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masseyman's 165


masseyman

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well i just got given this 165 from my great uncle i think it has a 203 perkins engine but please correct me if im wrong  ::) ::)

it is surprisingly in running order despite sitting outside and not moving for the mast 10 years and started on the second turn of the key

not sure of year as of yet as there is a manual and bits and pieces for her but havn't found them yet

my plan is to strip her down and fully restore her

my main worry is the sekura cab as i would like to keep it although the sheet metal on it is starting to rot and i don't no if it could be repaired or not however the main safety bar in the inside is solid  ??? ???

sorry about the quality of these first pics they where taken on my phone just before i put her in the shed to strip her down

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Lovely, very original looking too. What a lucky chap to get your hands on that one. Good for you, must have a grin from coast to coast now!

give it a couple of weeks and it won't look so original  ;) ;)

ohh your rite ;D ;D

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What a lovely machine you have there... it is indeed an AD4.203 engine as the exuaust is on the left... and as for the cab, I don't think I have ever seen one in the flesh.. and I've seen a lot of 165's in my time  :of

The cast aluminium bonnet flares and headlights date it as an early model as well.. although the numberplate says it should be a 1968 model.. I suspect it was made earlier than it was registered.

Send me the serial number and I'll see if I can date the year of production for you

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Looks tidy I must say , like Marky I have not seen that cab before . If it's just the sheet metal covering that bad you should be ok that's just cut and refit new , it's the structal beams ect that cause problems , ct mag did a bit or two about cab resto work a while back found my copy the other day may be worth a back copy or two for refference

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What a lovely machine you have there... it is indeed an AD4.203 engine as the exuaust is on the left... and as for the cab, I don't think I have ever seen one in the flesh.. and I've seen a lot of 165's in my time  :of

The cast aluminium bonnet flares and headlights date it as an early model as well.. although the numberplate says it should be a 1968 model.. I suspect it was made earlier than it was registered.

Send me the serial number and I'll see if I can date the year of production for you

I gather the sekura cabs are very rare then because i have been searching for a replacement back window for it and havn't had any luck

i havn't came accross the serial number yet but i will be back up at the tractor next week so il have a look then  ;) ;)

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Looks tidy I must say , like Marky I have not seen that cab before . If it's just the sheet metal covering that bad you should be ok that's just cut and refit new , it's the structal beams ect that cause problems , ct mag did a bit or two about cab resto work a while back found my copy the other day may be worth a back copy or two for refference

it's just some of the sheet metal that needs replacing so il hopefully be able to get a sheet metal worker to replace it  ;)
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give it a couple of weeks and it won't look so original  ;) ;)

ohh your rite ;D ;D

:laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

As long as you don't put twin beacons, twin cb ariels, windscreen sun strip and front fenders on it though!!!  :of:-\ :laugh:

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great works so far im halfway through the mechanical work on our 165 but i wont be restoring her like you and definitely not keeping it original either after trying to find a mf 35 loader i gave up and put a tanco 968 fel on it

i thought about replacing the steel surounds but the only company doing them is english so i think ill get a local engineer to just replace the roted pieces of steel you could do something similar or else get new pieces cut from sheet metal

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Aaron

if I remember rightly the small lever controls the rate of descent for the hydraulic arms and the sensitivity of the draft control. The pedal beside it is the diff lock. If one wheel starts to spin then stand on that pedal and it locks the differential and gives equal drive to both rear wheels.

Your modern tractors probably have complicated electronics and wheel slip sensors but the older ones relied on the driver which is where a lot of the skill came in. 8) 8)

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Forgot to say........as for tipping the trailer, the hydraulics need to be raised and then move the position control lever (the square one) to "constant pumping" which should tip the trailer, when you want to lower it , then move the lever back out of constant pumping mode.

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yeah pretty sure mikes right on the first one, sure thats where the lever was on ours, same with the diff lock peddle, knew that right away

definitely sensitivity control for draught control on the small lever, the quadrants for the levers should be marked for their respective uses , cast into them. ifrom memory the lever nearest seat does draught ,position and auxiliary selection. the lever nearest mudguard is raise and lower .
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thanks everyone, yea i wasn't sure if it was the diff lock or not, as for tipping the trailer is it the linkage leaver closest the mudguards or the one closest the seat that has to be moved into the constant pumping setting or is it the small leaver that i have circled

thanks Again

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here you go , the proper name for it, had to look for it to check mind

  its called responce control lever

Draft

Position

Response

and some times (probably on this one.... pressure control too)

response controls implement drop rate.. good for things like ploughing

ment to say engage the clutch before you step on the diff lock wont you

and for the tipping pipe... if no flow valve just go to constant pumping on the position control quadrant... if changeover valve fitted then need to select this first.. still operates on the position control quadrant

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