*PROJECT* New Holland BB960A Baler Single axle Conversion

[JC]

CCF asked me how easy this conversion was to do a while ago and I promised I would talk him through it at some stage, seeing as i'm doing it for Tim I thought it a good idea to share it with everyone else, if you have any questions fire away......

It might take me a few days to complete the pictoral so please be patient!

First up, here's the parts you will need for the conversion;

BB960 baler

3mm or 1/8" dia brass or mild steel rod

plastruct tube, 5mm dia I think but I will confirm later....

Epoxy two part adhesive

1 Pair claas quantum wheels

1 Pair wheel studs from either of the following; Ford 5610 and other variants on skinny wheels, Volvo BM or a deutz DX

[JC]

First step, Pre heat yuor oven to gas mark 6 and put in a baking tray to pre-heat..... 

I always do the wheels first to give you chance to be painting them as you go along through the other parts of the job

Place them in a bowl of warm water for a minute or two to soften the rubber tyres, once warm the rubber tyres will come of the rims relatively easy......

[JC]

Dry off the wheels either by placing them somewhere warm for a while or by using a hair dryer.

I use this method for mounting the wheels, you might think of a different one......

The wheel studs need to be fitted into the centre of the rims, they are a tight fit but they will fit with some gentle persuasion!

Apply a small dab of super glue first if you wish but I don't think its needed.....

If you look closely you will see where i have chamfered the edges of the studs to help locate them in the centre of the rims..... It might look a little untidy but once fitted you will never see it.

[JC]

Once the studs are fitted set the wheels to one side and prime them, on this occasion I'm using "Hycote white primer"

You will need to spray the wheels from several directions to get all the inner area on the rim, do this in short sharp bursts to avoid applying too much paint. 

Leave to dry for half an hour or so and then check to make sure you have a good even coating, if not touch up accordingly.......

Once dry you can turn them over and do the back aswell, using the same procedure.... (this is not needed but will look better if you paint both sides of the rims.)

[JC]

While the paint is drying you can make a start removing the original wheels and axles, two screws located above the wheels need to be removed first.

[JC]

Once both the screws are removed the chassis can be removed from the main body, at this point it's wise to also remove the pick up reel to avoid damage, this is held on with two small screws.

[JC]

Time to remove the wheels, Try them with your hands but I normally use some long nosed pliers behind them or a pair of grips as shown....

This part can be a pain, sometimes they will come off quite easy, other times you might do a bit or swearing!!

[JC]

Once the wheels are off you can make a start cutting of the old axles, I take my time and salvage the steering axle for future projects but you may choose to just grind or cut the old stubs off which is a lot quicker, For this i use my dremmel with a cutting disc on it...... in picture three you can just see where I've started to cut the rear axle away from the chassis.....

Dremmell with cutting disc...

Wheels once removed, two fit on to stubs on the steering axle, the other two have knurled studs fixed in them....... all worth saving for use on another model. 

You can just see where I've started cutting....... before the battery went  flat! 

[JC]

Thats all for today chaps, hopefully more tomorrow.......

Feel free to ask any questions you might have.

[JC]

Hahahaha......

Mr's p has just seen this and given me a rollocking about my nails..... " You should have let me give you a manicure before those pics" she said..... I think she sometimes forgets I work for a iving. 

[starbrush]

i am sure the nails wont show on the finished baler f-p.

[FB]

Hahahaha......

Mr's p has just seen this and given me a rollocking about my nails..... " You should have let me give you a manicure before those pics" she said..... I think she sometimes forgets I work for a iving. 

:D

one of them is shiny, you sure she didnt start on them

[JC]

Errrr...... That must be water or something. 

[britainsnut]

First step, Pre heat yuor oven to gas mark 6 and put in a baking tray to pre-heat..... 

I hope you havent left it on all this time :D

[Lord Ferguson]

Interesting post Jason... I am going to have a go at that when you have finished... so don't miss anything out will you...

Just one thing... Are the sausages in the picture of the chassis what you are going to put in the oven 

What.... they are you fingers  :o

Blimey mate... if ever there is a fight on here... remember I'm on your side will ya 

[JC]

Once I've removed the axle I tidy it up with a file, I also grind down the front axle stubs to stop them fouling the new wheels once they are fitted, you should be able to see wht I've worked on if you look for the shiny metal areas on the chassis.

Another view......

[JC]

Now the chassis is prepared we cut the tube for the new axle to go through, this is plastruct tube which is approx 5mm O/S diameter and approx 57mm long, you can see in the picture where it will be mounted.

[JC]

To fix the tube in position I am useing a two part epoxy glue such as "araldite", I apply a blob to each of the two contact points and then position the tube where it needs to be (pic 1)

After a few minutes the glue will start to cure and become less likely to run everywhere, I then add a little more glue on the inside of the chassis where it is not likely to be seen so it doesn't need to be the tidiest of joints, I'm more concerned with creating a strong joint between the two parts (pic 2)

[JC]

Leave the glue to cure and then it can be painted, you can just touch it up with a brush using some black paint or you can repaint the whole chassis like I am doing, first off I add a coat of grey primer (pic1) and once the primer ids dry I paint it over with a black paint (pic2)

[JC]

While the paint is drying on that I cut the new axle from a piece of 3mm diameter brass rod at approx 73mm long in this case (#TIP# It will be worthwhile checking this measurement on yours prior to cutting as you may not have ground down the front axle stubs to the same lengh as me 

By this stage I have also painted the wheel rims yellow and given them chance to dry, the tyres will push on but if you warm them in some warm water first you are lesss likely to damage the paintwork on the rims.

[JC]

Ok, now we have the wheels assembled and the new axle made, the chassis has been modified and painted and is ready to fit back onto the main body.

this pic shows the newly modified chassi ready for re-fitting.

[JC]

Time to re-assemble..... place the chassi back in position on the body, it locates under a lug at the rear of the baler and into four small holes at the front. Once in position you can re-fit the two screws situated halfway down the chassis.

[JC]

Once the chassis is secured back in place you can re-fit the pick up reel to the front which is secured by two screws.

[JC]

Once the chassis is secured and the pick up reel fitted its time to add the wheels, add a small amount of glue to the end of the axle rod and push it into the first wheel, thread the axle rod through the tube you have fitted to the baler and then add a small amount of super glue to the other end of the axle, carefull not to add too much as when you slide the wheel on it will force the glue up the axle rod and may glue the axle rod inside the tube meaning the wheels won't turn! Fit the second wheel and Thats the job done.

[JC]

The finished article!

[Deere-est]

Brilliant. Looks better than the proper one aswell.

Sorry, this is a proper one!!