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new 5000 that I have left the axel on (well some of it)


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what did you use as high clearance thats awsome  :P :P :P

the front axel has been cut down and then I used the bottom of the wheel mounting drilled a hole in it and fitted a brass rod in it, the rod was then inserted into a brass tube then cut to size (remembering to cut the brass rod a bit longer) then shaped two bits of metal and drilled holes at both ends and fitted them to the brass rods at the top, the rear bar for the steering is made out of a round plastic bar with little eyelets fitted each end so they look like tract rod ends (found the eyelets I found in a craft shop and are ideal for running pipes through) and that was fitted to the rear of the metal bar from the brass rod, The stabilizer bar is a bit of thin metal shaped then fitted to the axel and to the tractor (front axel still goes up and down ) The rear axel has been ground down and filled with filler and a bit of plastic strip has been shaped and drilled then mounted to get the height right for the rear wheels, the rear wheels have been fitted by useing an old axel rod of a nh ts135a it was cut to size and then the ends with the little screw on end fitted on the inside of the tractor  through the pre drilled holes and the wheels fitted to the rod . And thats how you do it ;) sorry about the essay but thats how it's done ;D

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nice work, would look better with  a bubble cab on it though mate,only high clearence ones i have seen were fitted with those, not that i have seen many of those either

will do one of that type when the slow boat from chine gets here with the 7600's ;)

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the front axel has been cut down and then I used the bottom of the wheel mounting drilled a hole in it and fitted a brass rod in it, the rod was then inserted into a brass tube then cut to size (remembering to cut the brass rod a bit longer) then shaped two bits of metal and drilled holes at both ends and fitted them to the brass rods at the top, the rear bar for the steering is made out of a round plastic bar with little eyelets fitted each end so they look like tract rod ends (found the eyelets I found in a craft shop and are ideal for running pipes through) and that was fitted to the rear of the metal bar from the brass rod, The stabilizer bar is a bit of thin metal shaped then fitted to the axel and to the tractor (front axel still goes up and down ) The rear axel has been ground down and filled with filler and a bit of plastic strip has been shaped and drilled then mounted to get the height right for the rear wheels, the rear wheels have been fitted by useing an old axel rod of a nh ts135a it was cut to size and then the ends with the little screw on end fitted on the inside of the tractor  through the pre drilled holes and the wheels fitted to the rod . And thats how you do it ;) sorry about the essay but thats how it's done ;D

that front axel sounds just like what i did to mine a few weeks back when i got it mate,just standard height not full

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looks very good  ;) a great looking model and good use of the front axle. well done mate ;D ;D

cheers mate, it was a bit of a pig to work out at first and I did mess one of the first wheels up, with luck I had some spare 5000's (you might have noticed the one next to the high clearance version is missing a wheel ::))

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nice work DP :) :) :), next up a swather then now you have mastered the high clearance bit  ;D ;D ;D

swather not at the moment mate got to many 5ooo's to do  ::) I did the high clearance as a one off for my collection (well till the 7600 comes out ;))

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