The peculiar world of 3D printing. Printers and CAD in a world of Craft Knifes and Pencils.

[Stabliofarmer]

I might as well start the topic I've spoken about in the purchases topic. If admin want to do the fancy thing where they move posts to different threads then I think what was discussed in the purchases topic would make a nice start to this one. 

Anyhow, in the mean time... 

Printer 

Printing

Printed wheels

Edited October 5, 2021 by Stabliofarmer

[Tractorman810]

right thats it , brains a tad frazzled now , not got round to the scaling just yet, some bits are still locked as all i have is the free one for now, but i am encouraged ,it seems easy enough  so far. think my next effort will be some wheel rims i think,test some curves 

[Farmbritains]

On 1/27/2022 at 9:33 PM, catkom3 said:

That would be good Sean, I bought a hundred wee bags of dessicant when I bought my first printer 7 years ago but in all honesty I've had very few problems with moisture, To get your filament to feed through the extruder you need to tweek the end a little to straighten in so that it goes in square, That is when you notice it's gone brittle, But I found if you cut 10cm or so off the end the rest of the spool was ok, PS there is always a bag of dessicant in the vacuum sealed bags new filament comes in, Also check out Youtube for tutorials on how to level the bed on the printer your thinking of getting as strangely 3D printing is very similar to brick laying, the print is only ever as good as the first layer you only need do it 2 / 3 times a year.

Regards

Joe.

I used to own 4 plastic injection machines, damp was always a problem as it will turn the moulded part matt and often leave white stains within the finished item, I had to run heaters to dry the plastic before sending it through any of the machines, when I moved to a newer unit with a decent floor and insulated walls and roof, it was certainly less of an issue and heating the whole building was a lot less than before so I did exactly that  and damp was no more of an issue.  A lot more comfortable to work in as well,  thicker concrete and a decent layer of poly floor paint also helps but can be expensive.  If your floor is knackered and cracked you will always have damp issues.   

[smithy]

1 hour ago, Tractorman810 said:

right thats it , brains a tad frazzled now , not got round to the scaling just yet, some bits are still locked as all i have is the free one for now, but i am encouraged ,it seems easy enough  so far. think my next effort will be some wheel rims i think,test some curves 

Well done Sean ,look good from here 

[catkom3]

2 hours ago, Tractorman810 said:

right thats it , brains a tad frazzled now , not got round to the scaling just yet, some bits are still locked as all i have is the free one for now, but i am encouraged ,it seems easy enough  so far. think my next effort will be some wheel rims i think,test some curves 

That's a very canny piece of work Sean, You might have a tricky time doing wheels / tyres I've seen tutorials of them being done, But you need to use very different settings for those flat pieces  are fairly straight forward but doughnut shapes with evenly space tread pattern is something else, I'll maybe get round to it one day as I'd love to be able to reproduce Titan Dunlop LSW 1400's.

Regards

Joe.

[catkom3]

On 11/21/2021 at 7:07 AM, 844john said:

Well, it’s arrived Joe, just have to wait until Christmas now and hope that she can get to grips with it. She’s certainly been watching plenty of videos on 3D printing, which has confirmed what I’ve long feared....I’m a technological dinosaur, I just didn’t understand a bloody word of anything that she was watching!😂

How's the 3D printing going John, or should I not ask, 

Regards

Joe.

[Tractorman810]

little more last night, how much of this would show in the printing i have no idea,same with the holes in the parts as well.so i could be wasting my time with all that ? 

[catkom3]

Funnily enough I was just thinking the same about your sketch's last night how they would print, I have printed steps for a tractor cab with holes only 1mm in diameter and they came out perfect, But I was also thinking you would probably be mainly makeing part to fit in with your period display so mostly thing a similar size to that trailer so I reckon you would maybe be better getting a resin printer, be interesting to see what James has to say.

Regards

Joe.

[Stabliofarmer]

I would probably suggest a resin printer is the more suitable option if you're aiming to make things like that, pheraps the Elegoo Saturn rather than the Mars as it can print bigger objects. The firewood processor I did has a number of holes all sub 1mm diameter, some over 10mm long that all printed perfectly. You're bigger issue, and I suspect you would experience it with a filament or resin printer is such flat thin parts will want to warp, hopefully only marginally but just something to be weary of. 

[Tractorman810]

i have done all the holes a standard 1mm mainly to make rods ect easier if i do print it .having spoken to someone with a filament printer, it will do 1mm holes and bolts like this, so for now i think thats what will arrive when i do it, which is a way of yet,the cash is here and ready, its just a be sure i can do what i want with it.,the only upright parts as such are the two on the rear of the trailer, which i could cut off and use plastrut if i had to i guess , the rest is relatively flat . that said i can add stilts to say the chassis where its not flat, just cut them off after .

[844john]

On 1/29/2022 at 9:09 PM, catkom3 said:

How's the 3D printing going John, or should I not ask, 

Regards

Joe.

She’s getting to grips with it thanks Joe, I took one look at it and decided to stick with my graph paper and pencil🙈

[Tractorman810]

On 2/3/2022 at 5:50 AM, 844john said:

She’s getting to grips with it thanks Joe, I took one look at it and decided to stick with my graph paper and pencil🙈

if a old duffer like me can do it john, sure you could, yes its a learning curve, but its do able i must say. am pretty happy with the software at the mo, seems nice and easy. being the free version i only get two designs, so i have been practicing  the options ,then wiping it clean and trying again, but a bit more each time, mainly nice simple shapes for to get a hold of it,whilst trying more complicated bits . a few bits i cant get right ,but every now and then i get it,which is annoying as i have no idea what i did different to the other attempts, which amuses the wife no end with my choice of words. other key is making the parts sectional,

1 so they print easily, without the need to add supports ect

2nd choosing what bits cant be printed so will be plastrut add ones

been discussing the printer and have the dosh sat here,so it may get here earlier than i thought,time will tell,but for consistancy on chassis, and main build parts every time this is certainly the way to go i recon.

 this is the latest one, which is now done to true 1/32 of the brochure, a ransomes or pettit  (both identical)  6 ton trailer, with grain top, with luck the sides will work as well

[smithy]

Well done you old Duffer😂😂 

[Tractorman810]

9 hours ago, smithy said:

Well done you old Duffer😂😂 

i certainly feel old doing this stuff, apparently i was told by the 6 year old granddaughter that they do that at school when she saw me doing that design,  shes already printed a cat apparently 😀😀😀

[catkom3]

It now looks like affordable hand held 3D scanners are almost available.

 

Regards

Joe.

[Tractorman810]

few more hours today, working out support legs, sectioning it down , chassis sorted, not sure the system that opens the rear can be printed, but looking into it just in case i can.also started a silage top for it as well. hopefully tomorrow i am looking to order the printer 

[SPN]

Did you make the body rectangular or tapered Sean?

Tipping trailers are always an inch or so wider at the back so the load runs free and doesn't get stuck.

I remember someone building a rectangular one (1:1) when I was a nipper, and then finding out the hard way why bought ones had a taper.

[Tractorman810]

29 minutes ago, SPN said:

Did you make the body rectangular or tapered Sean?

Tipping trailers are always an inch or so wider at the back so the load runs free and doesn't get stuck.

I remember someone building a rectangular one (1:1) when I was a nipper, and then finding out the hard way why bought ones had a taper.

this ones straight, when i scaled it down it was about 1.5 - 2 mm wider at the rear, but after a age trying to get the sides to the right angle i gave up. sure it can be done , just had the better of me today. 

[Tractorman810]

hell,i didnt realise that i had done so many parts. have broken it down to hopefully make printing easier, only bit i am worried about is the main body , guess only a test print will do may need some supports added if the first goes wrong? first pics got some test wheels ,which i wont print for now

[catkom3]

You probably wont need supports from what I see, you only really need them when an object stretch's out past 50 degrees I think it is all your parts look to be flat on the build plate, I don't know the setting on your slicer but on mine I would only import one of any piece into my slicer the right click on it and multiply it, like you have 13 hinge pieces there I would just use one then add 12 more, keep that in mind for future use, amazing what can be done in the slicer.

Regards

Joe.

[Tractorman810]

1 hour ago, catkom3 said:

You probably wont need supports from what I see, you only really need them when an object stretch's out past 50 degrees I think it is all your parts look to be flat on the build plate, I don't know the setting on your slicer but on mine I would only import one of any piece into my slicer the right click on it and multiply it, like you have 13 hinge pieces there I would just use one then add 12 more, keep that in mind for future use, amazing what can be done in the slicer.

Regards

Joe.

get you there joe, i just took it apart to see how many bits there was 😀 i will get those suports of maybe, as the chassis is one part, so i recon it will need them otherwise how will it start the first bits without drooping, have tried to get everything done in such a way as they all have at least 1 dead flat edge to work / start printing  off,bar the chassis ,hence the supports

[catkom3]

Final we snip of info Sean before you end up pulling your hair out tomorrow wondering why you cannot get the filament to go through the extruder there is a knack to it and this video explains how it's do, You might also like to tweek the first 25ml so the filament is straight rather than bent in a coil because it's been wrapped round the spool for some time.

 

Regards

Joe.

[Tractorman810]

Built and bed levelled, test print no1 underway a cat apparently ?? So far its got as much resemblance to a cat as a bloody elephant does 😆😆😆😆

[catkom3]

Congratulations Sean, Now convert that video into something we can all see, How did it go, was the build reasonably straight forward, and how did you get on with the bed levelling, which unless to remove the magnetic plate frequently  you shouldn't need to do again for quite a while.

Regards

Joe.

Edited February 11, 2022 by catkom3

[catkom3]

It should come out something like this Sean don't worry about what print's look like at the start, Specially if you use a Skirt or a Brim as you'll wonder what the thing is doing, be alright in the end though,

 

Regards

Joe.

[Tractorman810]

seems ok so far, we jsut set it off,then realised that the software is on the sd card as well, so cant pull it now till its done, mind you i had to pop into to work and find my “spare “ usb-c docking station,with sd slot in it, wasnt paying for one when i had it sat in the desk ,also picked up a seperate micro sd card,  once it finishes i will sort out the sclicer software of the card, and position mine,might even get set off overnight,although prob be tomorrow now, its currently 50% done with the test,looks fine,even realised i got gloss finish plastic as well, by accident