The peculiar world of 3D printing. Printers and CAD in a world of Craft Knifes and Pencils.

[Stabliofarmer]

I might as well start the topic I've spoken about in the purchases topic. If admin want to do the fancy thing where they move posts to different threads then I think what was discussed in the purchases topic would make a nice start to this one. 

Anyhow, in the mean time... 

Printer 

Printing

Printed wheels

Edited October 5, 2021 by Stabliofarmer

[catkom3]

Was that printed as a complete piece then hand painted James,

Regards

Joe.

[Tractorman810]

hot off the printer, after a 11 and a half hours print, the first tandem axel version. next step(the wife and jobs allowing) is to assemble and test the fit have added the wheel rims to this after a few tweaks, in the aim of saving time and cash using resin , plus it allows axel holes to be in place ready to go, so less chance of messing the wheels up .after a few attempts of various settings for a base, by far the best finish i get on the parts is raft. and when you do the sclice it cacualtes the plastic used, and its only a 15g gram difference to the next one down, 20 to the basic, the time is the longer issue but i get no wasted parts, so overall for me on these time isnt anything for the quallity.

[Stabliofarmer]

13 hours ago, Tractorman810 said:

how long does a file like that take to print then james ? 

From memory this was printed along with a bunch of track grousers, so I nested three engines and probably 15 grousers on the build plate and because they're only 10/15mm tall it took about an hour to print everything. 

13 hours ago, catkom3 said:

Was that printed as a complete piece then hand painted James,

Regards

Joe.

Yes Joe, one singular print with supports where the computer wanted to put them and then just quickly brush painted.

[Tractorman810]

found a couple of small issues with some parts, axel mount was a bit to far back, so all moved forward, some packers added to the wheel mount points, to get spacing right, but overall nothing major, so replacement chassis and mounts waiting to print, rather than the whole thing, found out how to duplicate the file so altered it all, copied it, then deleted all the parts on one , lot easier and quicker that a full re print,wheel hubs came out well, which is great, as the rubbers here now so first tyres currently setting tyres suit ita lot better size wise 

[Stabliofarmer]

That's looking really smart Sean

 

[Tractorman810]

i am getting there now james, had to re make the tyre moulds today, mainly as i didnt look at your topic first, so buggered that up😀😀 prob is its cold out there and the rubbers taking a while to set. 

[Tractorman810]

really didnt think this would work but after watching a few videos, and looking around,all i needed to do was set a support setting and job done.all the holes line up, the sides will still drop, just cut a thin 1mm strip it creates in the setting i mentioned and its all held in place, no need to fit all the hinges as they are already joined to the drop sides  ect and spend a while setting them right before glueing, colour  doesn't really show well what its done , down side to get this was a 17 hour print compared to an 10 one for the first ones i did the plus side its saves a lot of messing in assembly . clever things these machines. yes i did break a hinge,fat pinkies 😀but i have spares from the first ones .

[Stabliofarmer]

That looks smart Sean, something like that would be very difficult to achieve with a resin printer, especially without warping heavily

[Tractorman810]

both have their advantages, like the wheels you do, if you really dig into the settings i recon more can be done, another thing i found is smaller diameter  nozzles seems a .02 is very good , time goes up, but finish and detail available to you increase.its all a balance i guess between time printing and time spent assembling ect

[catkom3]

Tidy print Sean, seems to be a lot of " stringing " on some parts might be worth your while googleing that, Do you know what speed your printing at I print at 50mms, but the Pro will go upto 180mms that would speed up your prints significantly, what it might do to belts and bearings is another thing though.

Regards

Joe.

[Tractorman810]

12 hours ago, catkom3 said:

Tidy print Sean, seems to be a lot of " stringing " on some parts might be worth your while googleing that, Do you know what speed your printing at I print at 50mms, but the Pro will go upto 180mms that would speed up your prints significantly, what it might do to belts and bearings is another thing though.

Regards

Joe.

I think its the black filament joe, dont get it on the other two, its done it on all prints, have a feeling it needs to go up a bit temp wise from what i have seen online, colour pigment issue so it seems 

[catkom3]

1 hour ago, Tractorman810 said:

I think its the black filament joe, dont get it on the other two, its done it on all prints, have a feeling it needs to go up a bit temp wise from what i have seen online, colour pigment issue so it seems 

Could well be temperature related Sean, Best way to check is download and print a temperature tower, your printer will print a bridge at a different temperature on each bridge then you can see which temperature suit which filament best, handy thing to keep in your .stl folder for future use,

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2761934

Regards

Joe.

[Tractorman810]

must do that, as i say it doesnt do it on the red or blue, i just had that on as i printed out a chassis for something i keep meaning to finish, well two, so may need to order another now 😀 so seeing as its pretty full i just used it mainly as i seriously had my doubts it could be done despite what the videos say,as it sort of contradicted others views. also found a settings page called “ the dark arts “ in the cura software ,  not played with those yet, but it talks about speed printing via vase settings and continuous printing with no jumps between parts, again “clams “ to be 50% quicker. have something i want to do for the shed , set of modular draws, so may try them settings on those bits .

the black was on as i did a chassis for one of james d series kits i have .

[catkom3]

Vase setting ( spiralize ) in Cura speak is fantastic if you need to produce hollow tubes as it only prints an outer skin rather than a solid cylinder, Also handy to download and save one of the bed leveling calibration tests if all 9 squares are the same if not a little adjustment might be called for.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3796577

Regards

Joe

Edited March 16, 2022 by catkom3

[Tractorman810]

bed wise i have not had an issue, set it once with a feeler gauge,job done  ,vid i got that from said it will only need checking roughly once every 4 months, and so far hes right, keys to take care removing the matt the prints on, most issues come from that  when the beds go out of level.

[Gav836]

21 hours ago, Tractorman810 said:

I think its the black filament joe, dont get it on the other two, its done it on all prints, have a feeling it needs to go up a bit temp wise from what i have seen online, colour pigment issue so it seems 

I had to print black filament at 230 degrees to stop the same issues you’re having from occurring. 
 

I’ve switched to a PEI bed now and prints not only stick better but come off easier too.

[Tractorman810]

2 hours ago, Gav836 said:

I had to print black filament at 230 degrees to stop the same issues you’re having from occurring. 
 

I’ve switched to a PEI bed now and prints not only stick better but come off easier too.

I think that was at 210 which the red and blue are fine at, seems going by google ect that black needs higher due to the pigments used for the colour, 

whats a pei  bed ?? Bar getting the temp right since then i have not had any issues with stuff binding and removing easy , dont even need to use glue , got some incase , all that was down to rje temp i was printing at 

[Tractorman810]

have been reasonably quiet of these the last few weeks, mainly due to work, but have been tweaking the design, and am not far of being able to consider doing some as kits for sale . been doing a lot of videos on youtube and picked up some tips, which has assisted in being able to minimise the amount of “airfix kit” style work required, its pretty amazing what they can print if you set it right , lots of free hanging bits now, but it saves a huge amount of time build wise ,and makes them so much more stronger .i have a few of the old ones printed ,so they may go first, just mastering tyre casting for them 

[catkom3]

Print off one of these Sean, Then you will see just how clever your printer really is, One of the first print's I ever did 7 years ago.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3096598

Regards

Joe.

[Tractorman810]

wonder how well this would come out ?? its certainly testing me just in the cad 

[catkom3]

Something like that Sean I think I would do in sections, Sketch and print one bit then take measurement off that to do the next piece, then do the rest just like that, I would think a scratch builder like you would have a Vernier gauge, ??

Regards

Joe.

[Tractorman810]

yeah do have one, shes in parts anyway, just pushing my cad skills,that said ash tree could do with a new sprayer,and i could do with 6 months spare to do it 😀😀😀

[catkom3]

Yep, every day is a school day with CAD, just sussed out how to create a ten stud wheel without resorting to tutorials today, figured it had to be fairly simple but today I remembered to give it a try, so now I can make wheels to fit free to download tyres,

Regards

Joe.

[IH885XLMAN]

How easy or how hard snd what eould the cost be to make a tractor nose cone and or a whole bonnet  from 1/1 scaled down to 1/32  can you hand scan the original shape you want to print  and just scale down 

[Tractorman810]

No tried a bonnet yet or a proper

cab , since i got  this and did the trailers i have discovered that work seems to think its more important😆😆 not getting home till 8-9 most eves so not had time to play or print much