The peculiar world of 3D printing. Printers and CAD in a world of Craft Knifes and Pencils.

[Stabliofarmer]

I might as well start the topic I've spoken about in the purchases topic. If admin want to do the fancy thing where they move posts to different threads then I think what was discussed in the purchases topic would make a nice start to this one. 

Anyhow, in the mean time... 

Printer 

Printing

Printed wheels

Edited October 5, 2021 by Stabliofarmer

[catkom3]

Doing it yourself the print price would be really cheap, I looked out  tractor bonnet, it's for a Cletrac crawler rescaled it would cost € 0.01 and use .24mtrs of filament, If you can use CAD and you have the original object it would probably be fairly straight forward, Hand held scanners have always been a bit hit or miss but Creality recently released their new CR-Scan 01 which appear to have sorted a lot of issues there, Failling that there are umpteen small business's out there now who could help you out, Manchester 3D are getting a lot of good things said about them at the moment,

https://www.manchester3d.co.uk/

https://www.creality.com/goods-detail/creality-scanner-cr-scan-01

Regards

Joe.

[IH885XLMAN]

I've msged Manchester 3d James we shall see cheers

 

[Tractorman810]

just tinkering, not really had much spare time for the trailers or this of late, but have been doing some cad stuff when i can, top will need a bit of spacing  and it may?? be a little to high cab frame wise . amazing how different software for slicing effects the finish as well 

[catkom3]

I've just been dodgeing around making the odd piece here and there, my Hooglosser trailer really need a few fine details and primed and painted and my Pacton flat converted to a walking floor need the back door locks printed and fitted, Sean in Cura if you type in ironing in the search facility you can enable Ironing which should smooth out the highest layer of your print, although looking at those roofs I really think you have some other issues going on, Did you print those flat on the build plate,???

Regards

Joe

[Tractorman810]

no joe,they are printed on their side, its the only way i have managed to get the shape to print, even then only one  of the 2 progs i have will do it , it struggles with the wavy shape still , but the other just wouldnt slice it properly .i didn't engage smoothing just yet, want to get the shape and fit right first, then i will try it out, its printed as a solid part, 100% infill as thats the only way it stays strong enough ,the frame is only 2mm thick, 3 with the cladding at the rear 

[catkom3]

6 minutes ago, Tractorman810 said:

no joe,they are printed on their side, its the only way i have managed to get the shape to print, even then only one  of the 2 progs i have will do it , it struggles with the wavy shape still , but the other just wouldnt slice it properly .i didn't engage smoothing just yet, want to get the shape and fit right first, then i will try it out, its printed as a solid part, 100% infill as thats the only way it stays strong enough ,the frame is only 2mm thick, 3 with the cladding at the rear 

Those should turn out gorgeous printed flat, Just wish you used Windows then I might be able to help more, I just quickly knocked this up in DSM, it's the roof panel on one of Steves diecast Duncan cab's the lip around the edge is 1mm thick, and the rest is 4mm with all square edges rounded as are the corners.

Regards

Joe

 

 

[Tractorman810]

My slicer prog  is  windows joe, i just don't use the extra fine setting like smooth until i know it all fits , that adds say another 2 hours to a print, and if its out is just a waste of time . Its just the cad stuff thats apple, so easy with the pencil to do

[catkom3]

Ok cheers for that Sean, I prefer the clarity I get on my 24" monitor and the pointer on my mouse. Meant to say yesterday, That red filament I used I haven't used in well over a year so when I went to tweek the end to get it to go into the extruder a little bit snapped off, I just kept breaking bits off until I got a flexible bit then cut that as usual and it printed fine.

Regards

Joe

[Tractorman810]

not had filament issues as such,other than finding the best temp for them,which seems to be 210 degrees. even at the low settings this takes 8 hours, as i need to do the 100% infill , makes it a hell of a lot stronger, but takes time, but its thin, 2.5 mm tops on a few bits rest is 2mm, any bigger looks way out of scale. just set no2 off,lower profile to the cab its self (looked to high in the windows) and a second roof which is longer by a few mm, more than happy with the shape of one, is just the fit, so the deeper ones gone .then i can start to look at doors,hinges are way to fin, but i think i can sort the top and bottoms ,maybe in 1 part it uses at present 10 g of plastic, so not a big issue.grand kids are staying and are fascinated by it,keep trying my cad stuff and looking for downloads now to do😆😆😆

[catkom3]

Yea 210 is about as good as it gets for most filaments TPU is a bit higher at 240, have you tried lower infill settings 100% is very high most folk use only 15%, as for that roof part your doing is it a hard top or canvas, If it  is canvas white TPU might be an easier solution.

Regards

Joe.

[Tractorman810]

I did 15-20 % infill at first and basically it just comes apart , not enough strength in it at the joins especially the corner of the side canvas bits , most stuff is ok at that, these aint, once happy i will try it at top spec flat roof ect for final print, recon the doors will be the hardest as they are stepped , may need to look at supports for those , the roof is canvas look but effectively a one piece solid part , seems to struggle with the sagging effect when flat hence the side print option, worst case it may need a fine overfill with filler to smooth, want to get it with minimal parts just make hinges and paint to make it easy 

[catkom3]

If you like I can try a sample roof useing white Petg I can't try TPU as I only have that in Black and Yellow but Petg is semi flexible,I would also be curios to see if it was shiney or matt plus I've never printed Petg that thin, what size is it,

Regards

Joe.

[Tractorman810]

Its a basic box x by x , shelled to 1mm but the tops a wavy sagged canvas look done by drawing a shape then infilling ect(  the best bit of the apple pencil i can draw most things ) with all the the corners and edges rounded so i suspect in the corner its prob less than 1mm thickness hard to tell, so i chamfered the cab frame on the top corner/edges and added angled internal corners to the cab canvas part, the side canvas parts are all printed on the cab frame to give the strength to it all . Right now its prob 75% good bar the roof part, once happy i will play with the doors, cant really do those until the shape and size of the cabs right so i know and can measure the gaps ect, sure i have some white somewhere , but its just as easy to paint it, will paint the cab its self any to match the colour properly 

[catkom3]

This kinda thing.

Regards

Joe

[Tractorman810]

Yeah tops one part, the sides is part of the cab frame 

[catkom3]

Ooh that could get tricky, Maybe work better as three seperate prints, Cab top, cab skirt around the cab top, and two V shaped prints for the rear sides, ??

Regards

Joe.

[Tractorman810]

the frame and sides is fine now, bar small finishing like smooth  settings ect  ,its the top thats the issue, got the depth / height along with the width ok ,but was out on the length, so extended it out ,once i know it fits i will move on to the doors and lower panels ,as i can get a measurement, heres the basic shape(side profile) i drew to get the top   ,that just sits in the frame, and lines up to the side screens ,which are on the frame,as per pics.i then print it upside down, just added the hopefully right door tops on this print 

[catkom3]

Nice Sean I like that, yep the shape of the top of the canvas cab would be difficult to sketch up in CAD, You made a good job of that, Be good to see it when you get it finished.

Regards

Joe/

[Tractorman810]

cheers joe , thats what drew me towards an apple based cad program, being able to use the pencil, not sure i could do it with a mouse,my work laptop has a similar thing with it,but its not as good or easy to use as the apple one, and thats a year or so old, so not much different to the apple one i have.  its just finished the second, lower version ,and all seems ok, will have a test fit tomorrow now.been knocking this up while it printed,i just find it hard to gauge size at the mo , i am getting better , its just i cant just cut or sand down like a normal build with plastistrut, but the bonus is, this is a lot stronger once done.

[Tractorman810]

comes out like this joe

[catkom3]

Cheers Sean very different from the system I use, I would have printed each piece individually, Do you get them off the raft easy enough, I've only ever used a raft if the base of a print hasn't been 100% level, And regularly don't bother with any build plate adhesion at all, but that does depend quite a bit on which type of filament I'm useing, The curves at the bottom of the cab frame have come out well hardly any stringing at all, well impressed.

Regards

Joe.

[Tractorman810]

i use raft all the time, found i wouldn't get it to stick properly otherwise on bare or brim ,never really figured out why , and using glue just made a real mess. i put the bed at 65 degrees, filament at 210 and away it goes, all done the same way now, all peel of just fine, usually with no waste, unless i am a smidge high of the base level which dose put a thin support layer in, but nothing major, wastes say 3 g of plastic for the raft, and takes 20 mins longer on average

[catkom3]

There's a group on Facebook 3D Printing UK, you've probably seen them at some time, A lot of knowlageable guys on there, And quite a few who aren't, The guy's that know the score reckon if you HAVE to use raft's then there is something not quite right either in your slicer or printer set up, But it's your printer and your prints if it works for you then I'de just keep going,PS what speed do you print at, I have mine set at 50mms but reduce that to 15 for flexible.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/669068986490743

Regards

Joe.

Edited August 9, 2022 by catkom3

[Tractorman810]

will have a look there, speed wise i think most go at 60 or 65, will check when i load up the new cab with the doors all done ,prob be the weekend now, got a busy few eves doing a few little jobs for my mother . prob have a print of it as well.

[Tractorman810]

well thats a bugger,my printer seems to have thrown a wobbly, wont print anything, just heats up and then sits there , looks to be a software issue, awaiting the support lot to e-mail me back now