fitting pma 32 row crop wheels

[nathan]

hi , has anybody any tips on how to fit these wheels as they have nothing to put the rear axles through if you know what i mean. any help would be great cheers .

[Tractorman810]

wait till i do mine then i can tell you nath, have a good idea how to  do them just need to try and do them, hopefully sunday if i can, great wheels bar this mind, even got the air valves on them

[nathan]

well i haven't got a clue where to start mate, they could do with being a bit stronger on the backs if you know what i mean sean.

[Tractorman810]

all worked out nath, just got to do them, might try sunday, the actuall idea is simple, its getting the time to make them thats harder, might yet cast them to, the hubs at least

[Richard de Florennes]

Hi everybody, as this topic seems not to have been continued, here is my question:

Can anybody provide any explanation, ideally step-by-step of how to replace standard wheels of a 1/32 scale tractor and fit row crop wheels.

Wich tools are needed? How to avoid destroying the whole tractor?

Any hints highly appreciated.

I have absoloutely no idea, for me, the wheels of any 1/32 seem such firmly fixed that I find not the strenghts nor the right tool to get them of without destroying the whole model. It's a miracle how this can be achieved ...

[Tractorman810]

will post pics when i get home from work for you very easy to do mind

[Tractorman810]

right, first off what tractor are you fitting them to, mines on a wiking JD

for the rears first

remove the current wheels, just pop the lugs from the inside of the hub and that exposes the usual siku pin with nut/washer on, pop them out

with the pma wheel, meassure the internal dia of the hub and cut a disc of plastic card out to match making sure that you have the center well marked, usually the compass point will do this for you, glue 4 spacer bits to one side i used 2mm thick square plastic strut, but i guess you can go up to what ever allows the new disc you have to sit flush with the inside rim of the hub,

get a new Axel rod, i used brass rod,leave that longer than required for the minute, and a section of plastic strut tube to use as a hub  over that, drill the center of the new disc to the hub tube outer dia size , then the center of the  pma wheel (which is marked from the manufacturing process)to the axel rod dia  you have , this way the wheel keeps its nuts etc, and all you see is the brass rod that you used, (will show better in my pictures below)

test fit the tube through the new disc and the pma wheel, buy putting the tube through the 2 discs its easier to center and it also gives you a good area/ two points to glue it to. along with gluing the spacer to the pma hub,  effectively all you do then is cut the hub tube to the right length on the inside edge  so once the axles in they sit to the right spacing on the tractor ,cut the new Axel rod to the right length and once fully happy paint them up and fit again 

the fronts the same method, but don't drill the new center  hub hole through the pma wheel, just drill out the new inner disc that you cut ,add the spacers to the new disc inside test fit ,then drill out the pma wheel  making  that hole just big enough for the screw that holds the wheel on, to go through, so the screw head holds it on and allows it to turn like the original ,

you Will need to make a new front Axel outer cover hub, as the pma one will not cover the wheel screws, but that's easy to do, just a section of bigger tubing and a cover glued to that, the tractors in the loft now for the mo, but here's a few pictures of them fitted, if you want insdie pictures i will have to do them at the weekend now

[Richard de Florennes]

Thank you very much for the description Tractorman, very appreciated!

however, I think I will leave it to the professional customizers to do this - seems to ve a very complicated process with a lot of tricky parts ...

regards, Sascha