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Fendthead

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Everything posted by Fendthead

  1. Get these flails finished aaaaaaaah no more then I have a jd to finish, with mud again weeee, and then I have a plan for a fendt,a spreader thats on it's way (hint barry ) and a UH telehandler and a very muddy diorama all by the end of Jan, oh yer and I have to do my company tax return :'(
  2. Nice work 90 is a landrover 90 defender (90 being the type & defender the model)
  3. My plan for a gateway would be to use plaster, (the type you use for building train sets ) then as it sets run the tractor etc through it, then get airbrushing big time
  4. thought you would spot that , Putting new glass in it as some had come out
  5. I was having a bit of a play with front weight, the yellow stripes are painted
  6. should break cover next week, it was going to be a quick job.......but then the postman played football with it and it has had to have a bit of a rebuild 1st >
  7. Soon I have a few flails on the bench at the min, but I am also doing another JD for someone. I had plans to spend plenty of time in the shed over xmas......but the wife and family had other plans . Back to normal soon tho
  8. Take a look at everythingairbrush, they are an ebay shop. They sell the AB airbrushes they are a £35 copy of the £100+ airbrushes I use, they are not half the quality and you don't get the warranty BUT they have a good spray pattern, the parts are cheep and it has a metal body. far far better than a cheep plastic body hobby brush from revel or badger. Also for what you want you don't need a fine needle. there is also the G35 from premair I will have a look as I found a dealer and I have heard good things from RC shell painters The thing is if you are planning on painting large areas or using the airbrush a lot you do need a compressor as you will be going through cans of propelant faster than you can buy them, Also the cans are a pain in the arse as if you use them for a big job the regulator will freeze up and as the can empties the pressure will keep changing If you want a high quality airbrush you need to be spending £75+ at least. and you realy need a compressor :'( Hope this helps a bit as I have gone on a bit
  9. Errrrm a long time on and off but the fendt was the first tractor. I think the filler is signal you can use any filler
  10. This last photo is a bit of a before and after with an 820 that is getting the treatment for someone The whole thing is trial and error, you just have to apply the filler slowely and be sure were you want it. One thing is this is a display look once you have done this to the tractor you cant play with it as the filler is very fragile. I have plans to use this tractor in a diorama with a spreader/ tanker........If barry ever sends me one :D
  11. Once you have got the mud to look as you want it let it dry. Now you need to get the airbrush out, I use 2 types of airbrush both are double action one with a medium needle and then one with a fine 0.2 needle to apply realy small amounts of paint,for this model I used tamiya flat earth paint. You need to paint the filler 1st so start with the roughest areas and start to build the look you want up slowly it is very easy to over do it and end up with a brown tractor \ 1st picture is mid way through the painting 2nd is finished and on the tractor, for the last part I fitted the block onto the tractor then added a little more mud and finished the painting, it had to be fitted for the last bit to get the mud to look right
  12. So many people have been asking so here goes. I had the weight block off the 818 sitting on the bench so I thought I would mud it up and at the same time do a bit on here,( and I have a new airbrush that just had to be played with ) sorry it,s not a whole tractor. But the bench is a bit full of other things at the min 1st pic is of the mud mix, this is green filler ( can't remember the make and it's down in the shed ) mixed with a small amount of the mat brown paint I use tamiya paints. To get sloppy mud put this mix on real wet, for dryer mud let it set a little then once put on the model keep moving it about with the brush to get a lumpy effect. Keep building this up it is trial and error realy. I have started to put it on the model in the second photo
  13. Please UH, Another bust tractor in the box >. It must be happening in the factory as this time it was the track rod!!
  14. very very nice! got a jd sitting on the work bench........you got me thinking now.
  15. Funny thing that, most large farms in norfolk would seem to be owned by grumpy b**s!!rds. great kit, just nasty to work for .
  16. Errrrrm second that But have to say I have never had a close look at eather of these models on the shelf
  17. Cheers, thats the look I'm working on,once I get it right I will get the rest of a tractor to match
  18. Thanks, just got the JD out the box, hope to start on it tmro
  19. FENDT, FENDT,FENDT get the FENDT........sorry get a bit carried away now and again........FENDT
  20. Hmmm..... now then.JD to pull the ford out The second photo is a new effect on the tyres that I am playing with what do you think?
  21. It's silver artists pencil time....again . Go get one and have a play on the worn bits
  22. try a damp brush with the weathering kits if you want a little more on, damp tho, if you make it wet you start painting and you will need to get the cotton buds out......but that another method
  23. Right..... Get yourself a good quality soft brush at least 1cm wide artists brushes are the best sable if you want to spend a few quid. then dip the tip into paint eg silver to pick out bolt heads. Now get a bit of kitchen towel and wipe it all off using brush strokes just like you were painting, keep going untill you think all the paint has gone, then test on the model the result should be there is so little paint on the brush that it only leaves paint on high points on the model like bolt heads, steps hinges etc etc. if it is still painting the surface you need to go back to the kitchen towel. Hope this makes sence, works best on mat paint and with practice iworks very very well
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