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Ask Scaledown Models


Andy

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If you have a query or problem regarding a Scaledown Model, post here. Nigel will try to respond to queries when he has time, but if any of you other Scaledown enthusiasts know the answer or can help, by all means post your own solutions.

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I have a pair of Scaledown 14x30 wheels which I want to paint white to go on a Ford 5000. I have Humbrol #22 gloss white, but it doesn't seem to want to "take" to the metal.

What am I doing wrong, and what should I actually be doing to get the best results?

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Hello, have you washed & rinsed them, mould release agent is always present on parts such as these & will not accept paint, white is especially a poor coverer (as is yellow), a white primer may be advisable applied first. 'hope this helps. Humbrol does tend to be on the thin side, especially in this heat! Nigel.

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Thanks Nigel!

From where I am now (shabby paint job) how do I get back to the metal and start again?

If (when!) I get another pair (or three), do I use ordinary soap & water to wash them prior to priming them?

The other question I have relates to tidying up the edges (between the studs where the centres meet the rims). What are the right tools to use, and what technique tips would you give?

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Hello, paint/varnish stripper or cellulose thinners/gunwash etc on metal (KEEP WELL AWAY FROM PLASTICS & your bare flesh/eyes/lungs).

An emery board or nailfile will clean up any rough egdes of the bare metal.

Hot soapy water is fine then hot rinse will help speed drying again, though not a problem of late with this heat.Regards Nigel.

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  • 2 years later...

Super glue doesn't seem to work too well for these.  I (and most people I would think) generally use an epoxy resin glue like Araldite. 

It is a good idea to wash all the parts to start with to ensure there is no mould release agent/grease/dirt on them which might affect the paint and file/emery any rough edges on the castings.  Small parts like handles and levers are often easiest painted before fixing (they may be inaccessable when fitted).  Most of it is easier to paint if you part assemble into sections ie. skid unit, axle, bonnet etc, especially where for instance the skid unit and bonnet are a different colour.  Obviously you paint wheels before fitting tyres, and before fitting them to the model. 

The secret is not to rush it.  They all come with clear instructions.  Do a dry fit (without glue) on each part to check the fit before you glue it.  Support the part while the glue sets if necessary, and just assemble a bit at a time, leaving the glue to set before fitting the next part (most of Nigels models can be made in a series of sub assemblies so you can work on one whilst the glue sets on another).

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WE have been marketing a rubberised super-glue for these for almost 10 years now which is ideal whereas std.superglue goes brittle in time and doesn't fill gaps so well. It also takes a few more seconds to go off giving you a tad longer to check alignment,....fantastic stuff to have around the house too.

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Is this on sale for Spalding Nigel ???

I could do with some of that I reckon...

Also.. as this is 'Ask Nigel'

When oh when oh when will you PLEASE make me an MF165  ??? :'( :-*

Oh... and an MF240 too  ;D

and one for me to nigel, your superb range is lacking something terrible in the beloved reds mate ;):D :D

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  • 2 years later...

Nigel is there any chance of a Ford 4000 or 4600 coming on stream in 1/32. They seem to be always over shadowed by the 5000 & other tractors in there power range like the DB990 & MF 165. If you done one, me and plenty more lads would buy  them im sure cause no model manufactor has even given them a tought & they were Fords best sellers!

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Yes I would buy a Ford 4000 my favourite tractor of all time  :)

Thats good to hear Mike. Glad we share the same views. There is plenty Ford fanatics out there like ourselfs that would love a 4000 or 4600 in any scale realy. 1/32 would be fantastic tough. Id say 75% of farmers that ran Fords all there life had a 4000 or 4600 at some stage.  :)
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