catkom3

4 hours ago, Stabliofarmer said:

Alright, this 3D print stuff is quite good fun. Stl file bought of cults, never thought I'd have my car in 1/32 scale 

Ha ha, Snap, Did the very same with my Swift.

Regards

Joe.

Very nicely done Sean, printing could be tricky though.

Regards

Joe.

1 hour ago, Tractorman810 said:

from memory its set at .1 mm runs clean as a whistle across the bed, and sticks right away, but after a couple of runs round they start to lift, wondering if the parts are two fine for just a  brim or skirt bed, as the red one was on a raft, and that was perfect , thats the only think bar colour thats changed, it never seems to lift in the same place, which would suggest grease or dirt.the beds wiped down with ipa before i let it  go, and its  got a layer of glue on it,that tombow stuff. gets a fresh one each time.both filaments are + ones, think i will run the next chassis kit on a  raft seen what happens the tops (grain and silage) seem to come out ok on brims. 

That's just weird, most folk with printers won't use raft's claiming they are useless, I'm beginning to think there may be some form of conflict between Ios and Cura software, Have you tried sketching anything useing different CAD software and printing that direct to Cura, ??

Regards

Joe. 

I've been thinking about this a lot Sean, the only other thing I can think of is the initial layer height check both your slicer mine is set at 0.3 if the one that doesn't stick is less than that there won't be enough "squish" to form a decent bed for the other layers to stick to,

Regards

Joe.

Just been looking around to try and solve your issues Sean, I reckon if you make this your next print it will show which temperature is best suited to printing your blue PLA, You notice there are 10 different levels on this tower your printer will print each level at a different temperature which will let you see exactly which temperature you need,

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3912855/files

Regards

Joe.

The software that came with mine was Creality as well, The + will be higher tech possibly with different settings that's what the + will signify, Might be worth while cross referencing the temperature settings in your slicer compared to the temperature marked on the box or the label on the spool.

Regards

Joe.

3 hours ago, Tractorman810 said:

just the same as the red one joe, both e sun pla, bar colour theres nothing different bar software, guess theres something in that thats effecting it some how? its perfect again now, using the creality cura that came with the printer, prehaps the ultimaker ones not got all the settings,guess i will need to sit and have a look 

Little bit of confusion creeping in here I think Sean, There is only one Cura, which is the property of Ultimaker, 4 Years ago when I got my first proper 3D printer I was useing Ultimaker Cura version 3.6.1, I am now useing 4.11.0, and I think you are most likely useing 4.13.1 which I reckon could be giving you some grief as that version is a bit to advanced for me at this stage, I reckon if you uninstall 4.13.1 and then download and install 4.11.0 that should help, In Cura 4.11.0 there is only a choice of eSun PLA+ Black Grey Purple and White, Is your filament PLA + that little plus could be quite significant, Try doing a test print, Use the wee Benchy boat I popped up the other day and change your setting to Generic PLA, See how that goes if it prints that torture test Benchy it'll print anything,

Regards

Joe.

Just had a thought Sean, What type of filament have you selected, In my photo you will see I have selected eMotionTech PETG, yours should be either Generic PLA if you are useing PLA or specifically the brand you are useing, Cura has all these specification assigned to all the different filaments out there if your useing the wrong one your bed and nozzle temperatures will be wrong, hence the print not sticking.That's a drop down box by the way multiple filament choices in there.

Regards

Joe

Sorry Sean bit of a mystery to me, Could you message me the stl files and I can try printing them myself,

Regards

Joe

No worries Gavin a lot of prints require a brim especially tal thin prints and a little glue never goes wrong.

Regards

Joe.

1 minute ago, Gav836 said:

Yes, using Cura as my slicer

Just a suggestion but alter your settings, Top right and chose Super Quality then scroll down and check the box to add a brim, glue stick would be handy then print it again, should be spot on then.

Regards

Joe.

I see the thing now, you might like to print that again, Are you useing Cura as your slicer, ??

Regards

Joe.

5 minutes ago, Gav836 said:

They should be all the same finger, no top or bottom ones. The first layer seems to loop so will get the glue stick out next time. It’s SunLu PLA filament in there now. 
it’s a complete Moreau six row beet harvester on there but all the files are separate which is handy. 

Cheers Gavin, I was just wondering if a Carbon fibre filament might handle that job a bit better, never tried that yet but I believe it is higher temperature so might make a difference, There is a group on Facebook who might have the answere, but asking there will return as many helpful wrong answeres as helpful correct answeres,

https://www.facebook.com/groups/669068986490743

Regards

Joe.

Interesting print Gavin. the lower fingers look like they might be spot on but the top ones look thinner that might be why they have curled up, What filament did you use, and what is that thing actualy called on Thingiverse, as I'd like to see what the end result should look like.

Regards

Joe.

Farmmodels nl do this one which I think is actually Artisan32 weight, so Mandy might have them

https://www.farmmodels.nl/20754-Frontgewichten-set-van-22-gewichten-gewicht-drager-02-(-04402)-

Regards

Joe.

Changeing settings for TPU is a pain, But when you try it make absolutely certain you go into Cura settings and disable RETRACTIONS or it will look like a ball of steel wool, it is also really hard to remove from the build plate especially the new textured ones on the Ender 3 Pro, Funnily enough after reading your earlier reply I did go watch a tyre making tutorial, It could take some time, Meanwhile I finally got the hydraulic rams for my "Hooglosser" Araldited and fixed in place, Reckon if AT&T or MarGe don't do one I'll take a crack at it myself, only started it on Christmas eve ah the joy's of being retired,

Regards

Joe. 

You'll need to get yourself a spool of black TPU and have a go at doing tyres they do look good but are a bit shiney though a quick spray of black Silicone rubber makes them look more realistic, And I'll need to take another crack at tyres after James mentioned never actually drawing a circle but rotating a cross section, last tutorial I watched I could not understand how they were round but never made a circle.

Regards

Joe. PS TPU normally sold in half kilo's.

Printing round objects can be tricky Sean, printing them standing like that would give the best results but make sure you have "brim" enabled or they might topple over, You might want to soak your magnetic bed in hot soapy ( Fairy Liquid ) water and remove the old glue or you will get failed prints from the uneven surface, very impressive work on the tyres.

Regards

Joe.

Ah right cheers Gav, But at long last Creality have started putting a new design of extruder on their printers, so all new printers after the Ender 3 Pro now has a flexible compatible extruder, The extruder was the problem as the gap between the toothed brass wheel and the opening to the Bowden tube was slightly to wide allowing the filament to squish out rather than be forced down the tube.

Regards

Joe.

Ooh an Ender 3 S1, have fun Gavin, be good for all the repetitive parts on your Beet harvesters like the grills etc,

Regards

Joe.

Yes Ultimaker Cura. I'm useing Version 4.11.0 I'm not up gradeing to 4.13.1 yet as it has to many new features I don't want right now, I imagine that will be the version you now have.

Regards

Joe.

Sorry Sean I thought you were alraedy useing Cura, yes there are loads of settings in Cura thankfully most never need changeing, But now your getting familiar with what your printer is capable of you might like to print a couple of test prints, Simple little pieces but difficult for a 3D printer to print well, the little cube should be dead straight and dead square the wee boat ( benchy ) has curves and right angles plus holes and tubes hard for a printer to replicate fathfully, When you download the .stl files they will open straigh into Cura where you can either print them direct or save to your 3D file,

Cube

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3189377/files

Benchy

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4164071/files

Regards

Joe

Yes James the little accessories you can knock out in CAD then print off is amazeing, I just knocked up two L shaped item's which will come in handy for holding large square flat panels till the Araldite sets simple little things but with four recesses in each I can glue in Neodinium magnets to make them magnetic clamps, One of the guy's on the French forum sketched up round drums so he could create corrugated iron roof panels, The possibilities are end less, and cheap.

Regards

Joe.

On 5/31/2021 at 10:32 PM, CX820Joe said:

That was it, assuming it's something with more hp than the 724? 726 possibly?

Just seen this on Facebook, Over 300HP,

Regards

Joe.

Also depends on your setting for your mouse Barry you can scroll slowly or quickly if you want.

Regards

Joe.