BC Posted December 15, 2010 Share Posted December 15, 2010 Oh very nice and new looking and shiny Mark...who will be the first to scratch it you or Lumpy \ \ PS Has your power washer broken down.... that lorry behind is crying out to be washed :of Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PDC Posted December 15, 2010 Share Posted December 15, 2010 That looks smart Marky You just need a bigger digger now Doug will look lost on there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord Ferguson Posted December 15, 2010 Author Share Posted December 15, 2010 That looks smart Marky You just need a bigger digger now Doug will look lost on there Never mind that Paul.. I think I need a PDC course on how to swing this bloody thing around corners - I seem to need all the yard to turn now Oh very nice and new looking and shiny Mark...who will be the first to scratch it you or Lumpy \ \ PS Has your power washer broken down.... that lorry behind is crying out to be washed :of Thanks Bill... scratched already on the bed.. and muddy... but hey ho really.. as for the pressure washer breaking down... that's good old London Grime that mate - hard earned at 2.30am this morning I think.. it will get a wash tonight I suspect Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CMB Posted December 15, 2010 Share Posted December 15, 2010 Possibly a stupid question but why doesn't Bailey include a trailer jack on the standard model? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
masseyjack590 Posted December 15, 2010 Share Posted December 15, 2010 Possibly a stupid question but why doesn't Bailey include a trailer jack on the standard model? because they are designed to be as low to the floor as possible so you can drive the digger on to it without massive ramps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pistol pete Posted December 15, 2010 Share Posted December 15, 2010 very nice looking trailer mate. so will you use this to take the little fergie to the rallies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
masseyjack590 Posted December 15, 2010 Share Posted December 15, 2010 oh yeah the trailer looks good in red it will look good behind Hattie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CMB Posted December 15, 2010 Share Posted December 15, 2010 because they are designed to be as low to the floor as possible so you can drive the digger on to it without massive ramps I mean the hydraulic type that can be raised and lowered \ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
masseyjack590 Posted December 15, 2010 Share Posted December 15, 2010 I mean the hydraulic type that can be raised and lowered \ i don't know but it's not really necessary because the pick up hitch will be able to pick it up easily Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord Ferguson Posted December 15, 2010 Author Share Posted December 15, 2010 Jack has hit the nail on the head... it doesn't need a foot/jack at the front as the tractors autohitch does all the lifting and lowering. Now... talking of that... my dilemma... bear with me... I WANT to put the baler on the front end of the trailer (near the drawbar) so I can use is in the tied down position and not have to worry about moving bales around with the forklift... or indeed sending one of the trucks over to make a collection (we usually go out with just the tractor and baler) BUT... my toplink isn't long enough (when extended as much as I dare.. lots of thread out) to drop the baler off when the tractors wheels are on the floor and the baler is on the deck \ ... so... I thought I'd have to (still might yet) drive on to the bed with the tractor and drop the bale off... the next problem there is that the front wheels of the tractor remain on the ground.. BUT.. I sussed that I can level myself up with the bucket... except.. I don't want to take the bucket out with me as I'll need the forks. Then.. the next problem is... what do I do with the bales I make when I'm out as if I fill the deck from the back to the front I won't be able to drive on and off load the baler - DOH .. it's a bit like playing Jenga this really \ This will explain things a little better... here I am.. bed on the floor... right on as far as I can go... tractor front wheels on the floor.. but levelling myself up with the bucket (obviously can't do that with the forks on as they will make a mess of the road/yard etc) So... my options (as I see them.. hoping for better suggestions) 1. Take the forks with me as well and spend hours buggering about to load up after I have finished loading the baler back on when I finish.. 2. Find a way to plonk the baler on the front of the drawbar as I had originally planned -extend the toplink perhaps... or drive the tractor on to some sleepers or something \ 3. Say sod it, go to the pub and leave Lumpy to it \ .. which I have to say is favourite at the moment Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james f Posted December 15, 2010 Share Posted December 15, 2010 Would a hydraulic top link help? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PDC Posted December 15, 2010 Share Posted December 15, 2010 Will your baler lift high enough so you can tow the trailer on the drawbar? or can you not scheme up a draw bar attached to your baler for towing the trailer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tractorman810 Posted December 15, 2010 Share Posted December 15, 2010 what about having a set of feet added each side of the baler, so you can drop it over / on the tow hitch of the trailer mate , put a mark on the trailer as a stop point for you so you dont over fill it ,painted line or something, that way you can still use the pallet trucks to move the bales round, but also put the baler onto the trailer to tow it home Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord Ferguson Posted December 15, 2010 Author Share Posted December 15, 2010 Will your baler lift high enough so you can tow the trailer on the drawbar? or can you not scheme up a draw bar attached to your baler for towing the trailer? looked at that when we first had the machine Paul... two issues really mate - the weight of the baler is too much already for the machine as it's so far out on the links.. so I really can't add any more also.. the baler does swing up and down quite due to it's long length away from the wheels and the fact that the linkarms float - so it's really not a workable solution to fix anything to it - as it happens... the rep who sold it to me insisted that I could plonk an Ifor Williams behind it.. when I asked to order the brackets the technical manager laughed at me and said it was just not possible to do that.. hence why I owned an Ifor Williams for some time that I never actaully used Would a hydraulic top link help? Brilliant idea James... I'd not thought of that mate... spot on idea that - thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord Ferguson Posted December 15, 2010 Author Share Posted December 15, 2010 what about having a set of feet added each side of the baler, so you can drop it over / on the tow hitch of the trailer mate , put a mark on the trailer as a stop point for you so you dont over fill it ,painted line or something, that way you can still use the pallet trucks to move the bales round, but also put the baler onto the trailer to tow it home Not sure I understand that mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james f Posted December 15, 2010 Share Posted December 15, 2010 I'm here to help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tractorman810 Posted December 15, 2010 Share Posted December 15, 2010 if the balers dropped on the tractor end of the trailer then you still have room to move bales on the rear, if you have feet either side of the baler, solid bar, the same height as the tow bar, the baler can be droped level with the trailer floor, but not on the actual tow bar, leaves you with a flat work area to move bales, and no need to drive up onto the trailer to drop the baler to tow it home, just leave a area baler size at the front of the trailer,reverse up ,drop it, job done, no need to bucket move or raise to get the angle to drop it, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord Ferguson Posted December 15, 2010 Author Share Posted December 15, 2010 I am being thick here mate... I'm sorry I understand the 'stick it up the tractor end' principal.. that's what I am wanting to do... BUT... if you imagine the tractor wheels on the tarmac.. but the baler on the deck... you need a toplink as long as the band around Bens wallet ... that's what I can't currently overcome.. I am sure you are telling me somthing that I am failing to see... but... I fail to see it at the moment can you explain why adding feet to the baler will help buddy please .. sorry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tractorman810 Posted December 15, 2010 Share Posted December 15, 2010 if you put the baler on the tow bar alone its balanced on just that, feet each side would stablize it, if they are still on would that lower the reach the top link would need to drop it off on the trailer then?? as its got less distance to go to the floor of the trailer then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord Ferguson Posted December 15, 2010 Author Share Posted December 15, 2010 Oh I see mate... sorry.. no the bed is the same height off the floor as the drawbar... so you 'straddle' the drawbar to lower the baler to the bed... the problem herein lies in the fact that you can't drop something off your linkage that effectively is 10" off the ground (in relaton to the wheels) .. plus... if it was on the drawbar then you'd not be able to turn of course \ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord Ferguson Posted December 15, 2010 Author Share Posted December 15, 2010 this one explains it mate really.. imagine my back wheels on the tramac.. touching the reflectors (straddling the drawbar)... then I am trying to drop the baler on the trailer Ignore the sleeper and imagine the deck and drawbar on the floor of course Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tractorman810 Posted December 15, 2010 Share Posted December 15, 2010 sure i have asked this, but would hattie lift the baler onto the trailer with the front loader? that might be easier, drop it off, lift it on, strap down and go Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord Ferguson Posted December 15, 2010 Author Share Posted December 15, 2010 sadly not mate.. the baler weighs close on 2.5t... the loader can lift only 2t at the faceplate... add the distance away on the forks and the weight of the carriage and it will never manage it .. it tips my 2t forklift up in the air empty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TM190 Posted December 15, 2010 Share Posted December 15, 2010 Take it you've tried all the holes available for the toplink pins? On tractor and Baler? \ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord Ferguson Posted December 15, 2010 Author Share Posted December 15, 2010 Take it you've tried all the holes available for the toplink pins? On tractor and Baler? \ clever fella .. short answer.... not YET... that's my only hope.. but I think you are right and I think I'm currently on the bottom hole... to keep my toplink are vertical as it will go... clearly the opposite end should yield results You can go to the top of the class provided it works :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.