powerrabbit

An interesting subject as I know a few that do this, mostly ameture photographers and a couple of professional ones. From what I have been told from these people is that the best way to go about making a little money from them is to take pictures with certain people in mind that you could offer them to, a specific market if you like. For example, a freind of mine whilst visiting the Met Office in Exeter, took a picture of the sun reflected in the glass frontage of the building and the light defraction of the sun in the glass panels gave the affect of rays radiating from the sun, one of the top men at the Met Office spotted the picture and made my friend a very handsom offer for it, I think this picture, blown up and printed now in large poster size is now in the main lobby of the building. One thing you must do though if you are selling your pics, is to retain your 'copyright' so that only you can say how and by who they can be used unless you yourself give them specific permission. Copyright in itself also has a value. I would at first when offering pics for sale just print out an 'example' print or 'proof' for your client or potential buyer to evaluate for themself and then if you get a firm order then print it on quality photographic paper. You yourself can determine your charges depending on the size of the print and wheather you will supply them framed or not as this will be an extra cost to you that you will need to calculate into your end price.

Providing they model from a tractor that is actually fitted with all original and correct parts all secured and joined up in the right places. And you could say the same for all other models they produce.

The majority of employers normaly look at your CV as a 'first stage' which gives them a general idea of your suitability for employment and will draw up a 'short-list' of applicants accordingly and then will begin going though the list by inviting the applicant to attend an interview in which then he/she will ask you questions such as 'what is your salary expectations?', 'what do you believe you can bring to the buisness?', 'do you work well in a team?', 'do you work well under pressure?'. If you think about what questions you may be asked, in an interview you can sometimes cover most of these before they are asked, you often know how an interview has gone by the number of questions you are asked. Another thing to consider when attending an interview, get there in plenty of time, dress for the occasion, very smart or suited and booted never goes amiss, first impression in your potential employers eyes when you enter the interview will count a lot in your favour, don't go in wearing any body adornments like studs and earrings. I know we're discussing CV's but it doesn't hurt to look at the wider picture, doing so could get you your dream job.

A camera that is fitted with a good quality lense is also pretty important, something like a Carl Zeise and make sure there's no dust or damp on the lense when taking pics. Higher DPI resolution setting will also improve it.

I think this topic should be subtitled 'the apprentice, FTF style'.

With prices for models as they are accuracy and build quality is the most important criteria but I think that minor inaccuracy's may be forgiven as sometimes they can, with a little care and a dab of paint here and there, be rectified. As I said previously, I bought all three models in this 'range', both 990's and the Oliver and at a very reasonable price of £50 each with no post or packing charges as I picked them up direct from my 'supplier'. That price is £8 above cost of wholesale so if you look around at the price other suppliers are selling for you'll get an idea of what their mark-up is.

Mark. My Sister-in-law is always writing up her CV and sending off and being Russian always needs a bit of help with it. Anyway, first thing is type it on good quality paper and make sure that your spelling is absoluteley correct and the grammer, put your commas, full stops and apostraphies in the correct places. Start by 'introducing' yourself and write down any interests you have in relation to the job you are applying for, where you were educated and list your education qualifications, why you are applying for the post, your previous work and experience and what you believe you can bring to the job. Don't be afraid to 'glamourise' it a little but don't go over the top and keep it relatively short and to the point. Always send your CV to a prospective employer by first class post unless they say otherwise and it's always a good idea to have copies of your education certificates, GCSE's, diplomas, University degrees etc and any other educational awards so that if you are called in for an interview they will see that you have given it thought and are well prepared. Others will no doubt add more here for you.

I don't think there is a single David Brown model Oliver that is precise in detail and in whatever scale produced and in my opinion the main reason being the difficulty in replicating components exactly as they are on the real thing mainly because of the practacality of strength and build of the model, there has to be a certain amount of compramise on this. However, this does not excuse parts of the models that I described as wrong, and these parts, which can be levelled at most models especially the vintage and classics, are wrong because the real tractors that they have been replicated from have been restored with 'spurious' parts that are either not as original but have been added by the restorer. Back in the earlier years a lot of models were reproduced by using a set of blueprints and measurements from the original manufacturers of the real thing which unfortunately does not happen now so concequently there is a certain amount of 'guess work' in it so you can't really blame the modellers, if there is anyone to blame, it's the restorer of the real tractor who either does no research into what replacement parts should be fitted or just fit parts that will do just that, fit. If you are looking for a David Brown model that is as accurate as it can be, there is one exception,with the producers actually researching the real tractor and knowing what should or should not be on it then the best ones to collect are the D.B. models from Martin and Ged Leftly, G&M Originals, yes, they are quite expensive but you are paying for a model that is all hand built to an exacting standard and when you know how much time and work goes into creating these models then the price they are will come into perspective and will in the not too distant future be of greater intrinsic value as they are quite unique and very limited in production numbers. I'm afraid that you have to pay for quality.

No Nathan, picked them up from Ed on his way to Malvern Friday morning early, met him down at MVF in Heathfield. Incedentally, the Exeter toyfair has just about had it now not being at Westpoint anymore and no-one is going to go to the racecourse alternative, too many punters and not enough room for stallholders and punters as well, too many complaints from both sides. Newton Abbot racecourse fair seems the only bigger local option now and you know the size of that one. There's fairs being held at the Matford Centre as well now.

I now have both examples, the Selectamatic and Implematic 990. Although they are both very accurate in the main there are things on both models that I can see are not quite right. The Implematic is the most accurate but this model is a 'second series' tractor that was manufactured from 1962/3 and not as UH state on the box 1961. This model had a longer wheelbase, the front casting being 2 inches longer to accommodate the front mounted 12 Volt battery, the previous model had 2 6 Volt batteries, one each side of the seat in the cross-box. Another fault is the fixing position of the sway chains on the lift arms, they were never anchored to the drawbar. Another fault is that the heavy electric battery cable from the starter motor is trailing to the rear, it should be going to the front where the battery should be. The 'High-Low' gear lever is too long also. I have not unscrewed these models from the boxes so I can't comment at the moment on the underside. Faults on the white 990 are, no front grille securing fastener representation, radiator bonnet flap not silvered, top link clevice 90 degrees out, 'High-Low' gear lever too long, rear wheel centres should be the same as the red model, battery cable on the starter trailing the wrong direction, reflectors on mudguards too high, 12 speed decal on the grille should be six speed as there is not a 3rd gear lever on the box, toolbox mounted in the wrong position, louvre bar pressings on the sides of the bonnet nosecone too far forward. Sway chains anchorage should be under the PTO housing, not on the drawbar. Seat cushion piping should be yellow not white, no engine stop control.

Looks like BFA copied the rear wheels for the 165 from the Corgi Toys 65, they do look wrong! They would look better even if they had fitted PVAT wheels, the centres look a bit too deep to me.

UH David Brown Impleatic and the Selectamatic 990's also the Oliver 600 in 1:16. Britains 1:32 International 956XL and the Case IH 1056XL. Both these from Trago Mills who are selling them for £14.99 each. Plus I bought the Britains red Land Rover 90 with Ifor Williams canopy from there as well at £11.99.

Nothing wrong with crawler tractor models, in fact I'd go as far as saying that this particular model is one of the best I've seen to date and being made for a particular Club and US market there weren't an awful number that washed up on these shores. Desirability and true value can probably only be acertained in how many are still in circulation on the market and length of time past since released. I'm predicting that it will sell very quickly.

I seem to recall that this model was made exclusively for The Caterpillar Collectors Club of Ohio and were limited. The one I have is in its box with its display case and at the time I bought it, when they were first issued, I found it in an obscure listing title on eBay and secured it for £20. Those that were listed in 'diecast and models' on eBay at that time were mostly on 'buy it now' format for between £65 and £80. I would think that a complete as new still in the box and perspex display case example would be worth anything above £100 but it's like everything, depends what anyone is prepared to pay. Must say though that it is a cracking detailed and very heavy model especially good with the individually pinned metal tracks.

A very good model but I shall not be adding it to my extensive D.B. model collection. I have the pair of 770's, the white one as well. If any fault can be levelled at the 885 the only ones would be the vertical seam line on the bonnet side panells, which should not be there, and the headlamps are a little too far back and the rear light pods on the mudguards should be black, the front ones were white and correct. The front axle is wrong, it's the same as on the 770's, (the 780 also had this type of front axle) it should be the same as on an 880, termed as the 'fabricated' axle. It would not be fair to fault the canopy as these were fitted on David Brown tractors for the European export market. I would say that this model 885 has been created using the same castings used for the 770's with just the tinwork being re-modelled. Thanks for the detailed review Niels.

There are loads of David Brown films available. Have you looked on the D.B. Club website?, they have about 14 different ones most of which are the original official promotional films that were produced over the years that were distributed to the dealers to put on film shows at their open evenings and as a sales promotion aid.

Call them rocks? That's nothing, this is what we have to work around, can't shift them to the headland!

Looks to me Bill like a horse drawn hoe especially with the winged feet. Looks like the frame rotates when you lift the handle which allows it to bring into operation the normal scuffle feet which are in-line so it 'doubles up' as both a precision hoe and a scuffle. I would say that it is a working model made by a blacksmith/ agric engineer as a prototype to be shown to a prospective manufacturer to buy the 'right' or patent to and manufacture to full size scale, single horse drawn and would date from around the 1870's to the very early 1900's. A local agric engineer old family firm that I have known and delt with for years, the originator of this firm was an avid inventor and he made several 'working' models like this, he invented the horse hay rake, the 'extendable' one of which he sold the patent to Huxtables.

Steve Flowers does the metal ones but I know not what the quality is like. You very often find cheap 'breakers' in boxes of miscellaneous at the toy fairs, at least you could this way find original parts.

Lee, when you are on the 'view item' page, click on 'bids' number and on the page that comes up click on 'show automatic bids'. Take notice of the date and times that one or another individual has submitted a bid, this will explain things a bit better and will also give you a good guide on how much more you are prepared to go. If you see that one person has seemingly bid the same amount twice, this means that they have in fact put in a higher bid than that shown, you won't know what that bid was untill someones bids above.

I also had trouble with pictures from listings not loading, the circle of 'petals' kept 'revolving' but picture failed to load. seems to be ok now, may be a problem with the site. Also a few weeks ago found that when I submitted a bid the same thing was happening, would not advance to the next stage and lost a few items through that. Has anyone noticed that you can no longer 'enlarge' the picture/s when you view a listing?

Wasn't there another that was covered with sunflowers, or was that a different make? Supposed to of represented the tractor that ran on fuel made from sunflower seed oil. Example of which is somewhere in the pile of my collection. Don't see many of them now. I like the quirky ones, the cow print one also springs to mind.

For those of you that have a picture card driving license, take a look at it to see when your photo was taken. Apparently, if it has been 10 years, you are driving on an expired licence. Read on...................... http://money.aol.co.uk/2012/01/04/driving-licence-could-cost-you-1k/?icid=maing-grid7%7Cuk%7Cdl4%7Csec1_lnk2%26pLid%3D90789

A normal production number would be as many as they can bang out as long as they keep selling well or until replaced by a newer model or version. Anything that sells poorly becomes limited by default and becomes classed as 'rare'.

A very emotive and contraversial subject. To me, a limited edition should be no more than 1000 pieces produced for the World market, should carry a number on the model and a corresponding number on the box and paperwork to authenticate this. There are numerous manufacturers that release 'limited' models of a colour variant although the base model is in fact a general release one, this is wrong and is no more than a marketing trick. As for limited models that cost the collector a 3 figure price or more, we have to consider the cost to the manufacturer/maker/producer of doing all the research, building and casting the master and everything else that's involved, I can tell you, it aint cheap!, take for example the G&M Originals, the tyres alone cost them £80 a model, so take this into consideration before having a deep intake of breath when you see the price tag. I would myself rather have one 3 figure priced limited model rather than spending the same amount on 5 of the same model that has just been painted a different colour and called limited.