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The peculiar world of 3D printing. Printers and CAD in a world of Craft Knifes and Pencils.


Stabliofarmer

Question

I might as well start the topic I've spoken about in the purchases topic. If admin want to do the fancy thing where they move posts to different threads then I think what was discussed in the purchases topic would make a nice start to this one. 

Anyhow, in the mean time... 

Printer 

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Printing

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Printed wheels

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Edited by Stabliofarmer
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have a feeling i know what i did scale wise, i printed my oversized master so to speak  ,not the scaled down one,doubt the detail will be as good down to 1/32, i recon its prob  not far off 1/16 looking at it.i do sometimes scale the plan up so i can see where bits aint joining properly ,

but i did break a few springs off when taking the supports off. nothing that cant be glued back on though i recon ,

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sorry joe was having a senior  moment , yes at this scale the detail is stunning,  recon its 1/16 or close to it ,  once the mother has been taken home 😂😂 birthday meal tonight ,so tomorrow  i will be trying a trailer ,in washable resin , see what comes out    was a pain cleaning up standard resin, 

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47 minutes ago, James Joe Dewar said:

Aye cleaning upthe mess would bug my joy, But I don't think that is such a big problen with the soluble stuff, would be interesting to know how the model is printed in resin, but the supports are soluble, ???

Regards

Joe.

The supports themself aren't soluble Joe, it's just the uncured resin sat on the part that you are washing off. The supports break off as they narrow down to a fine point where they meet the part. By using hot water the resin gets a little bit of flex and you can simply push the finished piece off the supports. This avoids snapping parts like Sean's experienced. Will grab some photos tomorrow to explain.

Looking good so far Sean, you'll be surprised at the detail you get, I should think everything will carry over on a correctly scaled version. 0.7mm wide x 0.3mm high nuts print perfectly on my Elegoo.

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Hopefully shows what's going on. These have alot less supports, being round you only need supports at the very bottom as the model gradually steps out and back on, no sharp undercuts.

You can see in the first photo dimples on each wheel, this is uncured resin that we are washing off in the first video, second video shows how by using hot water the model pushes off its supports. These models are arguably over supported hence abit of force needed, using the splicers standard settings they'd simply fall off with some hot water.

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cheers james, the second prints off and running now, using the washable stuff, so i will try that method for removing it when its done. seem to be having a few issues with the printer not recognising the file names at the mo, no idea as its what chittabox calls them ,so need to resolve that, but thats more new software and me to be honest. then its down to settings to find the best speed against detail/finish ,again trial and error i think

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second print went wrong, somehow managed to get both items merged on the program, and didnt notice till half way through, spent an hour last night going through the chitta program and figuring out what i got wrong ,  and remade another file, which went on at 7.30 this morning, so far looks spot on to what i want, chassis and body in one print at 10 hours, so half the filament ones time. only bonus of the failed 2nd print, it had proven that the trailer works, and all the holes are there, they all fit fine and even though i have not bother curing it, its very strong already. got wheels ,grain shoots and a few other small bits out, which again all look perfect,very impressed with it so far, even if the old duffer on the laptop has buggered a few bits up 😂😂

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30 minutes ago, Stabliofarmer said:

Sounds good so far Sean, remember to cure them eventually though. Even though they feel hard to the touch from what I understand without a good cure they'll start to melt/disintegrate from the inside out leaving you with a gloopy mess months down the line.

Am I right in thinking I've seen guy's cureing Resin prints in seconds useing UV torch's, ??

Regards

Joe.

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1 hour ago, James Joe Dewar said:

Am I right in thinking I've seen guy's cureing Resin prints in seconds useing UV torch's, ??

Regards

Joe.

Normally you use a curing station, basically a big uv lamp with a turntable infront of it. Tends to be 5 minutes cure each side

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yeah it will run through the curing station when done, put the tines through for 5 mins each side, seems to be the common time going by all the comments and videos i have seen, starting to realise how to trim time, mainly on the lift height between levels, so it will be 4 mm instead of factory set 8 mm, which takes 4 seconds of a layer in turn adds up quickly on say. a 4000 odd layer  which is running now ,few other bits can be altered as well, like layer level, but you then need to sand lines ect. most seem to save by the lift height 

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32 minutes ago, Tractorman810 said:

i guess you get waste with any printer, even resin, this new software slicer i have now tell you a total cost in resin, but doesn't break it down to model and supports, so hard to tell, the trailers cost in at £1.87 of resin so it claims ? 

Ye you can add the cost of any article you print by adding it into the settings in your slicer, I've never really bothered doing it as it's simple enough to just divide the cost of filament used to print by the cost of a kilo of the material you used.

Regards

Joe.

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