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ferguson TE-20 ( help needed)


DMullen

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me and my cousin have decided to try can get a TE-20 thats been in a shed at the farm for a few years up and running. It was my uncles and he said we can do what we like with it,  ;D ;D ;D.

All i no about it is that it drove in  there a few years ago ands its been there ever since.

ive put a new battery in it and topped it up with oil and water, but what type of fuel does it use ????and what other things should i check or work at before i try and start her  :)

any help appreciated  :)

and ill get a few pics up tomorrow was to dark tonight  :(

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Well mate, welcome to the Grey Fergie owner's club........ :)

I bought a Fergie TED-20 around 6 years ago and have been doing bits and pieces as and when time allows ever since........

With regards to fuel type, when sitting in the driver seat look at the steering wheel, there should be a small plate behind it, this is the serial plate, at the bottom will be the model and serial, for example:-

If the number reads TE-D xxxxxxxx then she will be a petrol parraffin model - fuel tank divided in two, with small tank for petrol and large tank for parraffin.

If the number reads TE-F xxxxxxx then she will be a diesel machine

If the plate is not there or visible just look at the fuel tank - if two caps are present she will be a petrol parraffin........

If she is a petrol parraffin model, the most common fuel to use is heating kerosene mixed with a small percentage of petrol........

Useful websites to look at include:-

www.fofh.co.uk - includes a page on parraffin recipes

www.holland-brand.co.uk - a great source for spare parts and info, Graham and Mark have been a great help to me in the past

www.old20.com - another great source of parts and paint.

Hope that's of use mate and best of luck with the old girl........ :)

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Any more questions just fire away mate........Especially if she's a petrol parraffin........ :)

yea same here :D

i bought one a few months back...my granda owned it about 50 years ago so i thought it would be nice to have ::)

to get it going i put in a new battery, fresh petrol, a new set of sparking points and away she went :P

oh yea if its a tvo (parrifin) the mix for tvo is 4 parts heating oil to 1 part petrol and about a pint of diesel ;)

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To get the T20 started you only need to put some petrol in the rear tank and make sure first that there is no old fuel left in that tank. If there is, drain it all out and clean the glass bowl out under the tank then make sure that the 'butterfly' tap is turned to let the new petrol into the bowl. Next thing to do is to undo the drain tap on the bottom of the carbourettor to make sure there is no old fuel in the float chamber, keep this tap open until the new fuel flows from it. Then just turn the engine over with the starting handle if it's available and turn the ignition isolating key/switch 'on' and pull out the choke knob 2/3rds with the throttle 1/2 way open, if you have a good battery on it, all the better. Don't forget that the majority of the T20's had a 6 volt system, battery beside the left mudguard on a tray. You're ok to try a 12 volt on it to give you faster turning of the engine seeing it's been stood for some time but running the tractor on a 12 volt will burn out the coil, unless the electrical system has been changed from 6 to 12 volt. Spark plugs are normal long-reach ones as on Morris Minor, Mini etc and should have a 25 thou gap on the electrode. You may have to remove the distributor cap and clean the contacts of the rotor arm, the outer edge where it passes the electrodes where the HT leads slot into and clean the top center of it where the carbon pin contacts and the end of the pin. It would also pay to just clean the points contacts as well with fine grade wet-and-dry paper, gap on the points if you need to re-set them should be 15 thou. Firing order, if you have to disturb any of the plug leads is 1243

    A bit comprehensive I know, but if you don't have new petrol and good electrical contact it will never start.    Hope this is of help.

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To get the T20 started you only need to put some petrol in the rear tank and make sure first that there is no old fuel left in that tank. If there is, drain it all out and clean the glass bowl out under the tank then make sure that the 'butterfly' tap is turned to let the new petrol into the bowl. Next thing to do is to undo the drain tap on the bottom of the carbourettor to make sure there is no old fuel in the float chamber, keep this tap open until the new fuel flows from it. Then just turn the engine over with the starting handle if it's available and turn the ignition isolating key/switch 'on' and pull out the choke knob 2/3rds with the throttle 1/2 way open, if you have a good battery on it, all the better. Don't forget that the majority of the T20's had a 6 volt system, battery beside the left mudguard on a tray. You're ok to try a 12 volt on it to give you faster turning of the engine seeing it's been stood for some time but running the tractor on a 12 volt will burn out the coil, unless the electrical system has been changed from 6 to 12 volt. Spark plugs are normal long-reach ones as on Morris Minor, Mini etc and should have a 25 thou gap on the electrode. You may have to remove the distributor cap and clean the contacts of the rotor arm, the outer edge where it passes the electrodes where the HT leads slot into and clean the top center of it where the carbon pin contacts and the end of the pin. It would also pay to just clean the points contacts as well with fine grade wet-and-dry paper, gap on the points if you need to re-set them should be 15 thou. Firing order, if you have to disturb any of the plug leads is 1243

    A bit comprehensive I know, but if you don't have new petrol and good electrical contact it will never start.    Hope this is of help.

Is there anything you don't know  ???:o I think we should hollow a out a mountain for you to live in and then we can all come to you with offerings in exchange for answers to burining questions  :D :D :D Having you here is like having a direct line to God!!!  :D :D :D

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Yes Simon a very comprehensive write up from Tim there... obviously he has been there done it and worn the T shirt.

The only thing I would say is that if 6 volt I would have no problems putting a 12 volt battery through the starter just to give that faster turnover but personally I would still only wire the ignition to a 6 volt battery. That's maybe me being ever cautious but 6 volt stuff these days ( if you can get replacements) cost an arm and a leg versus 12 volt stuff. That's the way I eventually got me French Farmall Cub started after loosing pints of sweat with the starting handle ;) ;)

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A very simple task to change a T20 to 12 volt. It's just the starting system that you have to do. As far as I remember, coil, starter motor and distributor is whats important, Don't think you have to renew the whole distributor, only the condenser. Look at the starter motor and it will have the voltage stamped into it but you do need a 12 volt one as the armature windings are'nt strong enough to carry the current for any length of time from a 12 volt battery. I think an MF35 starter will fit but you would have to make sure.

Thanks for the previous comments lads. Yes, have 'been there, done that, got the T shirt, worn it out and used as an oily rag'. Tractor electrics has been one of my strengths over the years and have found most peoples problems to be just dirty or broken connections and a decent circuit tester is very useful.

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