MODELFARMER Posted January 22, 2012 Share Posted January 22, 2012 Hi all I was thinking of buying a hydraulic top link for my 6930 Deere, I want it for the plough, JD want £700 Vapormatic is less than £400 does anyone use one? 1st worth the money? 2nd are they strong enough? EG I dont want to be picking my plough up in bits off the road Main reason for wanting is to leave ends of fields neater for ploughing across headlands, eg lift front out 1st and drop the back furrow in last by lengthening/shortening the toplink on the move Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pingu Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 (edited) What size plough? If designed for capacity of a 69 both shouldn't have any problems with a 5 furrow if your using a normal JD toplink think you'll find a hydraulic top link one stronger. But you have to be covering serious acres for it to be worth the investment and in my experience and view point any less then 6 furrows your headlands should be neat enough without hydraulic top link unless your match ploughing Edited January 23, 2012 by Pingu Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gav836 Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 A good ploughman would be able to get the headlands level without a hydraulic top link If you get the ins and outs right its easy to get a level headland, even on the short work or when not pulling out square to the headland. There's a much cheaper and easier way of getting the latter level with no need for hydraulic top links. They do have their place with the use of larger ploughs like Phill says or with sub-soilers in dry conditions but on a 4f plough I personally can't see the need for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MODELFARMER Posted January 28, 2012 Author Share Posted January 28, 2012 Ploughing the headland level is no problem, its the 2 painful runs bumping across it i want to eliminate by being able to drop the front furrow in and letting the back down when a few feet further forward then i can maintain 5-6mph when ploughing across the headlands without being thrown about the cab Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niels Posted January 28, 2012 Share Posted January 28, 2012 Your 6930 is likely to have external controls on the mudguard for at least one hydraulic valve? Stick the hydraulic top link on that and it will safe you a few hours per year on shortening and enlarging the toplink. For that reason alone I love it! Doesn't really get used for much else. For ploughing it can be handy but you might want to make some scales on it for accuracy and so you know what position it was in before. I can imagine them being less strong than a solid top link but they should be alright. It's more the operator that matters! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tractorman810 Posted January 28, 2012 Share Posted January 28, 2012 stupid question coming now, but i havnt ploughed in a very long time, how will the hydrallic top link stop the rough ride ,no matter whats being adjusted behind, your going to get a rough ride just down to the angle your crossing the ruts ect at Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MODELFARMER Posted January 28, 2012 Author Share Posted January 28, 2012 well while the plough is in the ground the toplink will actually be in float, or rather the spool will be, so the ram can move in and out rather than the pin sliding and wearing in the slot tm810, when you drop the plough in all the 4 furrows start cutting and turning at the same time, so the edge of the ploughing before the headland is ploughed looks like this /\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\ but if i drop the front in, move forward and slowly lengthen toplink/ram the 2nd 3rd and 4th drop in in the same place as the 1st did so the edge "in theory" looks more like ------------------------ it wont be perfect i know but neater, and i know i can program the whole thing on my headland management would be like this, to start, toplink short, Drop arms forward speed 1mph open spool (restricted flow to allow back of plough to drop in slow) speed 4mph toplink float diff lock on speed 5mph and to save typing the sequence is sorta reversed at the other end Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tractorman810 Posted January 28, 2012 Share Posted January 28, 2012 with you ricky, just wasnt sure, seems a fair bit of cash to part with just for the sake of the odd rough ride round on each field when doing the headlands??? do you do a huge acerage to cover the cost?? i could understand if you were doing a say 500 to 1000 odd acres at go each year Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NIGEL FORD Posted January 28, 2012 Share Posted January 28, 2012 (edited) I know it's no help.... but I bought a nearly new one about 20 yrs ago for around a fiver at a farm sale locally, it seemed no-one else knew what it was! Certainly the auctioneer/catalogue listing didn't. I found it very useful on our undulating ground just with our 3 furrow reversible which with manual turnover helped with increasing ground clearance too. It made more than £50 when sold in the farm sale several years later Edited January 28, 2012 by NIGEL FORD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MODELFARMER Posted January 29, 2012 Author Share Posted January 29, 2012 i can get a 16tonne ram made by www.ramko.co.uk cat3 ends and check valves etc. ..less than £200 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davy140 Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 Tulip got one made for the tm in portglenone. He uses it for the plough and buckrake. He was well pleased with it. Not sure wot it cost but it's well made. You'll not be able to use your spool in float cause the check valve won't let it float. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MODELFARMER Posted January 29, 2012 Author Share Posted January 29, 2012 hhmmmm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 6, 2012 Share Posted February 6, 2012 you could just drive that little bit slower while doing 1 st run over headlands & save the ££££ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MODELFARMER Posted February 6, 2012 Author Share Posted February 6, 2012 i dont do slow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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