I thought this may prove a useful little topic, particularly to start with for those new to modelling and scratchbuilding/converting.
I'll start of with my core tools, and hopefully expand with more specialised tools I have for specific jobs. But for now the basics.
The start point has to be a cutting mat. Without one good clean cuts of card etc are very difficult. I use the self healing types rather than a glass one, just holds the material better meaning less chance of slipping and cutting yourself with a knife. I used an A3 size one for years with no problems, but upgraded to an A2 one as you're not moving the work piece around as much when it's big parts like sides for artic trailers.
An overview of the tools that seem to come out for everyjob.
Measuring Out
This is typically what I'll use to create the initial drawing of the piece I'm making, and then transfer to the plastic and card being cut. A standard HB pencil, with a sharpener on hand as you want a sharp point to keep accuracy, and rubber for the inevitable mistakes (usually it takes a few attempts to get the wheels in the right place on a plan). Compass for drawing said wheels and a set square to keep the cuts at right angles. A steel rule is far better than a plastic ruler for cutting along with a knife as it doesn't cut into the ruler,I have a few rules including 15, 30, 50 and 100cm ones, the 30cm is the go too, do anything, option though.
Cutting
My main weapon of choice for cutting is an 18mm snap off blade. They're a nice size, robust and sit well in your hand, you don't start to get sore fingers from pressing down all the time like with a craft knife. When working with card (which rapidly blunts blades) you quickly snap off and have a fresh sharp blade available again. A pack of 5 blades was £1 at the Range, and there isn't much difference in quality between cheap and expensive blades. I've just replaced my Yellow one with the Red one as after 2 years it was looking rather worn out with most of the rubber grip worn away and the slide mechanism starting to fail.
When accuracy is needed I had an X-Acto craft knife with I think a No. 10 blade. The narrower tip to the blade allows for quick direction changes, where the 18mm just wants to cut straight and true which is usually what I want.
Recently I've upgraded though, all the old school modellers talk of Scalpel blades and indeed they're choice of knife is the Swan Norton Scalpel with a 10a blade. I can see why! The blades are frighteningly sharp and a reasonable price. The handle would take some getting use to if you've always used a craft knife, it's very thin and light.
The only other cutting tool that comes out everytime is a craft knife with a round fine point blade in. This is great for scoring, punching, enlarging parts etc and just an all round handy piece to have.
Handling
Not much in this category for basics. A small set of pliers is always useful for bending, snapping or holding plastic and wire, usually I have a flat pair, and a grip pair with wire cutters in the head.
I increasingly find myself using a pair of tweezers as the detail I try to include increases. Really hand when using plastic weld and you don't end up with finger prints all over small detailed bits.
I've chucked in a set of Tin Snips here as they often end up used. Particularly for working with wire. I use alot of florist wire for pins and bolts etc, and the tin snips give a far better cut than wire snips in pliers. A dedicated set of wire cutters would do the same job, but the tin snips then come in handy if working with thin metal or thick plastic.
Adhesives
Top of the list here is EMA Plastic Weld. A very viscous, flows like water, liquid, that melts a layer of plastic on each component being stuck together, then evapourates leaving the parts chemical bonded. So easy to use, and gives such a strong hold. Not the cheapest in the 57ml bottles but readily available at all model shops. I've just bought a tin of the 500ml version which works out alot cheaper. It should also reduce the tears when you accidentally knock a fresh bottle over and loose half the contents melting your work piece to the table at the same time. We've all done it! I use a small paintbrush to apply, if the jobs bigger a slightly bigger brush is used, equally for tiny pieces a tiny brush.
UHU all purpose is next up. Great for gluing card, and a quid for the 60ml tubes at Poundland.
Also a poundland special, super cheap super runny, super glue, 3 10g packs for a pound. I use this to seal the edges of card before painting. Combined with some UHU it also holds resin really well. But you are better off using a good brand of gel superglue for that.
Finally in this selection I've included Revell Plasti filler. A useful ready mixed filler that is very easy to sand (220 grit sandpaper is the most common grade I use), although anything from 120 to 2000 can be found in the tool box). Simply push abit out of the tube, swirl it about abit to let it aerate, and apply to wherever you're filling, will sand down in as little as an hour. Takes paint we'll and isn't too messy.
So that's the basics in my tool box, will add some more specific tools over time. I hope it's useful/interesting and please add any of your own!
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Stabliofarmer
I thought this may prove a useful little topic, particularly to start with for those new to modelling and scratchbuilding/converting.
I'll start of with my core tools, and hopefully expand with more specialised tools I have for specific jobs. But for now the basics.
The start point has to be a cutting mat. Without one good clean cuts of card etc are very difficult. I use the self healing types rather than a glass one, just holds the material better meaning less chance of slipping and cutting yourself with a knife. I used an A3 size one for years with no problems, but upgraded to an A2 one as you're not moving the work piece around as much when it's big parts like sides for artic trailers.
An overview of the tools that seem to come out for everyjob.
Measuring Out
This is typically what I'll use to create the initial drawing of the piece I'm making, and then transfer to the plastic and card being cut. A standard HB pencil, with a sharpener on hand as you want a sharp point to keep accuracy, and rubber for the inevitable mistakes (usually it takes a few attempts to get the wheels in the right place on a plan). Compass for drawing said wheels and a set square to keep the cuts at right angles. A steel rule is far better than a plastic ruler for cutting along with a knife as it doesn't cut into the ruler,I have a few rules including 15, 30, 50 and 100cm ones, the 30cm is the go too, do anything, option though.
Cutting
My main weapon of choice for cutting is an 18mm snap off blade. They're a nice size, robust and sit well in your hand, you don't start to get sore fingers from pressing down all the time like with a craft knife. When working with card (which rapidly blunts blades) you quickly snap off and have a fresh sharp blade available again. A pack of 5 blades was £1 at the Range, and there isn't much difference in quality between cheap and expensive blades. I've just replaced my Yellow one with the Red one as after 2 years it was looking rather worn out with most of the rubber grip worn away and the slide mechanism starting to fail.
When accuracy is needed I had an X-Acto craft knife with I think a No. 10 blade. The narrower tip to the blade allows for quick direction changes, where the 18mm just wants to cut straight and true which is usually what I want.
Recently I've upgraded though, all the old school modellers talk of Scalpel blades and indeed they're choice of knife is the Swan Norton Scalpel with a 10a blade. I can see why! The blades are frighteningly sharp and a reasonable price. The handle would take some getting use to if you've always used a craft knife, it's very thin and light.
The only other cutting tool that comes out everytime is a craft knife with a round fine point blade in. This is great for scoring, punching, enlarging parts etc and just an all round handy piece to have.
Handling
Not much in this category for basics. A small set of pliers is always useful for bending, snapping or holding plastic and wire, usually I have a flat pair, and a grip pair with wire cutters in the head.
I increasingly find myself using a pair of tweezers as the detail I try to include increases. Really hand when using plastic weld and you don't end up with finger prints all over small detailed bits.
I've chucked in a set of Tin Snips here as they often end up used. Particularly for working with wire. I use alot of florist wire for pins and bolts etc, and the tin snips give a far better cut than wire snips in pliers. A dedicated set of wire cutters would do the same job, but the tin snips then come in handy if working with thin metal or thick plastic.
Adhesives
Top of the list here is EMA Plastic Weld. A very viscous, flows like water, liquid, that melts a layer of plastic on each component being stuck together, then evapourates leaving the parts chemical bonded. So easy to use, and gives such a strong hold. Not the cheapest in the 57ml bottles but readily available at all model shops. I've just bought a tin of the 500ml version which works out alot cheaper. It should also reduce the tears when you accidentally knock a fresh bottle over and loose half the contents melting your work piece to the table at the same time. We've all done it! I use a small paintbrush to apply, if the jobs bigger a slightly bigger brush is used, equally for tiny pieces a tiny brush.
UHU all purpose is next up. Great for gluing card, and a quid for the 60ml tubes at Poundland.
Also a poundland special, super cheap super runny, super glue, 3 10g packs for a pound. I use this to seal the edges of card before painting. Combined with some UHU it also holds resin really well. But you are better off using a good brand of gel superglue for that.
Finally in this selection I've included Revell Plasti filler. A useful ready mixed filler that is very easy to sand (220 grit sandpaper is the most common grade I use), although anything from 120 to 2000 can be found in the tool box). Simply push abit out of the tube, swirl it about abit to let it aerate, and apply to wherever you're filling, will sand down in as little as an hour. Takes paint we'll and isn't too messy.
So that's the basics in my tool box, will add some more specific tools over time. I hope it's useful/interesting and please add any of your own!
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