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Stabliofarmer

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Posts posted by Stabliofarmer

  1. I will also add that if anyone is looking for the strongest/best option for the kits you want Tensol 12 Plastic Adhesive. It's specifically formulated for gluing cast acrylic sheet (which is what the kits are cut from). It's abit more viscus than plastiweld etc and also has a longer work time, say 30-60 seconds before it grips and another minute or two before you can't split a part. But once its cured (72hrs) you'll break the acrylic around the joint long before the bonded area gives up. I used it on the very first run of 10 Bailey trailers I did and it worked very well. I don't advertise it as it's not readily available and has abit too much of an industrial feel/look for the average modeler to pick up and use.

    41g21m5l9zL._SY445_SX342_QL70_ML2_.jpg

    • Like 1
  2. Interesting stuff Peter, just ordered a bottle to see for myself.

    I've used EMA Plastiweld for fifteen years now and wouldn't opt for anything else when it comes to modelling in Styrene however I found it incredibly poor at adhering Acrylic plastic despite stating it can on the box, hence why I've never recommended a solvent cement in the manuals. Gorilla super glue is the most readily available option I know of that works but its very fast setting with no mercy when taking apart, which is tricky for beginners hence the option of Revell Contacta, however I'll boot them both down the list on the manuals if this Deluxe works as well as you say!

    Thank you for sharing the information, I take on all feedback and put it back into the products to make them as good as they can be.

  3. 10 hours ago, 844john said:

    Thanks Jack, it wasn’t a good day for painting as the damp atmosphere left a dull finish as it dried, but for ageing that actually works in your favour as you don’t have to rub the model down to get rid of the shine👍

    You learn something new everyday! That would explain why everything was drying with a flat finish yesterday while trying to paint in the constant rain. Unfortunately I wasn't looking for the weathered effect. Will give it another coat now the suns out.

    Loving the Econ setup and as usual the outside shots set everything off beautifully 

    • Like 2
  4. 17 hours ago, phil phoenix said:

    More Braemere, finished the dual axle bale trailer on saturday. Needed a mod to the drawbar James as it sits to low for my UH & Ros tractors, it ends up with the front wheels off the ground when glued as suggested.  Also the wheel holes aren't low enough, or tyres are too big as they nearly touched the flatbed until I modified them lower. Pictures attached.

    P1000458.JPG

    Thanks for the feedback Phil, this was the original kit so is probably ready for an overhaul, add in a range of headboards and it suddenly becomes a much more versatile kit! All the newer kits have a different suspension set up that lets the front axle rise up and down in a slot to stay on the floor. First I've heard of the wheels though with over 100 of them out there.

    • Like 1
  5. Hi Mike, hopefully this thread is helpful, not masses about the printing process but the video I've linked explains all of that

    This is the most recent water slide paper I've purchased

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/314337354996

    Advantages

    -Thin, when done right a waterslide decal can be barely visible

    -Easy to apply, applied over water you get plenty of time and freedom to move the decal around before setting by dabbing with a paper towel.

    -Fast to get exactly what you want, whether you need one decal or 100.

    Disadvantages

    -The manufacturing process can be hit and miss

    -They can be fragile

    -They don't particularly like light or moisture so if you're models are all in a shed or in direct sunlight expect a few issues later down the line.

  6. 14 hours ago, Jack390 said:

    Looks great, I have one that is nearly ready for painting. Did you have take the rams apart to paint them ?

    A quick run of masking tape around the upper sections should be suitable but it's just as fast to push the two upper sections out of the bottom, paint the bottom, and then push the two upper sections back in. Just make sure you don't loose the two copper spacers inside the ram!

    • Like 2
  7. I don't think it's a reaction between tyre and board Joe, more a bad batch of tyres. I have found the Wiese Deutz 6175 Warrior I have also has a bad batch and looking at photos I think it was the whole run of them that are slightly tacky to the touch and remain glossy/shiny looking. I assume its someone got something alittle wrong with the plastic mix when moulding, or a release agent reaction. From casting resin and rubber I have certainly found the more rubbery plastics to be more volatile/ loss forgiving if you don't get the mix just right. 

  8. That's just gone straight on my list of must visit places. The Europeans really are leagues ahead when it comes to diorama making!

    Thank you for taking the time to take and share the photos Barry

    • Like 1
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