WHITESNAKE01

Hi, Just run into this question: i'm using paints from Zero-Paints, UK-based manufacturer. Have very good experiences with their products, although they mainly produce for car- and racing-industry. The range of paint-products regarding agricultural and earth-moving equipment are increasing over the last years, making me a happy customer! Best regards, Jan

Hi all, Bought myself the new CaseIH 845XL PLUS from my regular supplier yesterday. Made by Replicagri. Although they've made some excellent CaseIH / IH-models, this one has at least one major fault: its drive-shaft to the front-wheel-driven axle should be a centred one, not the old version which is mounted beside the body........... And thus the FWD-axle should also be a newer version, meaning to be the center driven one......... Only older versions have this configuration................ That's a pitty i.m.h.o. The rear mudguards in this conversion, being longer at the back, bending downwards, were typically for the German and Dutch market, as far as i know. French and UK-versions were shorter. On the other hand: it's one that definitely belongs to my collection, since it's the last model of the 845's i've worked with during my era at the Dutch importer Boeke-Heesters back in te 90's! Best regards, Jan

Hi all, @justy 46: You're absolutely right there Justin! The rims which are on the brochure-tractor most definitely were the ones on the Landini i've worked with, although that was fitted with larger size wheels, which resulted in a higher transport-speed. These rims probably were used also on the Massey-Ferguson-version, as i remember the Fergusons had these rims on a lot of their models too. Or do i speak rubbish now........? 🤔 The number of wheelbolts also do not match the wheels i've used. But my most important criterion was the size. The original wheels which were on the (MF-)model simply were too small, and of a different type rim. Of course i would've prefered wheels which were as the original, but that combination turned out to be untraceable. But anyway, thanks for noticing! Best regards, Jan

Hi all, Thank you John! Stay tuned, the day is coming it will be finished! In the meantime you might wanna take a look at the whole process over here: https://modelbrouwers.nl/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=54085 Although it's in Dutch language, the process is filled with a lot of pictures! Best regards, Jan

Hi all, @JEP: This is a bulldozer in scale 1/24. The current conversion is made by AMT, and originally it was put on the market as Caterpillar. Also by AMT. Probably the license had run out of date in the meantime, so now the kit is called "Construction Bulldozer". Best regards, Jan

Hi all, Working on the Caterpillar D8H, and in between the Landini-project, the process continues in a slow but steady speed. At the moment the body is finished, cab was already finished, but i need to do the last step; airbrushing and assembling the tracks. Each single part needs to be primered and painted in yellow before assembling and mounting to the body. When assembling the tracks some small pieces of paint are falling off, and thus there's the need to "repair damage" after mounting. So after mounting, the yellow has to be finished locally, and as a final finish the laquer has to be sprayed. I think it is wise to cover the body before re-spraying yellow and laquer, but first the last pieces of tracks need to be done. Each side covers 42 pieces............. But okay, here's a view of one side mounted, the other will follow in time, but enjoy with me the current status as shown here. Best regards, Jan

Hi all, Thanks for your compliments! @Nigel: indeed, this is scale 1/32. The wheels i've purchased from a French supplier, Artisan 32. A bit more specific: HERE you can find them. Size is 52 x 14 mm's. They come by pair, including the rims. Do you happen to have a web-link to your windscreen-wipers, as spare part, perhaps? On your website i only could find the complete kit of the Track Marshall, but these double-arm wipers would indeed fit properly! Although ordering and sending to the Netherlands might be quite expensive and difficult these days............ Many thanks in advance! Best regards, Jan

Hi all, And finally, she's ready. Just one more tiny little thing to complete by mounting a windshield-wiper on the front windscreen, but first i have to find that in a nice fitting scale. And maybe some front mudguards would be nice too....... Here are the pictures of the result: Found a better place to make pictures: my spray-booth (airbrush-booth): Múch better light! Have a nice day! Best regards, Jan

Hi all, As announced on the website of Toys Farm Farm Toys, Italian based ROS is bringing Limited Editions of these tractors in 2022; - Hürlimann H6136: https://toys-farm.com/nl/verzamel-landbouw-miniaturen-1-32-per-fabrikant/ros-farmer-schaalmodellen-in-1-32/ros-hurlimann-h-6136-limited-edition-300-pieces-1-32/a-53439-10000101 - Lamborghini 1506-T: https://toys-farm.com/nl/verzamel-landbouw-miniaturen-1-32-per-fabrikant/ros-farmer-schaalmodellen-in-1-32/ros-lamborghini-1506-t-limited-edition-350-pieces-1-32/a-53441-10000101 - Lamborghini 1706-T: https://toys-farm.com/nl/verzamel-landbouw-miniaturen-1-32-per-fabrikant/ros-farmer-schaalmodellen-in-1-32/ros-lamborghini-1706-t-limited-edition-350-pieces-1-32/a-53444-10000101 - Same Laser 130: https://toys-farm.com/nl/verzamel-landbouw-miniaturen-1-32-per-fabrikant/ros-farmer-schaalmodellen-in-1-32/ros-same-laser-130-limited-edition-500-pieces-1-32/a-53447-10000101 - Same Laser 150-T: https://toys-farm.com/nl/verzamel-landbouw-miniaturen-1-32-per-fabrikant/ros-farmer-schaalmodellen-in-1-32/ros-same-laser-150t-limited-edition-500-pieces-1-32/a-53448-10000101 - Same Galaxy 170T: https://toys-farm.com/nl/verzamel-landbouw-miniaturen-1-32-per-fabrikant/ros-farmer-schaalmodellen-in-1-32/ros-same-galaxy-170t-1-32/a-53449-10000101 Pictures courtessy of Toys Farm Farm Toys. Best regards, Jan

Hi all, Thank you guys for your replies! Hope you enjoy what's being produced! The next challenge were the steps. Made of square tubes in real life, but i didn't have anything which suited that. So there's nothing left (again....) to scratch something, and to be honest: it really isn't that hard. You just take a piece of round iron wire, thick enough, two hammers with one of them in a vice, and a great part of patience and a sharp view to produce your own square rod. The individual steps i've made of a narrow strip of plastic mesh material i purchased to make a realistic grille for my Caterpillar D8H (maybe i should open a Post on that one someday....🤔). Some images of the process: Glueing them to the bottom of the cabin, i realized they're mounted in a small angle, so that ultimately had to be done in the latest step. Scratch-made mirrors don't function without a real (looking) mirror-glass off course, so that part was done also today: A tiny piece of a chromed sticker i once saved for issues as this! 😉 Perfectionism will pay off in the end........🤣 Have yourself a nice weekend!! Best regards, Jan

Hi, Can i just give you a tip in what paint stripper i'm using? I've been struggling this subject years ago, using paint strippers from the lumberyards, but this quality just sucks. 😡 So i finally found me a much better solution for this: i visit the local car damage repair company, and ask them to sell me just about a liter or so from the paint stripper they use. And thát is form a professional quality, and thát is what one remarks!! The paint is off in minutes!!!! But beware: only to be used on die-cast-models. Any plastic will be useless after it gets in contact with this liquid......... Just to give you an idea, here's a YouTube-video i once made: https://youtu.be/DxVddDElpEA Best regards, Jan

Hi all, As time goes by, the process is moving forward. In fact, in real time faster than in the version on the Forum here 😉 Some images to show: The front-axle was originally a four-wheel-drive, but the one i'm building / adapting is meant to be two-wheeldrive. So the front-axle needs to be replaced, also by a version supplied by Artisan32: But since these tyres are too wide according to my whish (ánd memory), they also need to be replaced. And here again Artisan32 has the needed versions: The same goes for the rear wheels: Whether you might get the idea i have some shares in Artisan32: no, i haven't! 😉🤣 Th grille in the right setting and color went to look like this: And "dry-fitting" the interior, it occurs that a decent dashboard is needed also: Last bit for today: the cab is supplied with glazing, used from a package in which was somekind of toy. The rear window has to be in an opened position and therefor needs gas-struts, as did the roof-hatch: Just to give you an idea about the size, a match is laid aside. And, what's a cabin without a radio in it??? To be continued. Best regards, Jan

Hi James, I'm a big fan of all products of Zero Paints, located somewhere in the UK, but supplied by a local Dutch supplier over here. They make a wide range of colors, and are increasing their products in the "agricultural" and "earth-moving"-equipment! All pre-thinned and ready-to-use from the bottle! Although this white primer i just thinned a bit more. Here's their website: https://www.zero-paints.com/ Best regards, Jan

Hi all, And we continue our journey with adaptation of the cabin. The original one is really quite simple, so it needs a re-configuration: a roof hatch which is opened, as well as gas-struts to it, and hand-rails on the inside to get in and out comfortably. Glazing had to be applied, but this is done after painting. The inside of the cabin also needs a canopy. Pictures show the process: I didn't like the grille in the bonnet at all, it simply was a sticker, so again i was triggered to make a more realistic version here: And so, after some real "modelling activities", we're ready for primering, put on by airbrushing: To be continued......... BR Jan

Hi again, And as we continue, the first thing to build, but not on pictures here to see, was the rear hitch and drawbar. This was made from a kit from Artisan32, a French company which makes a lot of stuff one can use for building and detailling agricultural models. The version i've used was this one: To make a toy change into a serious scale-model, this is a first priority i.m.h.o. Then there's this issue about the interior of the cab, there's simply nothing in it which is like the real thing. So there's a lot to do! And i hope it's quite obvious to see, but i'm a BIG fan of details! It's sometimes really hard to do because some parts are really too small to hold in your hands, you definitely need a pair of tweezers, but in the end...............i just love it!! The seat i've used was a left-over from a Zetor-building-kit i've built last year, made by a Czech supplier. For those of you who would like to take a look ahead in the proces: take a look at my scale-modelling website: https://modelbouwjan.jouwweb.nl/landbouwminiaturen-trekkers/landini-6550-veloxdrive-1-32 There's a whole lot more to see there, you know.....😉 To be continued.............. Best regards, Jan

Hi all, As i've worked on dairy farms in my puberty an adolesence-time, i recall fine memories from working on a local farm using a Landini 6550 VeloxDrive. So, collecting scalemodels with which i have a certain affinity, there should simply be a model of that type Landini. But as you all probably know, there aren't that much scalemodels of Landini tractors. So that kind of leaves the only possibilty to try to make one yourselfs. For that reason i purchased a model made by ROS, a Massey Ferguson 1014, since these models look quite the same, in real life as on scale. That purchase may be some 15 years ago, but it always was there, in the back of my mind, that the day would arrive to start re-shaping it to the Landini 6550. In the mean time i'm about four weeks busy now, and the result is coming to what i want it to be. Time for some pictures now: First of all some pictures of the original model from ROS, the MF1014: Seems ther even was a collectors-set with a tracked-version, as shown above. Now, dis-assembling wasn't that hard to do, but there was still a lot to re-shape, so saw and hand-file were needed a lot. For instance i assembled and mounted a drawbar and hitch (European version) to make the model look more realistic, and no longer a toy. This is a picture i made from the frontpage of an original leaflet, which i collected bakc then, which shows the 1:1-version, almost like the one i've worked with: Next thing to do is to put the die-cast body and parts into the paint-remover. Back when i've worked in a trading company which imported and recovered tractors, i got to know the difference between the paint remover sold at lumberyards, and the professional version a simple consumer cannot get anywhere. Well, that made a hell of a lot difference. So, starting to work on the Landini-project, i dsicovered my stock was down to zero, and i had to visit a local car damage repair company, and ask them to sell me some new paint remover of professional quality. Simply because that does do the trick in minutes! Here's the result:

Hi all, Seems Replicagri will bring a CaseIH 845 XLA "Plus" version this year, due to news from Toys Farm Farm Toys: https://toys-farm.com/nl/verzamel-landbouw-miniaturen-1-32-per-fabrikant/replicagri-landbouwminiaturen-in-1-32/replicagri-case-international-845-xl-plus-1-32/a-53658-10000100 Definitely one for my collection!!! BR Jan

Hi, Can i jsut ask: who's make are these Kverneland ploughs? Look very nice!! BR Jan

Sean, just a question: what wheels have you been using now on the back? From which model do they come originally? Looks great!! BR Jn

Hi, Well, i guess a spray-container in your desired color can solve that problem. Doesn't it? 😉

20ft container, 1/32, made by MarGe models: And there's another one also, supplied by a German supplier:

Hi, Well, regarding printing White, that indeed is only possible with the unaffordable printer Joe says. So i had to find another possibility. Since there are two sorts of waterslide-decalsheets, namely Transparent or White-based, i choose the White-based version for whenever i need someting which has the white color in it. For example: i'm making the building-kit of the Caterpillar D8, bought me years ago a half-built copy secondhand, and there where no decals with it anymore. No problem, i can make them myself! As mentioned in another topic, also started by Joe, i recommend the programm "InkScape", which i use for something over a year now after my computer crashed and i lost my Illustrator-app. Whenever you need to have white fonts on a colored background, as Joe's example here above, i make the colored background first and then put the needed text in it, making the textcolor white! That way you can easily place the text where you want it. I'll show you the picture of the Cat-logo i've made in InkScape below: As you can see it is printed on White waterdecalsheet, leaving it to dry white after assembling. Right underneath the logo you'll see a small piece which i've cut out, that's where the type-numbering will be, but this is meant to be having the yellow background. So that number "D8H" i will print separate on a piece of Transparent decalsheet, and place it afterwards in the niche. The "old" CAT-logo i've designed using the drawing function, drawing a black square, a white circle and two black stripes. Just place them as you like to get the logo as it needs to be. Any questions, don't hesitate! Best regards, Jan

Hi there, I've been making my own decals for about some 20 years now. Originally using Adobe Illustrator, but after a computer-crash i've lost my copy. So i had to look for something else which apparently became the app "InkScape". Probably not to mention i'm using an iMac, since the Mac's simply give better results in these fields of work, according to everybody who works with it. The problem you might have with these fonts Joe (Catkom3), is that they seem to be like a ".jpeg"-file. The biggest disadvantage of that, is that these files are built-up from small pixels, which results in a worse visibility when you decrease them. Increasing them leads to un-sharpness also. I took a small example from the decals on your Claas combine, and there it shows quite good: The "CLAAS" word is very sharp (yes i know, it's original!), but the "Hay Farms" and the street name (if that's what it is) are un-sharp. What you need to have is a program which works with so-called "vector-files". Meaning that the files e.g. fonts and pictures always stay sharp, whether you increase or decrease them. It has no effect on the sharpness and visibility. I can recommend InkScape to you. I'm using this now for over a year, and i'm very happy with the results, although Illustrator remains my favorit! Another large advantage of InkScape is that it's freeware! So you can download it for free!! Here's the link: https://inkscape.org/nl/download/ Another thing which is of direct influence, is how your printer is set for printing: i always use a high resolution for printing on decalsheets, just in order to get the best results. Choosing another version of paper might be also affecting the result. To go short: trial and error is my method and i ALWAYS make some examples on normal white paper before printing on decalsheets. Good luck!! Best regards, Jan

Hi all, Well, i don't know whether it's allowed (still i think it is!), but on my workbench at the moment is a bulldozer, the Caterpillar D8H, scaled down to 1:25. There was this building kit in the '60's, but since a few years it re-appeared again, now being called "Construction Dozer", without the original Caterpillar'-logo on the box. In the years before it re-appeared i was lucky to be able to take-over a half-built copy from an older man, who wasn't able to finish it because of an illness. His daughter, who came at the door, told me they really would like to sell the half-built-model to a real enthousiast. Well, they succeeded in that!! On the Dutch model-builders-forum you might want to take a look at the building-process i'm going through, this is the link: https://modelbrouwers.nl/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=54085 Allthough the text is written in Dutch, the pictures may also be telling the story. When you prefer to only look at pictures, without a lot of text, than take a look at my own website: https://modelbouwjan.jouwweb.nl/grondverzetmachines/caterpillar-d8h-bulldozer My ultimate goal is to eventually build me two dozers: one being the D8H, for which i've also build a cabine, and the next project will be built out of the box of a new one, but being upgraded to the D8K-version. When everything finally comes together as planned in my head, it will be amazing. But, the judgement is also up to you! Just one picture of the state of the project so far: Best regards, Jan