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Arghh whats it doing?


farmernick06

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Hello all again ... i've just painted up my New Ray combine into Claas colours ( Rover applejack green from Halfords ) but as soon as i sprayed it on after a few seconds it appeared to start to crack  :-\ I have primed it and i've just put on a second coat to the same problem  :-\ Can anyone tell me why and how i can resolve the problem?

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not sure to be honest, i've only used humbrol paints so far :-\. Can car spray paints be used on plastics??, i know some can, but maybe thats a factor??, what about the air temp??, that may have an effect :-\ :-\

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not sure to be honest, i've only used humbrol paints so far :-\. Can car spray paints be used on plastics??, i know some can, but maybe thats a factor??, what about the air temp??, that may have an effect :-\ :-\

Im not sure Ben i do not have a clue it could be any of these things ... might of been the primer aswell .. didn't look right  :D And it's a bit nippy outside so might be that might bring it in see what happens  ;)

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did you shake the can up well?? thats a common cause, one way to stop that is put the tins in a bucket of hot water for a few mins first then shake for a min or 2, aggitates the paint well that way, also only spray in fine coats, it may be down to spraying to much paint on in one go

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did you shake the can up well?? thats a common cause, one way to stop that is put the tins in a bucket of hot water for a few mins first then shake for a min or 2, aggitates the paint well that way, also only spray in fine coats, it may be down to spraying to much paint on in one go

I may try that in a minute with the hot water .... but i did shake the can for around 1 and a half mins. I did do quite fine stroaks on my first coat but the second i tried to cover the cracks  :-\

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I may try that in a minute with the hot water .... but i did shake the can for around 1 and a half mins. I did do quite fine stroaks on my first coat but the second i tried to cover the cracks  :-\

the cans normally say shake for 2/3 mins plus, well the fergy ones do, hence the hot water tip, leave if for a good 4/5 mins and it sprays on lovley, you will prob find it will not cover the glazing effect now unfortunalty, although gav may have a tip  about that as he had a similar prob with his harvestors 

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IMHO I think the top coat has reacted with the base coat. If the primer went on OK, then it's a mismatch with the gloss.... :)

Darn it  :( Oh well i'll try and get a similiar enamel paint and see if i can clean it up a little bit ..  :( :(

And cheers Sean it said 2 on the tin but i've got a few more things to spray so i'll try it  ;)

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It may be the combination of paints. What primer did you use? What top-coat did you use?

If the primer contains a cellulose base you have to let it cure for about an hour. If the primer has not cured, when you apply a top-coat the primer will react and 'wrinkle'.

The common cause of this type of 'reaction' is using paints with different 'bases'.

You can spray a cellulose primer and use an oil based top-coat but if you use an oil based primer you can't use a cellulose top-coat as this last combination will cause the reaction.

In my experience, it is the original paint that the model was finished in that causes the reaction as it will soften and shrink when applying another finish despite priming, The best thing to do is to remove all the original paint from the start.

I use an automotive grey primer and for the top-coat an acrylic formulated paint (Plasti-Kote or Hycote) these can be used in conjunction with cellulose based paints.

Hope this helps.

Oh forgot to say, you will have to strip what you've done to get it right. :'(

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It may be the combination of paints. What primer did you use? What top-coat did you use?

If the primer contains a cellulose base you have to let it cure for about an hour. If the primer has not cured, when you apply a top-coat the primer will react and 'wrinkle'.

The common cause of this type of 'reaction' is using paints with different 'bases'.

You can spray a cellulose primer and use an oil based top-coat but if you use an oil based primer you can't use a cellulose top-coat as this last combination will cause the reaction.

In my experience, it is the original paint that the model was finished in that causes the reaction as it will soften and shrink when applying another finish despite priming, The best thing to do is to remove all the original paint from the start.

I use an automotive grey primer and for the top-coat an acrylic formulated paint (Plasti-Kote or Hycote) these can be used in conjunction with cellulose based paints.

Hope this helps.

Oh forgot to say, you will have to strip what you've done to get it right. :'(

It's quite an old primer i found in the garage ... i left it overnight but it still seemed a bit tacky when i painted over ...

Thanks for te advice aswell i'll learn from my mistakes

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the newrays are just coloured plastic aint they ?? well i thought they were, intresting to see how it turns out as i fancy a class dominator like that at some point, although i have the nh 8070 to do first

Yeah i'll post a picture in a minute ... although lacking in detail they are a very well made toy and the shape is practically identical to a Dominator  :) I got the idea from Grahams conversion

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the newrays are just coloured plastic aint they ?? well i thought they were, intresting to see how it turns out as i fancy a class dominator like that at some point, although i have the nh 8070 to do first

Most of the stuff is coloured plastic nowadays, cheaper to produce and with modern injection moulding methods cheaper to produce and paint gives off fumes so health and saftey plays a big part in it.

They don't make 'em like they used to!! :   :(

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Hmm im not sure power rabbit ... although asthetically challenged this isn't a bad toy. Moving header, cutting reel and opening grain compartment and extremely well built it's lasted 14 years of battering  ;)

And Sean this is what Graham did and seeing as i had that combine i asked him and he said i coulkd give it a go http://www.farmtoysforum.com/forum/index.php?topic=14245.msg241624;topicseen#new

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mmm shes sweet aint she, just of to see if i can find those dominator 98 decals now or 106's would they be ok for a combine that size, never sure how class numbered them

She is ineed ...

I was following a picture i found on farm photo of a 98s .. but don't have a clue about decals. Was rather depending on you guys  ;) I had a chat with Gav about it and he said there are dominator decals in 1/64 but none in 1/32  :-\

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If your spraying Halfords paint onto plastic ,use Halfords plastic primer, not their normal primer. You'll get no probs then and a much better finish.

Thats the problem i didn't use Halfords primer ... in fact im not sure i used plastic primer  :-X :-X Worrying ...

I did do another coat and it is a little better but still lots of cracks  >:( It looks good from a distance though  :D :D Infact im going to change the plan and make this into a 'used' machine. Cracked paint bit of rust lots of dust ... hoping that may be a way out

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She is ineed ...

I was following a picture i found on farm photo of a 98s .. but don't have a clue about decals. Was rather depending on you guys  ;) I had a chat with Gav about it and he said there are dominator decals in 1/64 but none in 1/32  :-\

No I didn't. I said that they were 1/50 scale that I could get, but I can get 1/32 Mega and Claas decals ::):D;)

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