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The peculiar world of 3D printing. Printers and CAD in a world of Craft Knifes and Pencils.


Stabliofarmer

Question

I might as well start the topic I've spoken about in the purchases topic. If admin want to do the fancy thing where they move posts to different threads then I think what was discussed in the purchases topic would make a nice start to this one. 

Anyhow, in the mean time... 

Printer 

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Printing

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Printed wheels

IMG_20211005_212320.thumb.jpg.a19bc19734212eea16f6df87a7ef5cb1.jpg

Edited by Stabliofarmer
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well that went well, seems my printer may well have an uv light issue, was fine saturday last weekend, put a print on sunday, nothing??? tried 3 others nothing, tried 2 others resins nothing. cleaned it all up and did a clean cycle with a skim of resin on a spare fep sheet i had , and noticed that i could not see the uv light with the lid closed, which i could when i have exposure tested and done a clean cycle before, and it failed to cure the resin on the sheet, opened the lid whilst it is on, tried again with a exposure test and clean cycle and its very dim?? bit like me some would say 😂😂😂 .so now waiting for a reply to my online chat and email to creality. thought it was going a bit to well 

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new screen and light pack on its way, sent videos and all sorts to them in the technical dept as requested , and they agreed with the initial diagnosis made by their online chat guy ,uv lights on but way under powered, i have also got to add a new firmware when its fitted as well, i hope the instructions come in english when it all arrives is all i can say 

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Been wanting to do this for months, finally gave it a go last night, it's just a bed for a trailer done in wood filament, it's about 8 feet by 16, but could simply be resized in any slicer, fairly simple but tedious to sketch up, bottom right corner screwed up a wee bit as didn't apply sufficient glue on build plate.

Regards

Joe.

 

 

Timber trailer bed.JPG

Edited by James Joe Dewar
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well after most of the day ,since 10ish ,mainly trying to remember how to it , especially the wavy pattern tread ,which i have not found on any youtube video ,have used maths i have not used since school working out arcs and stuff along with breaking down to correct size sections to use .my head hurts now 😂😂😂 but i think i have got some tyres  sorted for the trailers, little more detailed than the cast ones i have, but if they come out ok it will save me some time instead of rubber casting. have even found a potential resin thats rubber style as well, but its hellish pricey for a small bottle first sets printing in normal resin as i type before committing to a costly bottle of resin,black paint may be easier 😂😂

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Looks great Sean, have the new parts for the printer arrived?

I looked at the printable rubber and decided it was cheaper to buy silicone, casting rubber and pigment, create a mould and cast the tyres than to print a single set in rubber. But obviously I have to look to the most profitable option. Will be interesting to see how the printable rubber performs if you do get some!

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cheers james, they really took some doing,

the printer parts arrived Tuesday, so fitted them Wednesday, its now does the exposure test fine and the clean tests as well ,  so all working again, plus a new fep sheet to replace the one wasted in the tests (freebie) not what i had before though ,a softer  sheet than normal, looks smokey, but is very easy to fit, and no sticking/pop when it lifts now. 5 prints in and no issues, 

not 100% sure it was the screen despite what they said, i recon it was poss the ribbon cable loose on the motherboard end ,as i re terminated   that when i had it apart, as it looked angled  ,they only told me to do the screen end ,and it worked when i had the old screen on (didnt try  a print mind) , but changed it to the new one  ,will keep the old one as a spare as i suspect its fine,

the resins 35 quid for a 500g bottle so double for half as much, so i may not do it,but it does look good so maybe a bottle for my own stuff in the future,

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12 hours ago, Tractorman810 said:

The resins 35 quid for a 500g bottle so double for half as much, so i may not do it,but it does look good so maybe a bottle for my own stuff in the future,

Interesting, the stuff I'd seen was about £140 for 500g so that seems a bargain!

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1 hour ago, Stabliofarmer said:

Interesting, the stuff I'd seen was about £140 for 500g so that seems a bargain!

Yes and no i guess , for you its prob expensive given how much you do , it seems costly to me compared to 19 quid for 1kg i normally pay , but i wont  print anything near as much as you, so prob cheaper than i mentally think, test print came out ok, all the details are nice and visible 

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4 hours ago, James Joe Dewar said:

These are the most recent tyres I've printed useing PLA, 1400 LWS tyres, I sketched the rim's to fit them,

Regards

Joe

PLA tyre 1.JPG

PLA tyre 2.JPG

I'm impressed by the quality of those Joe! I'd imagined anything FLA rubber printed being a horrible stringy mess but they look fantastic

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22 hours ago, James Joe Dewar said:

Give it a go on your Ender3 useing flexible TPU Sean, Or none flexible PLA comes out really nice,And only £14.83 a kilo.

Regards

Joe.

not convinced i would get the tread detail to show joe, i did try it once ,and they were just black discs effectively, i may have a go with the resin, just to see how well they come out, but i do still have the moulds to cast more, its just a time thing, takes 30 mins to get 4 tyres casting, i did a print of 30 and it was 2 and 3/4 hours . the normal resins come out fine, but shrinks a little so they need sanding out in the middle, or redesigning, where as rubber would stretch that 1/4 mm out to fit . 

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1 hour ago, Tractorman810 said:

not convinced i would get the tread detail to show joe, i did try it once ,and they were just black discs effectively, i may have a go with the resin, just to see how well they come out, but i do still have the moulds to cast more, its just a time thing, takes 30 mins to get 4 tyres casting, i did a print of 30 and it was 2 and 3/4 hours . the normal resins come out fine, but shrinks a little so they need sanding out in the middle, or redesigning, where as rubber would stretch that 1/4 mm out to fit . 

If I can find a similar tyre out there I'll print one of  in both TPU and PLA to see how they come out,

Regards

Joe.

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1 hour ago, Stabliofarmer said:

I'm impressed by the quality of those Joe! I'd imagined anything FLA rubber printed being a horrible stringy mess but they look fantastic

PLA is a very nice filament to work with,'specially representing rubber as it has a nice dull appearance very much like rubber,TPU no matter what you do always comes out stringy, To be honest I'm surprised it gets pushed through the extruder as it has all the character of an elastic band, A wee bit like trying to push a length of string,:lol::lol:

Regards

Joe.

Edited by James Joe Dewar
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18 hours ago, Tractorman810 said:

not convinced i would get the tread detail to show joe, i did try it once ,and they were just black discs effectively, i may have a go with the resin, just to see how well they come out, but i do still have the moulds to cast more, its just a time thing, takes 30 mins to get 4 tyres casting, i did a print of 30 and it was 2 and 3/4 hours . the normal resins come out fine, but shrinks a little so they need sanding out in the middle, or redesigning, where as rubber would stretch that 1/4 mm out to fit . 

As promised two prints of a trailer tyre, which I did find eventually, The dull one is the PLA version, The shiney stringy one is flexible TPU, wheel / tyre dimensions are 30ml diameter by 14ml wide as per the ones on Andy Ingram's Stewart trailers, Annoyingly these look better in the flesh than in photo's probably due to the fact the 10  grooves / ridges are less than one ml wide, I have included a shot of the .stl file I used.

Regards

Joe

TPU v PLA 1.JPG

TPU v PLA 2.JPG

TPU v PLA 3.JPG

TPU v PLA 4.JPG

TPU v PLA 5.JPG

TPU v PLA 6.JPG

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Thought I'd put this here as it might be useful for anyone else interested in the World of 3D printing, pleased and amazed how well this sketch / print went, I noticed when I posted the pics, there were 2 or 3 flaws in it, The wheel track was to wide, and the front hydraulic steering was a mess, So I had to figure out how to bring the rims in closer to the chassis without reprinting both the front and rear axles, I figured recessing the hubs would do that by letting them go deeper into the rims, The yellow one is an original, The black one is shortened, to improved the hydraulic cylinders / rams I made U shaped brackets with little dimples on the inside to act as pivots instead of the huge pins on the originals, Hope that might be of some use to anyone with similar issues. And I straightened the air intake,:D

Regards

Joe

4400 fixed 1.JPG

4400 fixed 2.JPG

4400 fixed 3.JPG

4400 fixed 4.JPG

4400 finished 9a.JPG

Edited by James Joe Dewar
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37 minutes ago, Tractorman810 said:

Not touched mine in a month, currently doing my bathroom at weekends so no time . Got 8 kits printed and unmade  at the min along with 6 made and painted just no decals ect 

I guessed you must bereal busy just now, Noy seen you around here much in the past.

Regards

Joe.

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Let the Mayhem begin, First test print on my new resin printer a Geeetech Alkaid, only has a 190 x 130 x 82mm build plate, but I have no plans to create anything bigger than that anyway, Currently 33% through my first print Dragon, hopefully it will look like this when finished, But in grey, Must say, I'm not a huge fan of Chitubox, But that is what Geeetech specify,

Regards

Joe

Geeetech Alkaid.JPG

Geeetech Dragon.jpg

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dam saw red and asumed you're printing red resin, was then looking for some of that,but so far can only find red clear. i use chittabox, but the pro one, does cost a little (got 3 months free,then got a deal for 1 year) but i found it so much easier to use than the free one . tried a few others but found them easier to use

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Posted (edited)

Sorry for the grief Sean, Unfortunatle it didn't go well, I set it up, did the bed leveling, THen started one of the test prints on the SD stick, It seemed to be going fine until the print bed was above the side of the resin vat then I could see one side had come off the build plate, On later inspection I saw the screen protector was still on the LCD plate and it had a blue felt tipped pen line on it exactly where the print had peeled off the bed, Need to look into that tomorrow, The difference between FDM and Resin in like night and day, look at the claws and teeth on this test dragon,???

PS washed in warm soapy water, cured in natural sun light.

 

Regards

Joe.

Dragon 1.JPG

Edited by James Joe Dewar
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Posted (edited)
17 hours ago, Tractorman810 said:

dam saw red and asumed you're printing red resin, was then looking for some of that,but so far can only find red clear. i use chittabox, but the pro one, does cost a little (got 3 months free,then got a deal for 1 year) but i found it so much easier to use than the free one . tried a few others but found them easier to use

Have you tried 3DJake, he has quite a few different coloured resins including red and red clear

https://www.3djake.uk/resin/red-3d-printer-resin

I.ve just had a wee look through Jakes site, You can get Clear resin and resin colourants, So presumably you could mix up any colour or shade you might need, ??

https://www.3djake.uk/resin/colourants?f[57]=186

Regards

Joe.

Edited by James Joe Dewar
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Once you go to resin from fdm it hurts to go back. I've now got two huge elegoo machines as I'm doing work for some friends, but getting them to work consistently is a huge undertaking 

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yeah resin is a big step on fillament, but way better, i recon i wasted a good 2 bottles of resin before i got the settings right,  mostly  on small test ones, try downloading a test called cones,it allows you to alter it with small stuff to give the deffintio. to stuff,and getcyour exposures right.will look at jake 3d when i get a chance, just curious to see what shades are avaiable,maybe cut out the paint stage if i can 

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