james f

It's called a macerator, apparently they're pretty easy to block too

Quote from the KV website: 2-5 Furrow Models The Kverneland EM / LM is available in 2-5 furrow versions. The 2-, 3- and 4-furrow models can each be extended by one body. You might want a heavier headstock though as Colm said Edit: Looking at the brochure on the KV website, it says that 3-5 furrow EM models come as standard with the 200 headstock and 2-3 furrow models the 110 headstock, so unless yours was a 3 furrow that has been already extended, it should be OK. The brochure also says that they are suitable for use with the Packomat packer without modification, which is a pretty hefty extra weight on the plough, so an extra furrow should be OK. I still can't see where you'd bolt on the extra furrow on your one though? http://kverneland.papirfly.no/newsread/ReadImage.aspx?quality=10&docid=5960

Interesting that... no need for side rails or cast subframe with that block either

Does anyone know what the difference between the 'MPS Line' and the ordinary models and sets listed under '1/32 SCALE MODELS' and 'FARM ACCESSORIES & SETS - 1/32 SCALE MODELS' IS??

I know how much he paid :

Yes, that's the one Sascha

That's a cheap one!!! :D

Well this one seems to be the equivalent of a 110-90 and it has the comfort cab. I was just wondering if maybe they were like a low spec version of the Fiat (!) then maybe they were never fitted with the supercomfort cab, so a conversion based on a fiat 110-90 with a supercomfort cab would be wrong?

Did they come with the supercomfort cab though, like on the ROS 180-90?

Wasn't me! Did help with ventilation though :D That's what I was thinking, but I wasn't sure \ Well that and the faulty electrics but she still goes!! As I said - un-loved

Definitely among the best makes out there. I've driven at least six of them over the years, mainly four cylinder ones, and they have been very little bother. Three of them were contractor's machines and subject to extreme abuse, and still went like trains. The guy who wraps for us had a 1998? 6800 up to this year that was a rolling wreck having been the main tractor for 10 years, as well as being the loader tractor, and the clock had stopped at just under 10000 hours but she still ran perfectly and was capable of a full day's work, though not the most comfortable to drive. The guy who does our hedgecutting had a 6600 up to last year that had 14000 hours on the clock and never had a spanner laid on the engine. All she needed was a new gear in the gearbox that was worn out from hedgecutting in the same gear all the time. The same guy has a 8000 that has 11000 ours on the clock. Our own main tractor is a 2001 6650 HiTech that has been very little bother since new. The only breakdowns have been a couple of sensors that played up and stopped her from driving, and a replacement front hub casting and front wheel after a car crashed into it - the car was written off though ;D We're getting a second hand 6550 with Stoll loader this year, and we have a 6400 with Tanco loader on loan from the dealer in the mean time, again an un-loved tractor but still easily capable of everything we have asked of her so far. I might put up some pics of these and the rest of our fleet next week under the members machines section I you're good Actually here is the said 6800, the front axle swivel bearings were completely shot by the time she left, the wheels were actually leaning: Oh, and our own 6650 is hiding in the corner of this photo:

That's a good point Gav, it's also definitely easier for the tractor driver loading on his right. Most places you wouldn't have a choice though because the trailers would be set up with one side higher than the other, as above.

L: August '72-July '73 M: August '73-July '74 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/British_car_number_plates

I don't see why it should make a difference that the controls are on the left side, surely the driver doesn't have to look at them every time he makes an adjustment? A few hours in the seat and you should be able to make all the adjustments by touch. I'm sure manufacturers put a lot of effort into the ergonomics of the controls so that you can tell them by touch. I'd say its more of a personal preference thing and tradition or what way you see others doing it. The loading on the left may have come from the days when trailed foragers used to load to the left?

Swapped one in a combine before, I'm sure I can manage a Hymac :D

That's what I'm thinking Tris

I wouldn't say a Ford engine would be that bad, very common engine the 6D (as parts men seem to call them). I'd probably rather one to Perkins, but then I might be a tiny bit biased :

I think they got the nose cone wrong, it looks too 'domed' at the top, and yeah there's only three injector pipes!! Don't see much wrong with the linkage though except the arms are lying in a bit, and there's screws everywhere

Nice setup :)

No bother to a 7600!! Most round my way (including ours) don't have working clocks though, so there's no way of telling how many hours they have put up \

Our main tractor, a Valtra 6650 has put up 4400 hrs since spring 2001, so its heading into its eigth year having put up about 630 hrs per year. I heard a rumour that the digital clocks run at a certain rate up to a cetain engine speed, then switch to a higher rate above that speed. Not sure if that's true though \

Isn't that for the whole system though Tris? Don't worry about it ford8830, sure it was rotten anyhow ;D

Mostly tanks under slats in sheds (we have three), the odd outdoor lagoon and very few permastore types.

Definitely break it up, I got an unboxed one as a present along with the tractor that drives it (large rigid-frame Case IH four-wheel-drive) and have pulled it apart to make something better out of it. I plan to use the same chassis but with the front lopped off and the body lowered to make it more realistic, plus a new set of tipping rams. The trouble with the original tipping mechanism is that the gears inside are too fragile and tend to split and then spin on the hexagonal shafts allowing it to tip up but not down or vice-versa. In short, you did the right thing in chopping it. I like Sean's idea of doing a scratch built chassis for it because the original is not easy to work with.

I'm in agreement with the two above :