FB Posted July 12, 2007 Share Posted July 12, 2007 Which would be good??, any ideas?? looking at the gas type (Solderpro 50 Gas SolderingIron Kit) ones for ease of use?? \ http://www.maplin.co.uk/Search.aspx?criteria=soldering&source=15&SD=Y Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
powerrabbit Posted July 12, 2007 Share Posted July 12, 2007 Not an expert on the subject but I do know that if you are intending to solder together white metal kits as opposed to glueing, it is very difficult as the metal will not take very much heat, therefore you need a very low temperature solder otherwise your kit will end up as just a puddle of melted down metal. On the other hand, if you intend to scratch-build with brass and/or copper the normal hobbies soldering equipment like an electric 'gun' or mini blowlamp type would be best as you have to get enough heat into the parts you intend to join. Solder types vary quite a bit, some have a higher lead content, some are lower, there are ready fluxed solders in the form of a 'wire' roll and bar solders but with brass soldering, the best would be plummers solder and even with the pre fluxed type it is always better to use flux paste from a tin as you can never be sure that there is adequate flux in the pre fluxed type of solder and with a good coating of flux on the joint you will get a better flow and end up using less solder and ultimately a better joint. I hope that the experts will agree. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kris Posted July 12, 2007 Share Posted July 12, 2007 If your soldering in a workshop i would probably go for a electronic one for ease of use and i think for white metal or brass etc i think not 100% a 60/40 solder is best. 1. Soldering. If you can master the art of soldering it is by far the quickest, neatest and strongest method of assembly, if you get it wrong a very precious kit can be written off! What you need to get started is a good quality soldering iron, this should be either a very low wattage, I recommend 15watt for most light assembly, or a variable power iron that will also tackle heavy sections. A stand incorporating a sponge for wiping the iron tip is useful. Only use very low melting point solder together with liquid flux, (see last page for suppliers). Initially practice on some scrap material, scrape clean the two surfaces to be soldered and apply a little flux with a plastic handled paintbrush, clean the tip of the hot iron on the wet sponge and pick up a little solder on the end of your iron. Apply the iron to the joint and hold there until the castings heat up sufficiently to allow the solder to run into the joint, allow to set and wash away any excess flux, (it is corrosive). The mistake most people make is to use a too powerful iron which put too much heat into the casting and melts it, by using a low power iron and low melting point solder you should never reach the melting point of the white metal. A 25watt iron will cope with thicker castings. Found that on a website too hope it helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FB Posted July 12, 2007 Author Share Posted July 12, 2007 ok, what about for soldering electrical components \ \ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kris Posted July 12, 2007 Share Posted July 12, 2007 just a normal solder its all fresh in my mind from my electronics classes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tractorman810 Posted July 12, 2007 Share Posted July 12, 2007 ok, what about for soldering electrical components \ \ yeah normal solder mate, with a fine tipped soldering iron, i got mine from maplins for 7 quid i think, has a nice fine point to it for delicate work like that sort of thing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FB Posted July 12, 2007 Author Share Posted July 12, 2007 yeah normal solder mate, with a fine tipped soldering iron, i got mine from maplins for 7 quid i think, has a nice fine point to it for delicate work like that sort of thing ok so back to my original question , is there one on the link in the first post you would recommend?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tractorman810 Posted July 12, 2007 Share Posted July 12, 2007 no mate go for a mains powered one, i have one of those gas ones at work, takes ages to heat up, and isnt that good for fine work, doesnt last to long either on the gas ,wouldnt have bought it my self having used one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FB Posted July 12, 2007 Author Share Posted July 12, 2007 no mate go for a mains powered one, i have one of those gas ones at work, takes ages to heat up, and isnt that good for fine work, doesnt last to long either on the gas ,wouldnt have bought it my self having used one cheers Sean, i'l try and get to maplin tomorrow if i can Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tractorman810 Posted July 12, 2007 Share Posted July 12, 2007 handy in an emergency like i use mine ,but not a general use soldering iron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kris Posted July 12, 2007 Share Posted July 12, 2007 that one http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?ModuleNo=4069&doy=12m7 or any of the mains powered ones Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BGU Posted July 12, 2007 Share Posted July 12, 2007 I had a little - cheap Maplins one for years. Does the job no problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FB Posted July 12, 2007 Author Share Posted July 12, 2007 yeah i dont need anything expensive to sit there for months not being used! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kris Posted July 12, 2007 Share Posted July 12, 2007 cheers Sean, i'l try and get to maplin tomorrow if i can Your best to get to maplins for one instead of ordering onlin i find its cheaper for some reason Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FB Posted July 19, 2007 Author Share Posted July 19, 2007 ok, having some trouble as i havent done this since i was 15!!!, solder seems to stick to the iron and can be hard to get on the wire - LED contact leg, think it may be the temp? (its on almost full whack!!)....and if i do, do it, it looks like a blob :D ..... any ideas.........pleeeeeeeeeeeeeeeease....otherwise i'll have to ask the father to do it for me! :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord Ferguson Posted July 19, 2007 Share Posted July 19, 2007 ok, having some trouble as i havent done this since i was 15!!!, solder seems to stick to the iron and can be hard to get on the wire - LED contact leg, think it may be the temp? (its on almost full whack!!)....and if i do, do it, it looks like a blob :D ..... any ideas.........pleeeeeeeeeeeeeeeease....otherwise i'll have to ask the father to do it for me! :D Wrong solder I would guess Ben... go for one that's got a flux built in it mate.. sounds like a flux free one you have... from my HIGHLY limited experience Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FB Posted July 19, 2007 Author Share Posted July 19, 2007 Wrong solder I would guess Ben... go for one that's got a flux built in it mate.. sounds like a flux free one you have... from my HIGHLY limited experience thought thats what i had \ \, trip to Maplin again tomorrow then :D...i hate that shop and some of the people!.....what is it you and Terry do in there :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Question
FB
Which would be good??, any ideas??
looking at the gas type (Solderpro 50 Gas SolderingIron Kit) ones for ease of use??
\
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Search.aspx?criteria=soldering&source=15&SD=Y
Link to comment
Share on other sites
16 answers to this question
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.