The peculiar world of 3D printing. Printers and CAD in a world of Craft Knifes and Pencils.

[Stabliofarmer]

I might as well start the topic I've spoken about in the purchases topic. If admin want to do the fancy thing where they move posts to different threads then I think what was discussed in the purchases topic would make a nice start to this one. 

Anyhow, in the mean time... 

Printer 

Printing

Printed wheels

Edited October 5, 2021 by Stabliofarmer

[Stabliofarmer]

6 hours ago, smithy said:

Hope you dont get a power cut half-way though 

Funny you should say that today if all days Smithy. I've put my first ever big print on (5.5hrs) and the kettle has decided it no longer wants to kettle tripping the electrics mid print! 

Luckily as Sean says there's some fancy bit of programming that realises what went on and starts from where it stopped. 

[smithy]

I was thinking it would be like turning of a hot glue gun and then back on a bit later on ,yes it would melt but would leave a funny blob on it 

[Gav836]

Trial print of a cleaning turbine for a sugarbeet harvester that I found on Thingiverse. Needs a bit of refining but not looking too bad for the first go 

[catkom3]

Interesting print Gavin. the lower fingers look like they might be spot on but the top ones look thinner that might be why they have curled up, What filament did you use, and what is that thing actualy called on Thingiverse, as I'd like to see what the end result should look like.

Regards

Joe.

[Gav836]

Just now, catkom3 said:

Interesting print Gavin. the lower fingers look like they might be spot on but the top ones look thinner that might be why they have curled up, What filament did you use, and what is that thing actualy called on Thingiverse, as I'd like to see what the end result should look like.

Regards

Joe.

They should be all the same finger, no top or bottom ones. The first layer seems to loop so will get the glue stick out next time. It’s SunLu PLA filament in there now. 
it’s a complete Moreau six row beet harvester on there but all the files are separate which is handy. 

[catkom3]

5 minutes ago, Gav836 said:

They should be all the same finger, no top or bottom ones. The first layer seems to loop so will get the glue stick out next time. It’s SunLu PLA filament in there now. 
it’s a complete Moreau six row beet harvester on there but all the files are separate which is handy. 

Cheers Gavin, I was just wondering if a Carbon fibre filament might handle that job a bit better, never tried that yet but I believe it is higher temperature so might make a difference, There is a group on Facebook who might have the answere, but asking there will return as many helpful wrong answeres as helpful correct answeres,

https://www.facebook.com/groups/669068986490743

Regards

Joe.

[catkom3]

I see the thing now, you might like to print that again, Are you useing Cura as your slicer, ??

Regards

Joe.

[Gav836]

24 minutes ago, catkom3 said:

I see the thing now, you might like to print that again, Are you useing Cura as your slicer, ??

Regards

Joe.

Yes, using Cura as my slicer

[catkom3]

1 minute ago, Gav836 said:

Yes, using Cura as my slicer

Just a suggestion but alter your settings, Top right and chose Super Quality then scroll down and check the box to add a brim, glue stick would be handy then print it again, should be spot on then.

Regards

Joe.

[Gav836]

10 minutes ago, catkom3 said:

Just a suggestion but alter your settings, Top right and chose Super Quality then scroll down and check the box to add a brim, glue stick would be handy then print it again, should be spot on then.

Regards

Joe.

Will try that thanks. 

[catkom3]

No worries Gavin a lot of prints require a brim especially tal thin prints and a little glue never goes wrong.

Regards

Joe.

[Tractorman810]

be carefull with the ultra fine one gav, did one yesterday, on just a skirt setting, and yes the qualltys good, but it ideally needs to be on brim,as a base, i found the fine parts started to lift mid print as there wasnt enough material holding them down on the base even with a coat of glue. seems. to be a few videos and stuff saying the same, it will. add. to your print time, but could save you wasted parts when you get to fine .

[Gav836]

First part designed by myself under way. Handy that we have the real machine in stock at work currently 

[Tractorman810]

having a pi5* ball with it today, tried my first print with the new ultimaker cura software , same settings as the other stuff temp wise , but will it stick to the plate?? first one got 3/4 through and the smaller bits lifted and bound it up( happend when i was out) got some parts off and it proved the fixes at least i had made, but no 2 and no3 didnt even grip with the brim level, plates dead clean and level, only difference is the software and the fact the filaments blue now . put no4 on with the old software thats come with it, perfect, no messing about, off and running, exact same heat and bed settings ,same bit of glue the lot.no idea whats different in it ? any ideas joe,james. 

[catkom3]

Sorry Sean bit of a mystery to me, Could you message me the stl files and I can try printing them myself,

Regards

Joe

[catkom3]

Just had a thought Sean, What type of filament have you selected, In my photo you will see I have selected eMotionTech PETG, yours should be either Generic PLA if you are useing PLA or specifically the brand you are useing, Cura has all these specification assigned to all the different filaments out there if your useing the wrong one your bed and nozzle temperatures will be wrong, hence the print not sticking.That's a drop down box by the way multiple filament choices in there.

Regards

Joe

[Tractorman810]

just the same as the red one joe, both e sun pla, bar colour theres nothing different bar software, guess theres something in that thats effecting it some how? its perfect again now, using the creality cura that came with the printer, prehaps the ultimaker ones not got all the settings,guess i will need to sit and have a look 

[catkom3]

3 hours ago, Tractorman810 said:

just the same as the red one joe, both e sun pla, bar colour theres nothing different bar software, guess theres something in that thats effecting it some how? its perfect again now, using the creality cura that came with the printer, prehaps the ultimaker ones not got all the settings,guess i will need to sit and have a look 

Little bit of confusion creeping in here I think Sean, There is only one Cura, which is the property of Ultimaker, 4 Years ago when I got my first proper 3D printer I was useing Ultimaker Cura version 3.6.1, I am now useing 4.11.0, and I think you are most likely useing 4.13.1 which I reckon could be giving you some grief as that version is a bit to advanced for me at this stage, I reckon if you uninstall 4.13.1 and then download and install 4.11.0 that should help, In Cura 4.11.0 there is only a choice of eSun PLA+ Black Grey Purple and White, Is your filament PLA + that little plus could be quite significant, Try doing a test print, Use the wee Benchy boat I popped up the other day and change your setting to Generic PLA, See how that goes if it prints that torture test Benchy it'll print anything,

Regards

Joe.

[Tractorman810]

will have a proper look tomorrow joe, the cura software that came on the sd card with the printer is deffo a creality cure, so there own version i guess ?. on both bits i had it set as generic as well , not sure if its got + on it mind . what difference does that make ? 

[catkom3]

The software that came with mine was Creality as well, The + will be higher tech possibly with different settings that's what the + will signify, Might be worth while cross referencing the temperature settings in your slicer compared to the temperature marked on the box or the label on the spool.

Regards

Joe.

[catkom3]

Just been looking around to try and solve your issues Sean, I reckon if you make this your next print it will show which temperature is best suited to printing your blue PLA, You notice there are 10 different levels on this tower your printer will print each level at a different temperature which will let you see exactly which temperature you need,

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3912855/files

Regards

Joe.

[catkom3]

I've been thinking about this a lot Sean, the only other thing I can think of is the initial layer height check both your slicer mine is set at 0.3 if the one that doesn't stick is less than that there won't be enough "squish" to form a decent bed for the other layers to stick to,

Regards

Joe.

[Tractorman810]

from memory its set at .1 mm runs clean as a whistle across the bed, and sticks right away, but after a couple of runs round they start to lift, wondering if the parts are two fine for just a  brim or skirt bed, as the red one was on a raft, and that was perfect , thats the only think bar colour thats changed, it never seems to lift in the same place, which would suggest grease or dirt.the beds wiped down with ipa before i let it  go, and its  got a layer of glue on it,that tombow stuff. gets a fresh one each time.both filaments are + ones, think i will run the next chassis kit on a  raft seen what happens the tops (grain and silage) seem to come out ok on brims. 

[Gav836]

What temperature are you running a Sean?

Also, I did read something about someone having issues after using IPA on the bed. What % is the IPA?

[catkom3]

1 hour ago, Tractorman810 said:

from memory its set at .1 mm runs clean as a whistle across the bed, and sticks right away, but after a couple of runs round they start to lift, wondering if the parts are two fine for just a  brim or skirt bed, as the red one was on a raft, and that was perfect , thats the only think bar colour thats changed, it never seems to lift in the same place, which would suggest grease or dirt.the beds wiped down with ipa before i let it  go, and its  got a layer of glue on it,that tombow stuff. gets a fresh one each time.both filaments are + ones, think i will run the next chassis kit on a  raft seen what happens the tops (grain and silage) seem to come out ok on brims. 

That's just weird, most folk with printers won't use raft's claiming they are useless, I'm beginning to think there may be some form of conflict between Ios and Cura software, Have you tried sketching anything useing different CAD software and printing that direct to Cura, ??

Regards

Joe.