BC Posted March 3, 2008 Share Posted March 3, 2008 I spent quite a part of yesterday deseizing the handles on my Ransomes TS142A trailing plough and also getting grease through all the relevant greasers. This plough is actually for my Ransomes MG2 crawler but was bent when I bought it back in 1983. I dismanlted it some 25 years ago got it straightened and then painted it up and have never put it to use. It has lain ouside for about 8 to 9e years now and the paint is beginning to fade. Time to get something done I thought so I'm planning to have a go ploughing at my local vintyage working day in May this year pulled by my French Farmall Cub. I can't seem to get the trip to work to raise and lower the plough and was wondering if anyone had any ideas what could be wrong. Also any tips on ploughing with a trailing plough would be appreciated. It will be one way ploughing so no fancy stuff liles "feerrings" and "mids" to worry about. I guess the main thing is starting off in a straight line and keeping the remaining furrows straight too!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
powerrabbit Posted March 3, 2008 Share Posted March 3, 2008 Regarding raising and lowering the plough, the wheels are on a cranked axle and inside either wheel there should be a sort of cam or dog on the axle that contacts the underside of the frame that in effect lowers the wheels/raises the plough when you pull on the appropriate handle. The dog or cam may be just rotating around the axle and needs pinning or tightening in position. As regards actual ploughing, it's just a matter of practice, hithching the plough to the tractor and positioning the drawbar to bring the plough inline to give you the correct front furrow width in relation to the rear wheel of the tractor that runs in the furrow, if your plough is 8, 10 or 12 inch furrows, lay a straight length of wood inside the rear wheel of the tractor rearwards to the front furrow of the plough and measure the distance of width from the inside wall to the outer edge of the share to get the correct width, this measurement needs to be done with the cross-shaft in the central position, one end-link up, the other down to get the plough pulling straight in the first instance. Hope this makes sense and is of some help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marshman Posted March 3, 2008 Share Posted March 3, 2008 do you want a form to take part in the romney marsh ploughin match :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BC Posted March 3, 2008 Author Share Posted March 3, 2008 Regarding raising and lowering the plough, the wheels are on a cranked axle and inside either wheel there should be a sort of cam or dog on the axle that contacts the underside of the frame that in effect lowers the wheels/raises the plough when you pull on the appropriate handle. The dog or cam may be just rotating around the axle and needs pinning or tightening in position. As regards actual ploughing, it's just a matter of practice, hithching the plough to the tractor and positioning the drawbar to bring the plough inline to give you the correct front furrow width in relation to the rear wheel of the tractor that runs in the furrow, if your plough is 8, 10 or 12 inch furrows, lay a straight length of wood inside the rear wheel of the tractor rearwards to the front furrow of the plough and measure the distance of width from the inside wall to the outer edge of the share to get the correct width, this measurement needs to be done with the cross-shaft in the central position, one end-link up, the other down to get the plough pulling straight in the first instance. Hope this makes sense and is of some help. Thanks for that powerrabbit. It may well be the case that cam needs repositioning since I may have not assembled it correctly all those years ago. Pity you didn't live closer or I would have been asking you to be my coach at the BA Event in Aberdeenshire in May ;D My thanks for your comments Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BC Posted March 3, 2008 Author Share Posted March 3, 2008 do you want a form to take part in the romney marsh ploughin match :) Bit far for me to travel on the Cub with plough behind ;D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marshman Posted March 3, 2008 Share Posted March 3, 2008 Bit far for me to travel on the Cub with plough behind ;D didnt relise you where that far away comeone only take a few days ;D ;D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BC Posted March 3, 2008 Author Share Posted March 3, 2008 didnt relise you where that far away comeone only take a few days ;D ;D And nights to at a top speed of around 6 -7 miles per hour ;D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BC Posted March 4, 2008 Author Share Posted March 4, 2008 Regarding raising and lowering the plough, the wheels are on a cranked axle and inside either wheel there should be a sort of cam or dog on the axle that contacts the underside of the frame that in effect lowers the wheels/raises the plough when you pull on the appropriate handle. The dog or cam may be just rotating around the axle and needs pinning or tightening in position. As regards actual ploughing, it's just a matter of practice, hithching the plough to the tractor and positioning the drawbar to bring the plough inline to give you the correct front furrow width in relation to the rear wheel of the tractor that runs in the furrow, if your plough is 8, 10 or 12 inch furrows, lay a straight length of wood inside the rear wheel of the tractor rearwards to the front furrow of the plough and measure the distance of width from the inside wall to the outer edge of the share to get the correct width, this measurement needs to be done with the cross-shaft in the central position, one end-link up, the other down to get the plough pulling straight in the first instance. Hope this makes sense and is of some help. Powerrabbit I had a look at my plough last night and I think I now see what the problem is. The trip is snagging on a collar held by a set pin in one of the round cross bars on the plough frame. To me it looks I need to heat the set stud (to avoid snapping off !!) and rotate this collar round a bit so that the trip can operate. The plough is outside and I could not be bothered taking it in side but I will have a go at the weekend. Another thing I do remember about ploughing with a lift plough was to have the boards shiny so the soil would clean off the plough. I havent got ground to practice on so I will get the wire buff on the small angle grinder on to them and give them a clean up too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
powerrabbit Posted March 4, 2008 Share Posted March 4, 2008 If the plough boards are pretty rusty you can take the surface rust of with a sanding disc or zip wheel but you will find that you will have to turn over a fair bit of ground in order to shine them up so the soil will not stick. Obviously, the better the plough is set-up, the quicker it will clean, also depending on soil type. Best bet it do what I do, carry a wide blade paint scraper with you so you can clean off any earth at the end of your runs, you may have to do it mid-run as well depending on how far you're going. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BC Posted March 4, 2008 Author Share Posted March 4, 2008 The other thing I was thinking about was a spring hitch. I don't have one but my father said they used to use wooden pegs made from broom bushes and if you struck stones the wood would snap and not damage the plough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
powerrabbit Posted March 4, 2008 Share Posted March 4, 2008 I've seen the wooden peg 'shear away' system used, can't remember exactly how it worked but I think there were a couple of like flat stays connected between the tractor drawbar and plough drawbar and if you hit an obstacle, the pegs would break and release the plough without it actually being disconnected from the tractor, avery effective break-away system. Another safetey measure that was used was the shares attached to the frog by a wooden peg instead of a bolt, again, if you hit a large stone the share would just come off instead of breaking, problem was that you did'nt discover that a share was missing untill you got to the end of your run and lifted the plough out the ground and chances were that you'd never find it again untill next time you ploughed the field and then it would only be by chance. I remember my Father came in from a bit of ploughing on day with a large rusty adjustable spanner in his hand and said "I've been looking out for that spanner for 34 years, lost it ploughing!" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BC Posted March 5, 2008 Author Share Posted March 5, 2008 I've seen the wooden peg 'shear away' system used, can't remember exactly how it worked but I think there were a couple of like flat stays connected between the tractor drawbar and plough drawbar and if you hit an obstacle, the pegs would break and release the plough without it actually being disconnected from the tractor, avery effective break-away system. Another safetey measure that was used was the shares attached to the frog by a wooden peg instead of a bolt, again, if you hit a large stone the share would just come off instead of breaking, problem was that you did'nt discover that a share was missing untill you got to the end of your run and lifted the plough out the ground and chances were that you'd never find it again untill next time you ploughed the field and then it would only be by chance. I remember my Father came in from a bit of ploughing on day with a large rusty adjustable spanner in his hand and said "I've been looking out for that spanner for 34 years, lost it ploughing!" Powerrabbit When you say the shares attached to the frog I assume you mean the point of the plough? In Scotland we call that the sock. Yes I used a converted trailing plough on the lift with my Nuffield many years ago and yes the "socks" were attached with wooden pegs. A yes I lost one and never did find it !!! On the Ransome TS42A it has a bar point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james f Posted March 5, 2008 Share Posted March 5, 2008 I don't think I'd go match ploughing with a bar point \ \ But then if its what you have and its just for fun it would be good enough i suppose Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BC Posted March 5, 2008 Author Share Posted March 5, 2008 It won't be match stuff for me only a bit of fun. If I can keep in a straight line and the ploughing level that will do me. I'm gonna PM Marky for some advice on who to avoid curves ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
powerrabbit Posted March 5, 2008 Share Posted March 5, 2008 It won't be match stuff for me only a bit of fun. If I can keep in a straight line and the ploughing level that will do me. I'm gonna PM Marky for some advice on who to avoid curves ;) To avoid curves, drive in a straight line! Easy enough to say but if you are ploughing a plot, take your three marker poles with you. When you go to your ploughing event, my advice, watch some of the others and what they do, this way you will learn heaps, and never be afraid to ask anyone questions. Proper ploughing is a dying art and the 'professionals' are always more than willing to help newcomers to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marshman Posted March 5, 2008 Share Posted March 5, 2008 I don't think I'd go match ploughing with a bar point \ \ But then if its what you have and its just for fun it would be good enough i suppose i dont agree, people with fergies and holterculral make a fine job, anyway im not very good its no the wining its the taking part Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparrow legs Posted March 5, 2008 Share Posted March 5, 2008 ive never ploughed with a trailer plough but im told its much harder than a mounted i have done a few matches in the past with a tef20 and 2f fergie plough, dont be afraid to ask for help, i recived so much help and advice, everyone at the match are there for the love of ploughing and the old boys are more than willing to pass on the dying skills to younger people to keep the tradition of proper ploughing going, as my grandad says theres no skill in comercial ploughing now as its leveled with a powerharrow etc the next day were as years ago you ploughed and left it to weather over the winter and farmers took pride in the poughing they had on show. try watching the farming press and old pond dvds as they have good match ploughing advice on the etc stage by stage Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
powerrabbit Posted March 5, 2008 Share Posted March 5, 2008 The first process in producing good healthy heavy crops is the ploughing. This is why the 'old school' of farmers always took great pride in their ploughing skills and ability, a well ploughed field will grow twice or three times the crop than a poorly ploughed one will, that is where the emphasis on crop growing starts and unfortunately this no longer seems to be taught. Slightly off topic, but talking of an art and pride, how many grass fields do you now see in early spring that have been 'striped' with chain-harrows. Remember driving on the road and seeing a grass field with light and dark stripes up and down it? I always chain my fields this way as that was how I was taught, for one thing you can see what you're doing, secondly you're not running over the same ground all the time and third, looks good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BC Posted March 6, 2008 Author Share Posted March 6, 2008 To avoid curves, drive in a straight line! Easy enough to say but if you are ploughing a plot, take your three marker poles with you. When you go to your ploughing event, my advice, watch some of the others and what they do, this way you will learn heaps, and never be afraid to ask anyone questions. Proper ploughing is a dying art and the 'professionals' are always more than willing to help newcomers to it. Yes Powerrabbit I think I will try and attend some "real" matches before the fun day as a spectator and just watch ask and listen. I agree with what you are saying it is a dying art and even more so with respect to the trailing plough classes and "younger" participants certainly up here in Scotland. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BC Posted March 6, 2008 Author Share Posted March 6, 2008 ive never ploughed with a trailer plough but im told its much harder than a mounted i have done a few matches in the past with a tef20 and 2f fergie plough, dont be afraid to ask for help, i recived so much help and advice, everyone at the match are there for the love of ploughing and the old boys are more than willing to pass on the dying skills to younger people to keep the tradition of proper ploughing going, as my grandad says theres no skill in comercial ploughing now as its leveled with a powerharrow etc the next day were as years ago you ploughed and left it to weather over the winter and farmers took pride in the poughing they had on show. try watching the farming press and old pond dvds as they have good match ploughing advice on the etc stage by stage Thanks for that Sparrowlegs. And yes I agree on your comments on commercial ploughing of today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdc Posted March 6, 2008 Share Posted March 6, 2008 I must be 'old school', PR Even with a reversible multifurrow plough, you can make a good, even job and finish off nicely. Just take a bit of time to set up before starting, it's actually easier nowadays with lower link sensing etc, but some people just hare off with the machine way off, and wonder why the field is like the N. Sea afterwards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
super6 Posted March 6, 2008 Share Posted March 6, 2008 Not much help, as its for mounted ploughs, but there was a free guide from Kverneland advertised in the Feb edition of Classic Tractor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BC Posted March 7, 2008 Author Share Posted March 7, 2008 Thnaks for that Super6 I will have a look back at the Feb issue of CT. In my case I think every little could help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BC Posted March 10, 2008 Author Share Posted March 10, 2008 I took the plough into the garage on Saturday and deseized the collar I thought was causing the trip not to work. Tried shifting both ways but still not triping. I then pushed down on part of the mechanism and bang down she went. Funny I though part of the trip mechanism was hitting this part up. I then thought to myself I must have something on the wroung way round. Sure enough when I had assembled the plough after painting some 20 odds years ago I had put the sliding part of the mechanism on the wrong way round. Simple mistake to make for someone who does know a thing about ploughs. Turned it round the other way and bingo the trip now works for dropping and raising the plough. Went on to clean the mould board with an angle grinder with wire brush sprayed with WD 40 and covered the board with black poly bags. Hopefully all ready for the fun day in May. Now need to dig out the tractor and see what needs to be done to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robl12 Posted March 10, 2008 Share Posted March 10, 2008 Bill, To keep the mould boards from rusting cover them in grease. Was at a farm recently and the plough was in the shed and the mould boards were covered in grease. Would have come andwatched if I was at home but not home till start of April. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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