catkom3

Just a suggestion but alter your settings, Top right and chose Super Quality then scroll down and check the box to add a brim, glue stick would be handy then print it again, should be spot on then. Regards Joe.

I see the thing now, you might like to print that again, Are you useing Cura as your slicer, ?? Regards Joe.

Cheers Gavin, I was just wondering if a Carbon fibre filament might handle that job a bit better, never tried that yet but I believe it is higher temperature so might make a difference, There is a group on Facebook who might have the answere, but asking there will return as many helpful wrong answeres as helpful correct answeres, https://www.facebook.com/groups/669068986490743 Regards Joe.

Interesting print Gavin. the lower fingers look like they might be spot on but the top ones look thinner that might be why they have curled up, What filament did you use, and what is that thing actualy called on Thingiverse, as I'd like to see what the end result should look like. Regards Joe.

Farmmodels nl do this one which I think is actually Artisan32 weight, so Mandy might have them https://www.farmmodels.nl/20754-Frontgewichten-set-van-22-gewichten-gewicht-drager-02-(-04402)- Regards Joe.

Changeing settings for TPU is a pain, But when you try it make absolutely certain you go into Cura settings and disable RETRACTIONS or it will look like a ball of steel wool, it is also really hard to remove from the build plate especially the new textured ones on the Ender 3 Pro, Funnily enough after reading your earlier reply I did go watch a tyre making tutorial, It could take some time, Meanwhile I finally got the hydraulic rams for my "Hooglosser" Araldited and fixed in place, Reckon if AT&T or MarGe don't do one I'll take a crack at it myself, only started it on Christmas eve ah the joy's of being retired, Regards Joe.

You'll need to get yourself a spool of black TPU and have a go at doing tyres they do look good but are a bit shiney though a quick spray of black Silicone rubber makes them look more realistic, And I'll need to take another crack at tyres after James mentioned never actually drawing a circle but rotating a cross section, last tutorial I watched I could not understand how they were round but never made a circle. Regards Joe. PS TPU normally sold in half kilo's.

Printing round objects can be tricky Sean, printing them standing like that would give the best results but make sure you have "brim" enabled or they might topple over, You might want to soak your magnetic bed in hot soapy ( Fairy Liquid ) water and remove the old glue or you will get failed prints from the uneven surface, very impressive work on the tyres. Regards Joe.

Ah right cheers Gav, But at long last Creality have started putting a new design of extruder on their printers, so all new printers after the Ender 3 Pro now has a flexible compatible extruder, The extruder was the problem as the gap between the toothed brass wheel and the opening to the Bowden tube was slightly to wide allowing the filament to squish out rather than be forced down the tube. Regards Joe.

Ooh an Ender 3 S1, have fun Gavin, be good for all the repetitive parts on your Beet harvesters like the grills etc, Regards Joe.

Yes Ultimaker Cura. I'm useing Version 4.11.0 I'm not up gradeing to 4.13.1 yet as it has to many new features I don't want right now, I imagine that will be the version you now have. Regards Joe.

Sorry Sean I thought you were alraedy useing Cura, yes there are loads of settings in Cura thankfully most never need changeing, But now your getting familiar with what your printer is capable of you might like to print a couple of test prints, Simple little pieces but difficult for a 3D printer to print well, the little cube should be dead straight and dead square the wee boat ( benchy ) has curves and right angles plus holes and tubes hard for a printer to replicate fathfully, When you download the .stl files they will open straigh into Cura where you can either print them direct or save to your 3D file, Cube https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3189377/files Benchy https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4164071/files Regards Joe

Yes James the little accessories you can knock out in CAD then print off is amazeing, I just knocked up two L shaped item's which will come in handy for holding large square flat panels till the Araldite sets simple little things but with four recesses in each I can glue in Neodinium magnets to make them magnetic clamps, One of the guy's on the French forum sketched up round drums so he could create corrugated iron roof panels, The possibilities are end less, and cheap. Regards Joe.

Just seen this on Facebook, Over 300HP, Regards Joe.

Also depends on your setting for your mouse Barry you can scroll slowly or quickly if you want. Regards Joe.

Well I never, I've been useing Henry's site for years, never noticed that before as I always use my scroll wheel, unless I want to go up or down really quickly. Regards Joe.

I recently got 1.2mm and 1.4mm brass screws from the guys at Cornwall boats, and I know you like makeing your own planking. But Wood effect filament is really nice it has a semi rough finish plus you could sketch it up to the exact size to fit your trailers platform, could be printed as individual planks or as a complete piece. Regards Joe.

That's turned out really well Sean, Very impressed, Reckon pin diameter would be a bigger issue than hole diameter. Regards Joe.

Proper job, well done that man, the World is now your Oyster, there is a setting for custom supports on the left of screen looks like steps. Regards Joe.

Be very careful when removeing while still warm, It is extremely easy to warp prints when still warm I've done it a few times, If you do warp anything try placeing it on the heated bed with a weight on it then crank the temperature up to 60 that might flatten it out again. Regards Joe.

This is how I would have printed your parts, I'mglad you are now up and running but there is a lot to take in, easy for me to say as I've now been at it 7 years and on my third printer, There is another down side to printing everything at once, you will have a helluva job getting all that mass of plastic off your print bed, you can obviously remove the magnetic print bed but doing that to often will increase the need to level your bed again, Anyway as promised a photo of how I would have printed your part's. Regards Joe.

It is a steep learning curve for sure all new terminology etc, but you will get there been better if there was an ios slicer, but such is life, When your in Cura you can use the Preview button Top centre, that will let you see if there is a brim or skirt or raft, most flat print like yours should not need any, you only need one or other of them to print tall thin things, like the round rollers I did recently 8ml diameter 72ml tall defo needed a brim on them. Regards Joe.

I forgot to submit that after editing it, Am I right thinking you are useing Cura as your slicer, Regards Joe.

Looking good almost, what you should have on that bed is the parts you sketched up, What I see there is all the parts with a very substantial brim around them already, no wonder your prints are takeing so long, and useing three times as much filament, I'm in the middle of a print right now but once it's finished I'll print a stand alone object with no brim so you can see what it looks like, If you like you can easily run that through Meshmixer which will separate all those parts into individual parts.?? Regards Joe.

Looking good almost, what you should have on that bed is the parts you sketched up, What I see there is all the parts with a very substantial brim around them already, no wonder your prints are takeing so long, and useing three times as much filament, I'm in the middle of a print right now but once it's finished I'll print a stand alone object with no brim so you can see what it looks like, If you like you can easily run that through Meshmixer which will separate all those parts into individual parts.?? PS, this is what we get when clicking on your video link, ??????? Regards Joe.