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Early Griffiths 10 ton silage trailer.


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Slight twist on the last one I did. That was the later Marston design. This one is the early style, tapered head board and a few more body braces. Also a fixed drawbar abit more true to an older silage trailer. 

Again I tried to cram as much detail in as I could. This time I used my own water slide decals. Pretty pleased with them, bit tricky to fit as I'm not sure it's the best paper they are harder than any waterslide ones I've used ! But they work. 

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That is stunning Sam, you’re definitely managed to get the detail into the build. You’ve even put brake rams on the axles! Like I said before, it’s the nicest 32nd scale trailer build I’ve seen, I reckon you’d have to go up to 1/16 and one of classic combines trailers to better it. 

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Thanks so much all. I really appreciate the feedback. As I always say it makes it all worthwhile hearing the feedback... keeps the motivation there to carry on, as it can be repetitive doing it full time ! 

 

The tractor is a masterpiece. It's a genuine Miniagripassion John Deere 6910. Fully scratchbuilt. I regard Phil as one of the best John Deere model makers/converters around he is fantastic. Only thing I am looking into changing is the wheels to solid centre type. I fitted a full set of rear work lights I just need to do a number plate and it's done. 

 

There was a question about the paint finish, on the trailers due to all the indentations on the design of the body braces it's hard to say the least. You find you will spray one edge and the over spray will ruin the bit you've just painted. 

 

I go back and just start with basics. A good surface to start. Key the model with some sand paper, usually about 800 grit, decontaminate the model of any oil off your hands etc, primer it 3 or 4 coats, let that cure, add your basecoat which is layered on very lightly as my trailers have allot of small detail they can soon actually become covered and gummed up by paint and then hidden. After that and complete even coverage is achieved you move onto the clear coating, its allot more thinner than basecoat so it's easy to develop runs. I usually build it up lightly and give it a few heavy coats to unlock a nice shine.

 

Usually after that with my tractor rebuilds I go ahead and wet sand the clear coat and polish it out. But even the real full size trailers and machinery brand new never really come out with a paint job as good as one found on your car ! Well non I've worked with anyway! So I leave it there with trailers and machinery. 

 

Few other factors to consider is the weather conditions I have a make shift spray booth that is basically a full sized poly tunnel which traps heat nicely. I keep that warm with a heater and spray in there until initial cure is reached and I then take whatever it is I'm spraying into my workshop and sit them on hooks in front of my halogen heater. All hung higher up on the roof where the heat is. 

 

Don't get me wrong it's not mirror perfect at all. And professional painters would  probably cringe at my unprofessinal painting methods but it works for me and gives off a fairly decent shine that's acceptable to sell and it's hard wearing so it's all I can ask for really. 

 

 

 

 

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Thanks very much that is a great guide to your painting process.  Normally by the time I get to the painting process I get too impatient and just want it finished, so I cut corners.  Next time I will try to follow a more rigorous process like yours.  

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