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The peculiar world of 3D printing. Printers and CAD in a world of Craft Knifes and Pencils.


Stabliofarmer

Question

I might as well start the topic I've spoken about in the purchases topic. If admin want to do the fancy thing where they move posts to different threads then I think what was discussed in the purchases topic would make a nice start to this one. 

Anyhow, in the mean time... 

Printer 

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Printing

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Printed wheels

IMG_20211005_212320.thumb.jpg.a19bc19734212eea16f6df87a7ef5cb1.jpg

Edited by Stabliofarmer
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51 minutes ago, Gav836 said:

What temperature are you running a Sean?

Also, I did read something about someone having issues after using IPA on the bed. What % is the IPA?

the ipa is a very high 99% proof one, what we use at work on the new ribbon fibres , so it evaporates properly, otherwise you get water residue left over. 

temp wise its sat at 205, so mid range for the pla so the details on the spool say. not changed that at all setting wise, just as it was from the box

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44 minutes ago, catkom3 said:

That's just weird, most folk with printers won't use raft's claiming they are useless, I'm beginning to think there may be some form of conflict between Ios and Cura software, Have you tried sketching anything useing different CAD software and printing that direct to Cura, ??

Regards

Joe. 

nope, same software cad wise. been looking at a few vids and i do wonder if its down to the size of the parts, good feew say that raft is better for fine parts, as its got a good base down, brim doesnt cut it. but as you say others say the opposite. if it means fart so be it, at least i get good parts out of it, may take a little longer, but in high quality setting it may save 2 days on paint time ?.. especially on the red one .

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42 minutes ago, Tractorman810 said:

the ipa is a very high 99% proof one, what we use at work on the new ribbon fibres , so it evaporates properly, otherwise you get water residue left over. 

temp wise its sat at 205, so mid range for the pla so the details on the spool say. not changed that at all setting wise, just as it was from the box

ipa down here is a pint of bitter ,and its not 99% proof ☺️

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1 hour ago, smithy said:

ipa down here is a pint of bitter ,and its not 99% proof ☺️

knew you would say that being a green king man 😀😀😀

 

got to love a chancer  as well, had a message asking me to send the trailer file over from someone ,so they could make a few to sell.they are new to the hobby ?. like i sat for 3 odd days doing it so some one else can make dosh out of it.yeah i will share it with a few select people, but any for sale will be via me 😀😀😀

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8 minutes ago, Tractorman810 said:

knew you would say that being a green king man 😀😀😀

 

got to love a chancer  as well, had a message asking me to send the trailer file over from someone ,so they could make a few to sell.they are new to the hobby ?. like i sat for 3 odd days doing it so some one else can make dosh out of it.yeah i will share it with a few select people, but any for sale will be via me 😀😀😀

Many years ago i used to drink it ,too many of them and it cleared you out both ends 🤣 do to medication i not touched any for a few years now , back on the trailers if you do sell any i would be up for a blue one maybe a red one as well but as Ransomes was only up the road from here blue would be my first choice , think it was 1976/77 my father and me was taken around the factory ,as we bought the first 33 beet harvest ,went on to have a 33A and then a 33B 

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3 hours ago, Tractorman810 said:

the ipa is a very high 99% proof one, what we use at work on the new ribbon fibres , so it evaporates properly, otherwise you get water residue left over. 

temp wise its sat at 205, so mid range for the pla so the details on the spool say. not changed that at all setting wise, just as it was from the box

Try increasing the temperature a bit, PLA wouldn't stick very well on mine so run at 220 on the nozzle and 65 on the bed now and had no problems since then

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2 hours ago, Tractorman810 said:

Give  me a chance not 100% sure i have cad worked out properly yet 😆😆😆😆

Your CAD skill's are better than mine I very much doubt you would need to manipulate any files in your slicer, When I watch a tutorial if I don't get it first time forget it, My short term memory was never very good, Part of the reason I never read books, By the time I get to the end of a paragraph I've forgotten what happened at the start,:huh:

Regards

Joe.

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think the mystery with the blue filament is solved, have not changed anything on this print today, other than put it on a raft as a base. and same as the other bits, the first 1 & 2 layers just didnt stick all over evenly, few bits were movable .its only really started binding when it gets onto the 3rd and finish, not an issue with red, that binds on all settings, so i recon its actually the filament is self ,i can use it up ok, just as a raft setting, so its not wasted, but the esun dark blue pla+ doesnt seem to like sticking down to the bed, glued, non glue hotter plate or nozzel temp  .not so bad on a raft as it covers over well before you get to the parts but as brim or skirt, i wont use it again, they lift causing the parts to lift, so your first layers are lifting effecting the rest of the build.

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may try a bit later, to be honest,the more i look the more,for what i am doing with it right now print wise , the more i see videos saying rafts are best for fine parts, the others for the rest, doubt i will get the blue again, unless its so close a match to the paint its worth it, and if i get a perfect kit every print, i can wait the extra hour or two it takes ,i have split the files down now into a separate 6 and 8 ton .and what i hope is the final 6 ton version,no amendments again  is printing now, in blue on raft, and the bits look really sharp , will get the grain top and silage side file ready today,and put that on tomorrow before i go to work ,hopefully the finished version will be done for the weekend, bar sorting the wheel moulds out . the 8 ton is under reworks  chassis wise, have raised the sides all up already . but thats nota rush, as it was only conceived by accident so will do that later .

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when hot, bed and nozzel, as they will expand, do it with a feeler gauge . pretty sure its just this colour filament now, when i take apart the red one i struggle,tried some of the raft and brim in that everything   is well joined, this blue one just doesnt seem to want to bond, even at 215 temp, its ok when fine, like i want the finish, and once it gets into the finer levels of the raft its fine , just not good for brim or skirt, maybe none ?. not overly bothered, it will get used up, just take a little longer to do it thats all .

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I've been working on another project and just finished printing the second door for this artic trailer never done anything like this before, But the holes printed in the door and it's surround are 1mm in diameter, The one on the left is straight off the printer and the one on the right has been tidied up a bit, with a length of stainless steel wire pushed through, That's a common dress makers pin 0.7ml diameter and 26ml long never dreamt it would work but it does. Zoom right in for fine details.

Regards

Joe

Sean ten.jpg

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So far small holes like that have not been an issue, 1mm is easy even some of the .5mm do come out, some need a quick run through with a drill mind, say 1/4 of them . The only issue i had with hole was forgetting diameter  on cad first print(red one) i set the hole at what i thought was 1mm and got a 2mm 😢never listened at school see 😆😆😆😆 

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7 minutes ago, Tractorman810 said:

So far small holes like that have not been an issue, 1mm is easy even some of the .5mm do come out, some need a quick run through with a drill mind, say 1/4 of them . The only issue i had with hole was forgetting diameter  on cad first print(red one) i set the hole at what i thought was 1mm and got a 2mm 😢never listened at school see 😆😆😆😆 

Ha ha, been there done that, and at school.:ph34r:

Regards

Joe.

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