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Just now, Kirely said:

Nice result on the Kidds

cheers, a few bits to change, as i want them to be contractors versions, not farm, only small bits, some parts are only for temp widt anyway, like the bars across the top just to space and give me an measuring point .

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3 hours ago, Tractorman810 said:

bit more on the 2 kidds mostly body work ,while i wait for other stuff to arrive, but if all else fails i have a few bits to finish or restart i guess  :D 

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Now that's a shelf filled with good stuff!

Also, good work on the kidds!

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7 minutes ago, alf aphid said:

Thanks all, make no mistake, there are some improvements to be made but a start at least. Just awaiting some syringes turning up before we go again. I need to be a bit quicker next time!

How did you find it mate? Cracking first attempt. I'm finding it cheap enough to get it done off Dave towse who has become a good freind over the years and done all my stuff and quickly and the quality just gets better with him too but I always worry he will stop and I wont have a clue how to do it. I should invest some time into it whilst we are all on lockdown. Hope your safe mate :)

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15 hours ago, Cheshire Farm Models said:

How did you find it mate? Cracking first attempt. I'm finding it cheap enough to get it done off Dave towse who has become a good freind over the years and done all my stuff and quickly and the quality just gets better with him too but I always worry he will stop and I wont have a clue how to do it. I should invest some time into it whilst we are all on lockdown. Hope your safe mate :)

Hi Sam, thank you, it’s ok but a lot of trial and error I will say. Worst thing it the speed at which it sets! When you are learning you like to take things steady, but you can’t !! 

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14 hours ago, Stabliofarmer said:

Interesting, so are you injecting the resin into the moulds? Would be interested to see how you've laid out the moulds to allow for it?

Yes I assumed that was the only real way ! How do you get the resin in the moulds ??

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I just pour it in. Mould design is key, inparticularly how you gate/vent the mould and how you can remove the mould. Most guides for a two part mould use, as it says on the tin, two parts. I try as often as possible to make them one part, and cut the mould to remove the part. For example the below mould is for a wheel rim. It is vented by the one opening, which is on the edge of the rim.

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This opening isn't large enough to extract the part from like it would be for a two part mould. I have therefore cut a split in the mould to widen the opening, but without loosing detail on the part, you just get a very faint line of flash (excess material). To fill the mould I apply pressure with my fingers to either end of the slit and it opens up. I simply pour the resin in and gentely release my grip so the mould closes again.

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Same theory on a more complex shape, this time a sheep. The four legs are used as vents, and one extra vent is added under the chin to remove air from the head. The cuts link all these up so that the sheep can be removed and the resin quickly poured from the same hole.

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Obviously its not always possible and a two part mould is needed, usually I find a slush mould most appropriate. Pour the resin into the female half of the mould, and push the male half in, displaising the resin. Venting is critical here as it is much more likely to introduce air bubbles that need to be able to flow out of the mould.

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Thats interesting james , i have always gone two part moulds, i guess for tyres you would need to go through the centre mould block as well?  I tried mine as a two part and just kept getting bubbles no matter how many gates i put in, so i recon this one could work better 

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would i be right in saying that you dont make the tyres hollow,like a uh rear one of the rim as well? its a solid block with smooth inner rim?  like a scaledown wheel set tyre just slips on . if so that makes way more sence to the method i found online.

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