james f

Try attaching a large cold mass to whatever your soldering to act as a heat sink and prevent the heat from travelling. Works better with flat objects, but its worth a try.

Yes, from two practically identical shepherds!! :D

You can use the car spare!

If its the type that sucks the paint up from the bottom, my advice is to throw it in the bin and get a gravity feed one with the paint cup on top. Then you only have to worry about the needle setting once youve wopped in a bit of thinners

I drilled out the body of a rivet lately and forced a small screw into it to hold it all together. It was on a Britains MF 6290 and was bloody hard work. That die cast stuff they use seems to clog up the drill bit \

I think thats the one my local fella has too

Either Humbrol or Revell do pots of paint that are as near to Claas green as makes no difference

take off the outside bits and it mightnt look too bad

toyfarmer3, though you wont have seen me bid on anything farm model related lately

No worries Nico, I'd probably do the same if I was writing in french Great model by the way, and thanks for the tip about the power harrow dust, it really is perfect for 'dirtying' models

Lads I think he meant scratch-built when he used the word 'artesanil', like, made by an artisan. He probably looked it up in a dictionary, or made it up out of his head because I dont think its a proper english word

Plastruct is easy to cut. You just score it along where you want to cut it and then give it a bend and it snaps right in half exactly where you marked it.

Hmm, sounds interesting, got any pics?

Thanks for that Andy. Cant wait for some of that stuff. That Ferguson looks the business!

Pulled this off Google image search as an example of what I'm talking about. You can see that the main section including the seed hopper is rigidly attached to the back of the power harrow, and the coulter bar is mounted on a pair of paralellograms, one of which is visible behind the seed pipes going from the hopper to the coulters. the air fan is usually belt driven off the back of the power harrow gearbox

I'll have a look tomorrow for you if I get time True Gavin but the ones that lift up and down seperataly are known as box drills and are a completely different style to the britans type of drill. As far as doing a conversion based on a Britains model goes, the coulter bar on the real ones are mounted on a paralellogram linkage so that the coulter height can be adjusted using a turnbuckle on either side, but hydraulics would be wrong.

Why do you guys want the drill to move, they dont on the real thing, theyre just mounted lower and rise up and down with the harrow on the lift.

Should have built it on a base board :

That comes out at 32 1/2 feet or 9.9metres

Drilling and baling would be two of the best applications for a CVT. The ability to precisely control the forward speed while keeping PTO speed constant allows the operator to go a quickly as the conditions (soil type, swarth size etc) allow, getting maximum efficiency out of the tractor. I have often been in the situation baling where I could go a little faster with the baler, but the next step on the 3 speed powershift is too much.

Scraping yards and putting out bales of hay with a bale spike ;D

:D :D

You just send her over to me and I'll deal with her :D

After someones suggestion about military workshop stuff in markys vegetables, I found this on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Resin-Figure-KIT-1-35WWII-machine-tool-3-SET_W0QQitemZ6033237778QQcategoryZ70109QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Keep your tongues in!

About barrels, you can get very small diameter solid half round Plastruct, that you could stick around a suitable cylinder as ribs to make a good looking drum, when painted it should look the part.