fred

It might be a 7610 or some other 7 series Ford.

Where exactly were they made in the DDR? I guess like many I was always told Eastern European machines were inferior to the Western counterparts, but watching you tube videos recently all I can say is I’m impressed. Pity in many respects that a number of Eastern European tractors are no more!

The tinwork on Fiats were always prone to fast acting tinworm, however the chap that came out to fit the two way radios at the lettuce farm always had a hard time drilling holes for their arials and mounting plates. I suppose atleast with the two wheel drives you didn't have to give the clutch a jolt whilst pulling the fourwheel drive lever to disenguage the four wheel drive.

I have had the Milliput that I'm presently using for probably five years, may be more. Using it on Sunday the putty would not harden so I was wondering if it was time to start the fresh packet, then I thought I might try my paint drying oven so I did. 30 minutes later on a low heat it was rock hard, still life it the old packet yet. By the way after five years plus I have only used 40% of it.

could we have some details please? what is the donor model? thanks.

Well in my book if it had a cab on it then it should be restored with a restored cab otherwise forget it! There are to many so call restoration where cabs have been removed and they look totally wrong. Bit like making a an apple pie,would you leave out the apples?

The niche that RC2 are creating made be filled by a new company?

Don't know why he didn't keep it plus others such as his DB1690 commemorative.

They were mostly hand built and said to be the "Rolls Royce" of tractors.Very popular in certain EU countries and still have a notable following. Not that common in England but my uncle had two of them and I got to drive the smaller of the two. One was 200hp(+ ?) and the other was 120hp, but looked like an 80hp tractor and quieter to use than a New Holland 110-90. Felt solid and well made,it had a rebuilt engine still with breathing problems when I used it.He own both from new, he didn't keep the larger one to long.(but saying that probably 3 years)The smaller one must have been atleast 4 years if not 5 years.Had 8,000hrs (I think) on the clock when I used it.

You had some for sale once at Spalding.

I think that is a bit rude! He is trying to copy the original in an achievable manner in the way the Dutch guy you mention has done.

Looking good! But can you make the front wheels wobble and simulate all of the fuel/water and oil leaks? A great pulling tractor and workhorse! Pitty the Zetor and Crystal are not working together these days.Is the Crsytal tractor brand of today the same company of the 70S?

Already spent it! bought a DBP 390 and B.Norman 1200 the other week at spalding.

Well I wish that Britains would pull their finger out and produce a MF 1200/1250/ 590 as well. But how about a diamond plough for it? And if UH did some a Leyland,David Brown in any scale or 1/16 Field Marshall they would sell probably er... like cakes hot me thinks! P.s. How soon can I get one?

well they did do them in a two tone green

certainly not the British postal service!

how much would to buy one it from you?

It's a mess! Get that pressure washer going!

Is it out yet and how much Marty's Farm Models are advertising them.

what bonnet and cab have you used?

If you want to straighten the right mudguard then warm it with hot warm and carefully ease it out.Do not take it to far as it will break of.Do not use anything else to heat it with such as a naked flame as it will turn into a blob. And you can touch up the minor bits of paint work with Humbrol number 15 gloss(midnight blue).

How do I eliminate dust bits landing on my paintwork before it is dry? Before I commence spaying I clean the item with thinners,allow to dry then warm the item in a small oven.Before I spray the item I air dust it using my airbrush compressor or airbrush propelant.Then immediately it goes back into the oven to dry. Help please.....

Does the cab pull like earlier Britain's tractors? and how? I have two of them and one has a better bonnet than the other which has a better cab so I want to swap the cabs over without breaking either of them. Thanks.

Not use it myself but read an article in a modelling magazine that "T-cut" can be used for cleaning glue and removing scratches from glass canopies of model aircraft.