catkom3

Well I never, I've been useing Henry's site for years, never noticed that before as I always use my scroll wheel, unless I want to go up or down really quickly.

Regards

Joe.

I recently got 1.2mm and 1.4mm brass screws from the guys at Cornwall boats, and I know you like makeing your own planking. But Wood effect filament is really nice it has a semi rough finish plus you could sketch it up to the exact size to fit your trailers platform, could be printed as individual planks or as a complete piece.

Regards

Joe.

That's turned out really well Sean, Very impressed, Reckon pin diameter would be a bigger issue than hole diameter.

Regards

Joe.

Proper job, well done that man, the World is now your Oyster, there is a setting for custom supports on the left of screen looks like steps.

Regards

Joe.

Be very careful when removeing while still warm, It is extremely easy to warp prints when still warm I've done it a few times, If you do warp anything try placeing it on the heated bed with a weight on it then crank the temperature up to 60 that might flatten it out again.

Regards

Joe.

This is how I would have printed your parts, I'mglad you are now up and running but there is a lot to take in, easy for me to say as I've now been at it 7 years and on my third printer, There is another down side to printing everything at once, you will have a helluva job getting all that mass of plastic off your print bed, you can obviously remove the magnetic print bed but doing that to often will increase the need to level your bed again, Anyway as promised a photo of how I would have printed your part's.

Regards

Joe.

It is a steep learning curve for sure all new terminology etc, but you will get there been better if there was an ios slicer, but such is life, When your in Cura you can use the Preview button Top centre, that will let you see if there is a brim or skirt or raft, most flat print like yours should not need any, you only need one or other of them to print tall thin things, like the round rollers I did recently 8ml diameter 72ml tall defo needed a brim on them.

Regards

Joe.

I forgot to submit that after editing it, Am I right thinking you are useing Cura as your slicer,

Regards

Joe.

Looking good almost, what you should have on that bed is the parts you sketched up, What I see there is all the parts with a very substantial brim around them already, no wonder your prints are takeing so long, and useing three times as much filament, I'm in the middle of a print right now but once it's finished I'll print a stand alone object with no brim so you can see what it looks like, If you like you can easily run that through Meshmixer which will separate all those parts into individual parts.??

Regards

Joe.

Looking good almost, what you should have on that bed is the parts you sketched up, What I see there is all the parts with a very substantial brim around them already, no wonder your prints are takeing so long, and useing three times as much filament, I'm in the middle of a print right now but once it's finished I'll print a stand alone object with no brim so you can see what it looks like, If you like you can easily run that through Meshmixer which will separate all those parts into individual parts.??

PS, this is what we get when clicking on your video link, ???????

Regards

Joe.

Apparently there are two systems you can use to send files from your ios device to your printer, both Cloud based I think,

https://apps.apple.com/us/app/astroprint-for-3d-printing/id1152378866

https://octoprint.org/

Regards

Joe.

Did you check the link I put up, didn't read it myself just enough to see it was helpful, The test print is all done from the SD card you can't alter any of that, And I just realised you probably don't know where to look for actual settings so I've taken a screengrab of my setting to show you, Notice it is set to PLA Generic don't panic about these setting most never get changed except quality infill and print speed.

Regards

Joe.

18 hours, what is the print speed in your slicer, I would set that at somewhere around 50mms and Dynamic quality and start with the basic chassis upside down,

Regards

Joe.

3 minutes ago, Tractorman810 said:

the software i used saved as a g code?? not what i thought it would

When you slice it you'll get the option to choose .stl or gcode, your printer will print gcode direct from your SD card, And check this out for running Cura on ios.

https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/f0p3u6/ive_ported_cura_to_ios_so_you_can_slice_your/

Regards

Joe.

12 minutes ago, Stabliofarmer said:

I've seen stuff about Gcode for printing before but never really understood it. I just save the file direct from splicer (chitubox) onto a USB, plug the USB into the printer and hit print from the touchscreen menu. Use a cnc router at work that requires direct Gcode and just alot of hassle these days to be honest. 

Good, it isn't just me that doesn't know the difference then

Regards

Joe.

Good the first printer I built also forgot one of the cables, But a socket with no plug suggests somethings amiss, As for the SD card lots of guys save their pieces straight to the card as gcode files, Not sure of the difference, but I always save mine to my stl folder and print them as stl files unless it's a long print 15 / 16 hours or so, after you slice an item you get the chance to chose .stl or gcode, James might shed some light on that.

Regards

Joe.

It should come out something like this Sean don't worry about what print's look like at the start, Specially if you use a Skirt or a Brim as you'll wonder what the thing is doing, be alright in the end though,

Regards

Joe.

Congratulations Sean, Now convert that video into something we can all see, How did it go, was the build reasonably straight forward, and how did you get on with the bed levelling, which unless to remove the magnetic plate frequently  you shouldn't need to do again for quite a while.

Regards

Joe.

Final we snip of info Sean before you end up pulling your hair out tomorrow wondering why you cannot get the filament to go through the extruder there is a knack to it and this video explains how it's do, You might also like to tweek the first 25ml so the filament is straight rather than bent in a coil because it's been wrapped round the spool for some time.

Regards

Joe.

Apparently Zwolle 2022 is going ahead according to the LCN Forum,

https://www.agrarmodellbau.de/forum/index.php?thread/967331-zwolle-2022/

Translation,

• #1

Regards

Joe.

9 minutes ago, 844john said:

I’m sure it’ll be a doddle assembling it for someone of your background Sean, but I have to say I found it a bloody nightmare doing our Emily’s. Mind you, it was Christmas morning and I’d already had two glasses of Prosecco, so that might have slowed me down a bit😉

Sorry John I could have helped you out there, There is a video on the SD card that show's you how to assemble it,

Regards

Joe.

Best of luck, and as usual there is a Creality produced video on Youtube, not exactly the same as the one on the SD card but very similar and that electronic voice is a real pain, When I got mine built I had to take all the pressure off the springs they had been screwed right down possibly to save damage in transit you see that near the end, looks a bit Heath Robinson useing a sheet of paper to achieve a level bet but that is the standard I use a strip of matt photo paper as it has just enough rigidity to PUSH as well as pull.

Regards

Joe.

The assembly is quite straight forward, but I've built one before, the only things to look out for is to make sure the "nut's" on the T nuts turn around in the slots in the aluminium extrusions and getting the sockets on the silly JST ( Japanese Solderless Terminals ) plugs the right way round they are all labelled but hard to let if your offering them up in the correct alignment ie front or back.

Regards

Joe.

46 minutes ago, Tractorman810 said:

may be on my list at some point, but i have another cab in mind for my first attempt, to get a build i have 1/4 done on the shelf,the cabs always been an issue,but i may just get there now 

Ok but I have just remembered, Before you start building your printer find that Micro SD card as there is a  video on that showing how to build the machine, Can't remember if it mentions that in the actual diogram on how to assemble it.

Regards

Joe.

Not being funny or anything Sean 'cause I know you prefer building your models by hand but you do now have a new skill to aid model building and most of that cab could be sketched out fairly easily, The cab roof would look really good printed useing Wood effect filament printed .5 ml thin, I did this cab front purely from a scanned photo, the bale in the background is produced useing Wood effect filament it has a nice grainy texture.

Regards

Joe