Jump to content
  • 0

painting models/buildings etc.


FB

Question

17 answers to this question

Recommended Posts

I usually use acrylics to paint my animals.I first paint the item with white glue then  I mix the paint with a bit of white school glue. (gives it a semi sheen). Maynot give the most durable finish, but there again I am not playing with them so it is okay for me.

Although I have tried this on the newer britains animals and it doesn't work, the surface is to slick. So may have to use oil paints on these.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would think regular model paints would be fine, I would buy matte though and then a clearcoat for them(semi-gloss). If all you have is gloss paints then a little talcum powder can help eliminate the shine.

Check out the animal section of the forum....some of me conversions are there (although pics are not the best)

http://www.britains-tractors.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=586.msg3762#msg3762

http://www.britains-tractors.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=600.0

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Use plastic primer for cars first

Then whatever you like to paint on top of it

(Trade secret)after spraying with primer you can use poster paint  costs hardley anything and its great for weathering a model

That's what my shed roof was done with

I allways found in the past that model paint was too expensive for large areas

      smurf ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i need help

what is the best temprature to spray paint your models?????????????

I'm with James... a good room temperature should do the trick.  When I want a quick dry I usually aim my desk lamp close enough to get the heat from the bulb (be careful if you do this though for obvious reasons) - works a treat mind you ;)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

If it's still running after all that effort 1/32 I would say the paint is too thin.  Light coats with just the right amount of thinners should never run - even if cold(ish) - I use humbrol enamel paint about 50/50 for airbrushing and with LIGHT coats I don't get runs  - good luck ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I assume that's from an aerosol can 1/32 - if it is try holding the can further away from the item you are spraying - If not you can buy some cheap airbrush kits that use a can of pure air as the propellant so you don't need to invest in compressor as well - I would give that a try with thinned down humbrol if all else fails. ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

thanks marky f will try that

now trying to draw up plans for a new workshop and i think i will make a spraying room and keep it at the right temp 25:c ;) ;)

I keep my workshop at room temperature all the time 24/7 - Mines in a garage so I've lined the roof, fitted a loft hatch and laid plenty of insulation so it's not too expensive to heat all the time.  My theory is that if all the metal objects in the workshop are allowed to cool it will cost a bomb to re-heat them again (probably a crap theory - but I'm happy !).

Overspary is a problem if your going to keep other things in your workshop - And getting enough natural light (everything I spray looks great under flourescent light - but crap when I get it outside in the daylight).  And finally dust - most things I spary end up with little specs of wood or some other contaminate in them because I did'nt clean up enough before spraying - you'll need a good hoover ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When I'm spraying, usually with a can, I spray very light coats from a fair distance, say about a foot or fourteen inches, and try to spray each area just once. Ten just build it up using several coats. This way I usually avoid runs, but if they do happen, it sometimes helps to blow hard on it to try push it to the edge or just until it spreads a little. The thing to remember about having the paint or the workpiece warm is that it will make the paint even more runny.  Mark is right about specks of dirt, which can be pretty annoying, but I usually only get them when brush painting. Another good tip is to get a shaving brush, you know the type for putting on shaving foam, and use it to clean the models. It works better than anything else I've ever tried

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I keep my workshop at room temperature all the time 24/7 - Mines in a garage so I've lined the roof, fitted a loft hatch and laid plenty of insulation so it's not too expensive to heat all the time.? My theory is that if all the metal objects in the workshop are allowed to cool it will cost a bomb to re-heat them again (probably a crap theory - but I'm happy !).

Overspary is a problem if your going to keep other things in your workshop - And getting enough natural light (everything I spray looks great under flourescent light - but crap when I get it outside in the daylight).? And finally dust - most things I spary end up with little specs of wood or some other contaminate in them because I did'nt clean up enough before spraying - you'll need a good hoover ;)

how do you use the hover????? if found using it might have to do house work yukyuk ;) ;) ;) ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Answer this question...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.