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White Metal Soldering?


Ferret90

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I thought I would have a go at building my south eastern finecast allchin traction engine. I bought it not thinking of how I was to actually stick it all together.  There seem to be a lot of glues which are designed to stick white metal but after my past experiences with a scaledown fordson I decided to have a go at low melt soldering. I did a bit of research on model railway forums and found there seems to be a lot of mystery surrounding white metal soldering, many people saying how easy it was to end up with just a melted pool of metal, so hopefully this will inspire a few people to have a go.  
I have never really done any soldering before apart from the odd wire here and there so I decided to buy a decent temperature controlled iron instead of using my Lidl one. I went for an atten 938d 60w iron. The idea is the solder will melt at 70 degrees and the castings around 200 so the iron can be set between the two. The advantage of having a higher watt iron is that it will heat up in a few seconds and will have enough power to deliver the heat quickly without the tip cooling and having to be held on the metal longer, heating the casting up and melting everything. Most tips supplied with the iron are rounded which gives a small area of contact And not much heat transfer so I ordered a chisel tip as well.

as for the flux, I’m using Fry’s Powerflow paste instead of a liquid one. I watched a man on YouTube building a finecast kit who recommended it. This apparently makes it easier when holding things together and can be wiped off with a damp cloth. I am using Carr’s low melt 70 degree solder, which is not cheap but seems to work. 
Cleaning the castings seems to be the key, I cleaned them with water and then used some fine grade sand paper to remove the oxidation before soldering. Not sure if this is the best way to do it?  
I first had a go with some scrap white metal I had where I joined a little toolbox to a round spacer. I stuck them with the flux and got a bit of solder on the tip and it worked rather well. I had the iron set to 200 and couldn’t melt the metal but was a good temperature for the solder. I tried pulling it apart but is has properly stuck them together, much better than glue. To be honest it was quite simple and not as difficult as it is made out to be.ECFA9E7A-1852-4983-A359-E57F46FA4198.thumb.jpeg.d2e33e8305832bb451a6c71d19a4a4d1.jpegafter a bit of practice I decided to have a go on the kit. I stuck a small rod into the chimney and this is the result...ECD42D18-DB0C-4314-BA99-CFE59CBCDFF2.thumb.jpeg.d2192879e72d6a68760e0b7e6b77f14a.jpegB48C4964-C134-40D4-8083-CE89A84413CE.thumb.jpeg.aeded4ef05c3ea7439fb2bd24f9c1746.jpegI didn’t use much solder for this but it is really stuck , so much  more effective than glue. 
I think this is the way to go and would be really interested to hear weather anyone has done this before or any tips. In my eyes it is a complete game changer when it comes to scaledown models etc , would be good to inspire some of you to have a go, it’s rather satisfying 

i found these guides really helpful...

https://www.dccconcepts.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/SOLDERING-part-3-2019.pdf
 

https://www.gaugeoguild.com/manual/01_5_1_soft Soldering.pdf

 

i will keep you posted on my progress, so far so good, looking forward to getting on with the kit once I have got my head Round the utterly baffling instructions:wacko:6EC2F952-BD66-44C1-9690-FA9D5EDB0A3C.thumb.jpeg.78806834531cdcc4d0c8b1224d106432.jpeg

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Thanks for that Ted, a very useful insight into soldering. Like you, it's not something that I've done much of but I'd like to be more proficient at it, so i think a better iron seems to be the way to go. Certainly inspired me to give it a try, keep us updated on your progress;)

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17 hours ago, 844john said:

Thanks for that Ted, a very useful insight into soldering. Like you, it's not something that I've done much of but I'd like to be more proficient at it, so i think a better iron seems to be the way to go. Certainly inspired me to give it a try, keep us updated on your progress;)

Yes I definitely think the iron is the key, I would like to re do some old scaledown builds I did with glue which are falling apart, not sure about contamination from the glue and the solder but I think that’s something to look at when I’m a bit better at it.hope to get some more done soon, just trying to lay out the kit and make sense of it :)

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Not something i have tried before, but like the extra info you have supplied as i really fancy a scaledown kit ,the tef20, and i have another white metal implement kit already not started it yet , and was pondering how to fix it anyway, i can lead plumb/solder to a degree, as we used to do it at work when i first started so hopefully it cant be much different going by your review , only difference would be tue electric iron, i used to use a hand held one heated on a big gas ring 

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10 hours ago, Stabliofarmer said:

Some very interesting information Ted, very much looking forward too seeing the progress of the Engine, can't beat a good traction engine, although its got to be a McLaren or Fowler for me. The finescast kits certainly look like very good quality representations.

I rather like burrells myself, hoping to base it on one near me, well the colour scheme. Going for green and a bit of weathering. They seem to be fairly accurate just a lot of filing required haha

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On 11/23/2020 at 9:36 PM, SPN said:

I have that kit as well, so I'm going to be watching this build with interest.

I hadn't considered solder as I've had no problems with glue on my Scaledown kits

Looking forward to seeing how it comes together

Look forward to seeing your build, they are lovely kits, I think it just depends on the glue, I had some scaledown glue which seemed to be good, but I found myself glueing more than just the model, just didn’t get on with it.:) I think it would be handy on the little parts, not sure how easy they would be to solder

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  • 2 years later...

After re reading this thread to remember how to do it, I’m having another crack at soldering. I’m trying it on an old scaledown model which is a lot easier ( especially with instructions thank you Zac ) which should be a bit simpler the traction engine I started this topic on, of which I have progressed no further and is now back in its box. Nevertheless here is a start on the tractor…1316A95B-887A-4F15-866A-956A40D34F95.thumb.jpeg.14ad806b82e3bef2897fe17ef4a7558c.jpegThe two sides of the main casting and rear together…

B10BEB56-E9D9-401D-B178-A503F2356FF4.thumb.jpeg.f7f576f1666f7e16fa0cb875c9b29081.jpegThe iron, flux and metal

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I have finally managed to solder an entire model together. A scaledown te20, a much simpler build than the fordson and the traction engine which are still very much work in progress! Hopefully now I have a better understanding of how to solder white metal I can work up to the traction engine. The main thing I’ve learnt is the joins must be completely clean and unoxidised to form a strong bond. It is also easy to lose detail with big blobs which can be filed off if needs be however I am not that patient  with a file. All in all in my opinion it seems to be a much better alternative to glue and it shouldn’t need resticking together in ten years time. It just takes a lot longer…..1E59BF27-9C6E-4E4D-86D0-6F5CED750319.thumb.jpeg.df5aeba8bdaae832e0a26b5bcb0435d6.jpegD2879B36-A575-4C2F-BD6F-1C4E056EBAB2.thumb.jpeg.76aa83c3b8cd07d4a9a61f739edbe369.jpeg62273C91-77EC-4697-A9B6-6312CAFB43CD.thumb.jpeg.642a9683a57d2ff1b25571ad64aac429.jpegD01F7B7E-8F34-496A-8978-78EFBD9F5C29.thumb.jpeg.7c455487e9d24526d112aff439b31065.jpeg

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  • 2 weeks later...

Started progress again with the major, planning a Bettinson tricycle conversion. I am now using a chisel tip on the soldering iron and I wish I’d done it earlier. Im running the iron at a much lower temperature and the heat transfer is immediate…IMG_8258.thumb.jpeg.264c4b6a682050c5c1f7461ee9b84585.jpegIMG_8274.jpeg.8b4a0f7d92227b2559fa4724e44711bf.jpeg

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On 7/27/2023 at 7:58 PM, Ferret90 said:

Thank you John , I’ve never really understood the row crop tractor and what advantage it would have over a normal tractor or what it’s use would be

No it's a bit of a strange thing alright think they were built in the Lincolnshire area so must have been for some sort of crop but like you say don't know what advantage they would have been over a normal tractor 

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E63367E1-45C8-454F-8A24-FBF99DF70D73.thumb.jpeg.03e5c9929ae38f2c2b2fa179f889db83.jpeg7961C26D-9F77-423E-9AAC-8BE15D1D8129.thumb.jpeg.1083eb6a2045cd74adfc84e4c3295ec6.jpegEC98F7F1-9A0D-4440-9308-297377C28F4C.thumb.jpeg.a156c84af01d6784e020fe6f47ae3abc.jpegBA681051-A16A-4087-8E4D-6638396002EA.thumb.jpeg.e288cb0938738555899bcaa664703bc8.jpeg


Finished it finally. 

On 7/29/2023 at 6:55 PM, jmd said:

No it's a bit of a strange thing alright think they were built in the Lincolnshire area so must have been for some sort of crop but like you say don't know what advantage they would have been over a normal tractor 

All I can think is it would have a great turning circle John!

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  • 1 month later...

A scaledown Fordson standard N in the making. Nearly there with it just the brass steering rods and smaller parts. I made this up a few years ago when I was less experienced , and as a result it was rather bodged with many parts being glued upside down and bits of my finger stuck to it. A bit of paint stripper and I had a nearly new kit. I must say the attention to detail and accuracy in these kits as always is unlike any other model. You cannot even compare a UH , Marge etc alternative made from chinesium and assembled by underpaid workers
The question now is colour…IMG_8797.thumb.jpeg.0b608b45fa07dbca4d848afe6ec9123c.jpeg

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Completed my scaledown field Marshall… I’m now using 100 degree solder as it seems to be stronger, as well as a new tip which has made all the difference. Still not sure about the Fry’s Powerflow flux I am using , seems to leave a milky residue which cannot be removed with flux remover, brake cleaner, petrol or paint stripper…

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