of old(er) Case-models of combines........ 😉

     

    In the area i live, there seem to be a lot of very small combines still working, like the old Claas ones etc.

    Somewhere i must have pictures made of them, but where to find these pictures.....??? 🤔

    • Like 1
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