Stabliofarmer

Nipped out on my daily exercise, couldn't get next to the trailer as the farms on lock down, but a look from afar and I've decided on RAL 6002 for the current Bailey Green, RAL 6005 looks a good match for the older darker Bailey Green, will update if it's not correct!

Spot on Barry, thank you very much, will keep both those in the favourites bar from now on. I had seen that farming forum topic, and hoped someone that had built some before may have used a code they where happy with. Think a bike ride over to Uni, where they have a bailey in the yard, armed with my Ral chart is the next step, as they appear a different shade in every photo!

Looking good, this is certainly going to be some dairy set up!

Like that alot John! Great work

Looking at my chart I'd say 5012 or 5015 are the two options for Kidd Blue. 5015 is abit deeper and matches the brochure colour well (also looks to match what model farmer use), but 5012 is a little more faded/light and looks to match real machine photos better.

Ah that's annoying, thank you anyway Joe

Having a slight mind blank, I know Joe @catkom3 has shared a website before now, where you upload a photo and it tells you what colour's are a close match, I'm guessing its the same as what Barry has used above, but what is the website? Can't find reference to it anywhere! Help much appreciated. Trying to sort the colour for the Bailey Silage trailer, got my Ral chart out and 6001, 6002 or 6029 seem like reasonable matches, any second opinions?

No, they're hollow like most tractor ones so they sit over the rim. Hopefully photos explain it better. (Embarissingley only have scrap castings about so ignore the air bubble).

Yes still one piece, the faint circle you can see around the hole in the middle is cut out after the mould has been made. This allows the part to be removed from the mould, but holds itself shut when empty.

Tyres are different again as I inject the rubber because its more viscus.

I just pour it in. Mould design is key, inparticularly how you gate/vent the mould and how you can remove the mould. Most guides for a two part mould use, as it says on the tin, two parts. I try as often as possible to make them one part, and cut the mould to remove the part. For example the below mould is for a wheel rim. It is vented by the one opening, which is on the edge of the rim. This opening isn't large enough to extract the part from like it would be for a two part mould. I have therefore cut a split in the mould to widen the opening, but without loosing detail on the part, you just get a very faint line of flash (excess material). To fill the mould I apply pressure with my fingers to either end of the slit and it opens up. I simply pour the resin in and gentely release my grip so the mould closes again. Same theory on a more complex shape, this time a sheep. The four legs are used as vents, and one extra vent is added under the chin to remove air from the head. The cuts link all these up so that the sheep can be removed and the resin quickly poured from the same hole. Obviously its not always possible and a two part mould is needed, usually I find a slush mould most appropriate. Pour the resin into the female half of the mould, and push the male half in, displaising the resin. Venting is critical here as it is much more likely to introduce air bubbles that need to be able to flow out of the mould.

A batch of Bailey TB16 silage and grain trailers on the go at the moment. These use 3mm laser cut acrylic for most of the bodywork. I drew the CAD on solidworks and sent the .dxf files to cutlasercut in London who did the cutting. A very reasonable turn around of about 4 days, although one or two small parts where missing, presumably fell through the bed of the laser.

Interesting, so are you injecting the resin into the moulds? Would be interested to see how you've laid out the moulds to allow for it?

Great work Alf, a useful tool to have under your belt!

Uni work has been decreasing steadily over the last two weeks. I don't imagine there will be many assignments kept on after today's announcement so there should be plenty of time to get modelling! Haven't got near any models recently so it'll be a little silver lining amongst all that's happening.

Some great scenes on the go there Gary, lovely work

They are both very nice bits of kit, I look forward to seeing them in model form

Coming together quickly, but then you'd expect nothing less from a team with a man of as many talents as Bob on it. Looks really good so far.

A weekend avoiding uni work has lead to these two projects. Ford Cargo Horsebox And a Bailey TB16 silage trailer, CADed up to be laser cut, working on some wheels and mudguards to 3D print

This should be an interesting build, can't wait to see it progress, and great to see you back posting

Cheers guys I have all the blueprints for a TK, just got to find the time to get around to doing one!

Finally got round to starting this one, Transkit for the Heller Volvo F10 to face lift it to a lafer generation model.

Just checked and it is a Tamiya weathering master C set I've used, just applied with a brush and some thinners. Forgot I have a few in build photos

Cheers guys The metal is Tamiya acrylic white as a base where its scraped away the yellow top coat to leave the primer. Then some brown for rust. Then Tamiya do weathering powder in a little make up box thing with a rust, a gun metal, and a fresh metal so the final weathering is with them.

Hope everybody has had a great Christmas and Father Christmas bought you lots of goodies. Been feeling festive in the workshop, Cuthbertson Folding Vee Plough built, will be mounted to a Bedford TM when I get it finished, will sort the hydraulics for raising and lowering. Folded flat with the centre piece stored An folded to a Vee with the centre piece in place