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Whats on your workbench???


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mmm cant remember the price of the top of my head, and for some reason I cant post a link either as I cant paste anything again??? ,they sell a standard wide wheel with them, but also do 2 or 3 other widths  / versions of front wheels  to fit them to, I recon other wheels could be grafted to fit mind, as they only fit on via a pin with a glued on hub,  

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Made some progress this morning, rear linkage is finished on to the lift rods, have to make some short ones I guess. :D

pu3e.jpg

Also filed and sanded the door on the right away, and removed the steps.

And I made a new pivot point for the front axle, so right now it has the right wheelbase!

w2kb.jpg

vrfi.jpg

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cheers paul

no more pics for the moment  neils , I want to try the roof cover again, just to be sure, think this ones a bit to thick ??? hard to say till I try ,it doesn't really show the roof ribs like I want it to, as per the real ones . also need to sort the side ones , got the clear bit, but so far I have seen 2 or 3 different versions of the surrounds, some all white, and some red at the bottom, and white at the rear upright , which I seem to remember our 165 being, also need to sort the surround on the bonnet, have some red material to use for that though, just needs care full cutting,

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hi sean looking good mate

 

 I always thought it didn't matter how thick the canvas effect was on the 100 series cabs  so long as it had the  right ripples and creases to look like it was canvas

take the britains landrovers of the late 70s early 80s the canvass looking but made out of plastic top looked the part I thought could it not

be made out of resin with the authentic creases might be allot easier to do and accomplish well maybe ? and at 1/32 it would be very hard to replicate the canvas texture

but I cant wait to see it mate

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Maybe something like a UV sealing bag could do the job? Also used that on my Clayson for the dustsack. Maybe spraying it in matte white will do the canvas effect.

 

Lovely to see such cabins, the cabs over here on the 100 series where most of the times simple ones from Sirocco, just like the 135 from my grandpa had. His 175 had a Sekura, that was a lovely and solid cab.

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i have an idea to poss cast them, but I need to get the ripple effect and the drops between the bars first, you can only just see them at present ,need more heat etc I think ,which along with thinner material should sort it.i also fancy doing a delux cab to ,maybe on something bigger like a 185??

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little more done this afternoon, having a few issue with the door, but having just come in to watch something I had a brain wave about a possible idea, so will try that after the prog  if I get time
side cab panels are on, along with the front bonnet /cab cover, cant add the lower screen to it as looking at all the pics I can find, they remove that when a loader fitted to allow the manual tip  mechanism   / hydraulic   controls into the cab with the doors still fitted, which is how I want it to be, just need to trim them level ,side glass is plastic as per real ones and the red material is a waterproof coat material, which seems to glue on fine with plasti weld,
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still very undecided on the cab cover, stuck with the thicker material as I found the thin stuff just ripped/snapped when bent, it also deformed badly with the glue on ,so painted the first attempt up, along with the rear parts, and test fitted it again? ???? what do you think, it isn't in its final position yet,
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so for the canvas you have used a waterproof like pouncho material I take it sean ?? did u die the red on or buy the coat in  that colour ?

that looks bloody brilliant mate in all fairness

 

its a shame u cant cast the frame and make it kit like form mate as that makes me wanna buy a uh one too now

did u use britains rear wings aswell ?

Edited by IH885XLMAN
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the top canvas is just plasti card bent to shape, nothing else, the side parts are a proper red pouncho  material, has a glossy side or a matt side, which I used tried the top again using a .5mm and a .25 mm thick card but it just split and deformed to easy, and went out of shape when glued, so stuck with the .75mm one, only advantage it has really will be once its fixed into place, as it will strengthen the frame no end   , downside I cant get the framework to show through like a real one would,

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i was thinking cpuld u not roll thin plasasine ans that pounch texture on top of the rolled plastersine and place it on the frame carefullt to get the frame showing and cast that if you could harden the plastasine it would have texture and the right creases if the plastasine sheet was thin.enough ?

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Xylon coming along , found the boom holders today , lost them after I took them off so got them fitted , it's not to far of needing paint now , just got to mask off the parts on the arms I don't want painted , easier said than done mind

 

I know where your coming from on that Sean,would liquid mask be easier ,??http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Microscale-Micro-Mask-Liquid-Masking-Tape-1-fl-oz-/131090197716?hash=item1e8595acd4

Regards

Joe.

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On the Dutch forum someone used a balloon in the color of the side capes Sean, worth a try? It's very flexible, so I guess you can do a lot with it.

Gonna search for some pictures of it tonight, then I will see if I can send the pictures off it.

Edit; I got the link over here Sean, it looks really professional

http://www.miniaturenforum.nl/viewtopic.php?f=127&t=7116&p=3728012&hilit=Sirocco#p3728012

Edited by N. van Eekelen
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