Stabliofarmer

I started to develop one with the swb, but came to a stop when I realised a kit really needs doors and a bulkhead too as they're often missing, and there's alot of variation in the bulkhead/windscreen. May get back to it before the spring.

I'm impressed by the quality of those Joe! I'd imagined anything FLA rubber printed being a horrible stringy mess but they look fantastic

Interesting, the stuff I'd seen was about £140 for 500g so that seems a bargain!

Looks great Sean, have the new parts for the printer arrived? I looked at the printable rubber and decided it was cheaper to buy silicone, casting rubber and pigment, create a mould and cast the tyres than to print a single set in rubber. But obviously I have to look to the most profitable option. Will be interesting to see how the printable rubber performs if you do get some!

Really nice finish on this one Barry, lovely work!

That is exquisite Barry, a real masterclass in blending modern manufacturing techniques with old school model making. The finished product is well up with the standard we see in Europe!

Really nice work on the bale trailer build Paul, very good paint finish!

They are some really nice castings Andy, proper crisp! I see where you are coming from with the tracks, 3D resin can certainly be brittle.

Great bit of casting there Andy, is there any particular reason you're casting all the links rather than printing a batch, I assume the master pattern is printed?

Looking good Paul, liking the header trailer too!

I also had this book waiting under the tree this year after a quick browse of a lecturers copy back at Uni, really interesting read so far!

Getting the hang of that now Sean! Very nice work on the plough shares, not an easy shape to create

Following up from the paint chipping I had another go with the Vallejo pigments I have. I used a Matt varnish to mix the pigment and it worked much better than anything else I've used. I have used three different rust colours built up with different dilutions of pigment. Overall pleased with the outcome, would like to try and get it looking abit less dry, like it's had an oily rag over it. Will have a experiment with a gloss varnish and report back. Just got the winch rope to put on now, then crack on with a matching pole trailer.

Spurred on by Ferret I've got back to this project. It's sat for a year or so finished in brown paint waiting for me to have a go at the salt weathering technique. There's far more in-depth writeups and videos on this technique but the basic principle is as follows: - Paint model in rust/undercoat colour (brown) - Mist spray water onto the model - Sprinkle salt onto the areas you want flaky paint - Let the salt/water dry back into crystals - Spray the top coat colour on - Once dry use a stiff brush to flake paint away wherever the salt was. It will not have stuck above the salt and therefore flakes off. Below are the photos of the process as I attempted it, including dropping the model midway through paint, good job I'm going for heavily weathered! Base colour on, it sat in this for over a year, which is longer than necessary but the base coat will need a good amount of time to cure. The key ingredients, I used a mix of fine and ground salt. Water was applied with a perfume atomiser style bottle, salt was then sprinkled on where I felt rust would build up, or paint would be most lost. . Green paint applied over the salt. I think this technique must work alot better with an airbrush and very light coats, the reason can be seen below. Overall I was pleased with the outcome but having used a spray can the paint was heavy enough that it absorbed into the salt making it difficult to chip off. With the white metal parts it tended to result in the brown base layer coming off with the green. I guess an etch primer would help this as the plastic parts with plastic primer stayed perfectly.

The level of detail is just astonishing Andy, good to see some progress!

Serious bit of kit when you see it next to everything else Joe, looks like it's on Marge's higher end of the detail level. How's the build quality? That's the only thing that's let the trucks down with parts missing or loose.

That's shaped up nicely Sean, liking the flat bed too

Liking that alot Ted, I'm hoping I can get the weathering on my own N to a similar standard

Been wanting to tinker with this for a while, having got the shelves restocked after the Christmas rush I found some time to make a start this weekend. Unimog U530, a transkit for the Welly Unimog to make it the latest facelift version. New bonnet, bumper, visor, rear tow socket and hopefully a 3 point linkage. This has really pushed my cad skills, far more than the day job to be honest!

Impressive work there Sean, I have to admit I didn't think it would be possible to print them in such big chunks and keep it all square! Bravo

Impressive work so far Ian!

Done well to find classy spec G-Wagon Stan, all the ones I see on Aliexpress are very much 'drug dealer spec'

Tidy work Sean, I'll admit I'm surprised that's printed as well as it has, not a very printer friendly shape but I imagine there's a lot of supports generated to hold it all inplace. Also supprised to hear it's stronger than the filament version, I'd always assumed resin was more brittle/fragile. Good to hear though!

Normally you use a curing station, basically a big uv lamp with a turntable infront of it. Tends to be 5 minutes cure each side

Sounds good so far Sean, remember to cure them eventually though. Even though they feel hard to the touch from what I understand without a good cure they'll start to melt/disintegrate from the inside out leaving you with a gloopy mess months down the line.